Can't open fuel level sender - were some glued?

[RobFrost]

Pictures on Pelican Parts show the fuel sender in pieces. A guide says undo the nut at the bottom and take it apart. But I've undone the nut and nothing's coming apart. There appear to be four crimped areas on teh base, which I've gently pried up but it still won't come. Were some of these glued? I'm not sure if this is working as I've never had the tank full yet but there's something hard rattling around loose inside, sounds like a nut so I want to get it out while I'm in there and ensure all is good.

[BILLY BEAN]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Makes more sense to test the sender first. Taking it apart is more likely to damage it . What is "rattling around inside" the fuel sender is likely to be the fuel level float.

[BILLY BEAN]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Makes more sense to test the sender first. Taking it apart is likely to damage it unless you are extremely careful as the fuel level float slides up and down on two very fine wires. What is "rattling around inside" the fuel sender is likely to be the fuel level float.

[Lightweight_911]

.

Here are a couple of pictures of a spare one I dismantled/cleaned last year:






Once you've undone/removed the nut on the bottom & removed the washer, there should be nothing stopping the end from being gently 'prised' off.

However, things can be quite 'gummed up' inside & there can also be corrosion on the central stud so you need to be careful in order not to damage the internals ...

.

[RobFrost]

.

Here are a couple of pictures of a spare one I dismantled/cleaned last year.

Not sure if it really was but it seems the bottom was glued in - but I managed to get the top free. The rogue item which was in there rattling around slid out and dropped on the floor never to be seen again - so I can't say what it was. I was able to find a tiny spot of solder on the floor so maybe that was it. Anyhow, resistance across the two closest terminals is 70 ohms at one end and 7 ohms at the other so I'm going to reassembled and assume it's working for now.