Engine rebuild, experienced/professional advice needed

For you flat four Porsche 912 fanatics

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912uk
Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 11:02 pm

Post by 912uk »

Image

here
Tipi_dwl
DDK addict
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 6:45 pm

Post by Tipi_dwl »

OK, engine rebuild continues. My so called 'friend', who was supposed to fix the busted dowel pin holes on the crank and the flywheel, not only lost them, but lost my nearly new heads from a 'low hour' industrial engine too! Well he got some heads to replace the ones but crank and flywheel is still missing. He promised to compensate me with certain amount, but I will never see the money. Bl00dy w@nkah!

Anyway last summer I drove with a spare engine from around 1962, so maybe it was from 356 B. But I dismantled it to get the crank and the flywheel to be used in my matching numbers block. A Little dissapointment was that this crank was not a counterweigh crank. I started to assemble the engine with new bearings anyway. I checked that the bearings were the same size as the ones in the spare engine. When I put the bottom end to gether I was pleased that the crank was still turning. The dissapointing thing was that there was huge play in the crank bearings. So I ended up opening the case again, cleaning the gasket stuff (what ever you call that). Then I measured the crank too and it was ground to -0,25mm. I wonder how on earth the engine did not show low oil pressure or any sort of excess noise!

Luckily I had good crank from a industrial engine with standard size journals. So I ended up polishing the journals on, it and bolted the connecting rods from the original engine on it. The Flywheel was supposed to be balanced so it should not be very big crime to go ahead with out taking them to machining shop, I hope :oops:

Now I have the case is back together, and the crank is still turning! And with no excessive clearances! One battle won, I hope. Please check my photos, if can spot any mistakes I have possibly made.

The gasket set I had four timing cover gaskets, of which 2 were the same. Of the three different gaskets, the green one seemed the correct one, it only had the oil suction tube opening too small. SHOULD I CUT THIS BIGGER? Am I supposed to put an O-ring over there too, like I have on the photo? Should I use casket compound between the timing cover and the case?

Othervise I put in the new tube type O-rings for the pressure side, that are mentioned in the manual. Should I put also smaller tube type O-ring to the passage which goes to bearing in the timing cover?

I'm left with plenty of regular O-rings and gaskets. Some of the metal gaskets goes to oil pressure switch and to big copper ones to pressure relief valves.

A lot of questions, any advice is highly appreciated! Thanks!
davidppp
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1064
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 9:51 pm

Post by davidppp »

Hello, just saw this.

If you are using the case which had aloose flywheel, did yu check the dimensions of the flywheel main bearing saddle?

I have seen this get badly distorted by hammering with a loose flywheel..if you are lucky this will show up as end float you cannot correct with shims..if you miss it you can plan for a new crank etc again soon.
Oil will squirt out of the bearing and lose pressure and flow..

Kind regards
David
Tipi_dwl
DDK addict
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 6:45 pm

Post by Tipi_dwl »

Yes the case was dimensionally OK from main bearing housing.
Tipi_dwl
DDK addict
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 6:45 pm

Post by Tipi_dwl »

Allrighty then, Engine is back together in one piece, and it's also running! But...there always... It does not rev very well under load! Actually it stalls if throttle is pushed to the floor rapidly. But it pulls up the revs with the gear on neutral, when throttle is pushed moderately.

Spark is good, idle is OK, exept a bit some times it takes some time to settle. I have adjusted the float chambers, should be in the ball park at least, also pre-setting of the carbs is done like instructed here.

There's some differences in the flows between throats, but it should not be this dramatic. I ran these same carbs (Solex 40 PII-4's) and same 123ignition last summer and they worked OK. Too bad I dismantled/cleaned the carbs with new gaskets during the winter. I had done this before, successfully. Almost all the jets were bigger than standard, but as mentioned, they worked well before. Accelerator pump and jets are working, I have not measured the amounts though, nor have I changed the adjustment on them.

I have 86mm pistons/cylinders and cam is from 356B engine, but otherwise it should be stock. Oh well, exhaust header is like the competition ones that are used often in VW engines.

Ignition advance is adjusted by the manual and it is fine. Tomorrow I will try with another coil, althought I don't think it could be the ignition.

The engine does not smoke, atleast not particularly badly when throttle is pushed. It does not drop oil, of which I'm very proud, as both of my previous engines leaked all over the place.

All&all, I'm quite confused, the spark is there and it's get gas, what the hell is wrong![/u]
Tipi_dwl
DDK addict
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 6:45 pm

Post by Tipi_dwl »

The defect was found in the mirror, bathroom mirror that is. I had assembled the pre-emulsifiers 180 degrees the wrong way and that lead to that the main circuits in the carbs were not working at all. Now to the test drive!
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