A little closer to the ground?

shelltoes · Post by **shelltoes** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:19 am

I know there are adjusters up front already, but how far down do they go?
Don’t worry about the handling; I’m just interested in aesthetics here.
What’s the best way to get the front very low basically?
I have a very low VW, so I’m fully aware of all the drawbacks.
Is it like a VW type 3 perhaps?

Thanks.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:52 am

As far as I'm aware, they are really just for fine(ish) adjustment: if my 911 was anything to go by (same system) around about 1- 1 1/2 in ch difference top-to-bottom?

Doesn't really matter though, as you can always turn the arm another spline on the torsion bar, and re-set the adjuster again: i.e. do major adjustment with the torsion bar: ideally so the fine adjuster ends up somewhere near the middle of it's threads, and then final / running adjustments can be made easily knowing there's plenty of thread either way.

The back's not quite so simple though...

shelltoes · Post by **shelltoes** » Sat May 06, 2006 11:45 pm

Thanks, thought so.
The back can stay as it is.
Anyone done it?

fourteener · Post by **fourteener** » Sun May 07, 2006 7:48 am

Barry is correct...adjust with the set-screw. Back end you will be into getting adjustable perches (Bilstiens make some)
There is a rack spacer kit available to help with the steering geometry..no doubt they are easily fabricated

kevster · Post by **kevster** » Sun May 07, 2006 11:03 pm

Ive just lowered mine this weekend after swapping out the struts and it was quite easy.

When you put the torsion bar end caps on (if youve dismantled everything) or if you are just lowering the car you can jack the car up, wheel off then undo the torsion end cap by winding out the adjuster bolt (11mm).

This will undo any tension in the torsion bar. You can then ease the torsion bar end cap/lever off - you may end up pulling the whole torsion bar out but once the end cap is off you can just push the torsion bar back in.

One mine I had a choice of 3 spline positions to slide the end cap back on so that it would fit into the auxillary support housing. If you choose the lower one (as far anti clockwise as poss. - DRIVER SIDE) this will give you the lowest setting, if you choose the highest (as far clockwise as poss) this will give you the highest setting. Once on screw the adjuster bolt back in, this also holds the torsion bar end cap in place as well as adjusting the rotation/height.

To do any final tweaking I found it easier to lower the car (roll back and forth to settle) so that the torsion bar is tensioned and in its natural resting place. Then winding in the adjuster screw will lower the car (turning the end cap anticlockwise - DRIVER SIDE), winding out the adjuster screw will make the car higher pushing the end cap upwards (clockwise - DRIVER SIDE).

You should then roll back and forwards to settle before comparing both sides. Its easier done than said really, I didnt understnad the haynes manual but once I'd experimented all became clear.

You need to check your camber and tracking as these may well have been changed depeneding on how much lowering you do. Also lowering too far will mean you will run out of suspension travel and will be riding on the bump stops - looks cool but wont do the car any good and it will handle like a bag of spuds so do at your own risk!

By rotating the driver side end cap 1 spline anti clockwise and the pax side end cap 1 spline clockwise you will be able to lower the car a significant amount then fine tune with the adjusters.

finished

this was a bit low so I raised it up about 1 inch - tyres clear ok on full lock both ways but my travel is limited. Does anyone know if you can get inserts for lowered 914s?

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon May 08, 2006 11:08 am

Looking mucher

'er now, Kev

Look foward to the pics with the rear done as well

Gilbert '71 T · Post by **Gilbert '71 T** » Mon May 08, 2006 6:03 pm

oh yeah that is low and it looks the business Kev

, good work fella.
I recently swapped my rears to 5-lug, looking back it wasnt that bad a job, you'll have fun. Look forward to seeing your car with the rears done as well.

fourteener · Post by **fourteener** » Mon May 08, 2006 6:28 pm

kevster wrote:Does anyone know if you can get inserts for lowered 914s?

What you want is lowered spindles which involves removing the welded on spindle collar and welding it on slightly higher -loads of work and a safety issue for DIY.

shelltoes · Post by **shelltoes** » Mon May 08, 2006 8:41 pm

Now that is what i am talking about!!!!
That looks great!!
Thanks a lot!

kevster · Post by **kevster** » Mon May 08, 2006 10:46 pm

It was a long day but worth it in the end - took a while to wipe the smile off me face

Yes Gilbert, cant wait to get the rears done, 914-6 discs ordered and then Im gonna whip off the hubs and get them re-drilled and studs put in - is that thr route you went? Should be able to find an engineering shop locally that can do the work.

Shelltoes - you can't be that far from me? - any probs with doing yours give me a shout or if you are passing through brighton look me up, Im in the members forum. Lowered spindles would be nice but sound expensive and appreciate not a DIY job unless you've got some serious kit in your shed - Barry could probably knock some up in an afternoon in his garage of mechanical trickery

Gilbert '71 T · Post by **Gilbert '71 T** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:49 am

kevster wrote:Yes Gilbert, cant wait to get the rears done, 914-6 discs ordered and then Im gonna whip off the hubs and get them re-drilled and studs put in - is that thr route you went? Should be able to find an engineering shop locally that can do the work.

I got a pair of these, had to send cores, which i won on ebay and had them sent direct to Eric at PMB. thought they were good valuehttp://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/i ... 355564.htm and then had a brand new pair of 914/4 discs that i'd already bought drilled to 5x130.

I passed on my old hubs to Barry for him to play with, but they're now back with me as he no longer needs them

, if you don't want the car immobile for too long you are very welcome to them for the price of the postage, then you could do the swap in a day

when you do the job, do everything you've read on replacing bearings (freezing etc.) and the job will go really easily, the only 'orrible bit is setting up the calipers after relpacing the pads.

kevster · Post by **kevster** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:54 am

Hi Darren,

That would be really useful to have some hubs to get machined while the car is still useable. If you can ship them that would be great - how do you want me to pay for the shipping - I have a paypal acct?

Thanx for the hub info - I may take mine to a machine shop locally but show them the pics of the link and see how much they can do them for.

CHeers, Kevin

Gilbert '71 T · Post by **Gilbert '71 T** » Tue May 09, 2006 10:03 am

pm me your address Kevin and I'll get them off in the next day or so

paypal or chq for the postage will be ok, I'll let you know how much once they've been sent if that's alright

kevster · Post by **kevster** » Tue May 09, 2006 10:24 pm

Many thanks for that Darren - you a star

shelltoes · Post by **shelltoes** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:14 am

What tyre size you got at the front, Kevster please?