Storage Queries

[DarthMJH]

I have just put my 73T in a storage facility for the winter. As part of the price they move the car every 2 weeks to stop tyre flat spots, and they also run the car for 10 mins every 2 weeks.

Is 10 minutes enough time to warm the car up as I know it takes quite sometime to get it up to temperature. Is this doing more damage than good? Should I ask for it to be run longer, or not at all?

Also with regards to flat spots on tyres, I went to another storage facility and they said it’s a myth, and only really affects crossply tyres. It would take a year or so to get a flat spot on modern tyres. Do you think they are correct?

Cheers

[KS]

Tyres definitely get flat spots, especially when the temperature drops. If I don't drive the 914 for two or three weeks, the Dunlops take about 10 miles to smooth out...

[jwhillracer]

I think 10 mins would do a 911 more harm than good, just increase the condensation in the oil system.

JW

[anglophone1]

Angus at Greatworth is setting up a storage facility - it looks very good- I am keeping Tango 914 there- perhaps he can come in with some expert knowledge?

[DarthMJH]

I think 10 mins would do a 911 more harm than good, just increase the condensation in the oil system.

JW

I was thinking that and that's what I am worried about. How long do you think it should be run for, or not at all whilst it is in storage ?

[jwhillracer]

I think 10 mins would do a 911 more harm than good, just increase the condensation in the oil system.

JW

I was thinking that and that's what I am worried about. How long do you think it should be run for, or not at all whilst it is in storage ?

Probably either not run at all, or just turned over on the starter once a month or so - I would bow to superior advice on this.

JW

[Sam]

If it’s stored indoors for a few months don’t start it at all.

The corrosive condensates produced on startup won’t burn off with a 10 minute idle, probably more like 15 minutes of proper driving.

Brim the tank (so no corrosive water vapour can form). Stick it on stands or pump the tyres up super hard (to avoid those flat spots) and disconnect the battery then don’t touch it until you’re ready for a proper drive.

[911hillclimber]

For 30 years I've stored mine in my garage attached to the house.
This is from Oct to March period. Roll the car a few times, never start the engine, disconnect the batteries, do nothing else.

Oil change every year in March, so run the old oil to hot temp (Far More than 10 mins), drain, fresh in, run to set level etc.
Wash n wax and it is ready for the year.

Flat spots such as they are roll-out over about 50 miles or less.

[BILLY BEAN]

I have been 'over wintering' cars for more than 30 years. Mostly UK cars and for many years in poor lock ups. I have never filled up a fuel tank or emptied one. Tire pressure increased and battery disconnected. Car not started during storage.
As for "condensation" in fuel tanks: as it is across social media it must be correct! The amount of water air can carry is dependent upon relative humidity and ambient temperature. Increase temperature and or relative humidity and there is potentially more water in the air. So in an unheated garage during a typical UK winter humidity tends to be low, temperatures low and the water content correspondingly low. Conversely, in the warmer months when there is greater relative humidity and higher temperatures there is more water in the air. If the "condensation" will accumulate in your fuel tank during winter months it is going to be much worse in summer. So why don't the "brim you tank" brigade advocate this in warmer months?
At a relative humidity of 90% and at a temperature of 10 degree C there is less than 9 grammes of water per cubic metre of air although I have read figures well below.
Condensation happens when moist warm air hits a cold surface. I have yet to see a convincing argument for this happening inside of a fuel tank of a stored car. How can a fuel tank be colder than the ambient temperature of the air around it? Perhaps someone can tell me?

[mycar]

The 'ceilings' of fuel tanks do rust though. I've relined a 911 tank and a 356 tank and both had a good amount of oxide inside.

[911FVD]

Hi,
On my smaller lighter cars I just leave handbrake off as I do on them all anyway and then every week or two roll each car forward then later on roll it back as plenty of space in my garages for average sized cars.
My problem car is the Rolls Royce Shadow as it weighs 2 tons impossible to push even on a flat surface and not enough space to move it enough forward or back, so I have four tyre trainers. It is also awkward as unless auto shifter is put in park the keys cannot be removed from the ignition. The tyre trainers are just a concaved curved plastic block that the tyres sit on.
When I was in France for 15 years and stored some cars at special facilities I was not allowed to use these. You had to pay for the cars to also be on battery condition chargers and the keys had to be left in the cars and a 'low' level fuel tank only needed for the companies insurance requirements so if there was a fire they could get cars out 'if possible' quickly.
No cars were allowed to be run in the premises and were always moved on special devices like a large pallet truck that somehow grabbed around two wheels. They would normally require one weeks notice if car was to be removed and an additional charge was made to have the car brought out of storage and placed on the front of their building.
I would hope if someone is storing cars and part of the service is starting and running for 10 minutes they have suitable extraction systems. I don't in my garages and tried these carbon canisters that push over the exhaust tailpipe. The 308 sports exhaust needed four of them and when I started the car they used to fly off like peas from a 'pea shooter'........I wonder how many remember what a pea shooter looked like

Also I run a dehumidifier overnight on economy 7........12am to 7am...............tried those air circulating cubicle cocoons but they were too awkward and hard work setting up

Steve

[Ralph]

Air movement is an important factor too - even if there is no air extraction system installed.

A small air movement fan should be left running 24hrs so as to keep the condensation at bay.

[jeremyg]

Also I run a dehumidifier overnight on economy 7........12am to 7am...............tried those air circulating cubicle cocoons but they were too awkward and hard work setting up

Steve

I run a couple of Airchambers. Basically they work, as long as you survive the ordeal of erecting the bloody thing in the first place..

[camperco]

I'm going to agree with most of the advice above. I really don't think its worth running a Porsche engine for 10 minutes, I'm sure it would do more harm than good. Castrol did a lot of research in the 70's & 80's measuring the wear effects cold starting engines compared to running them for long periods. One of the test engines was a 911. We went to their labs during an apprentice trip out and I remember seeing it stripped down on a bench.

We pump up the tyres, leave (car) windows slightly open, disconnect batteries, or fit a conditioner at customers request. A square of cardboard under the engine is handy. Its also important that cars are put away clean and all foodstuffs removed. Farm barns may not be as safe as you think!

One major factor in choosing our storage building was the low humidity. It was designed by the MOD to house powerful radio transmitters, its well insulated with a suspended floor and ceiling. I do a walk around every day and if its dry, open up the doors to get some airflow through the building.

[911FVD]

Hi,

I wonder what the horror stories are with those of us that have stored our cars and learnt over the years. My problems have occured with only just short term storage ov er winter and not as if left in a barn for years and years

I agree it is a good idea to leave the windows open a 'little' however be warned if putting a cloth car cover over the car as well. I did this years ago only to find mice had crawled up the cover got through the window gap and made the interior their home. The foam in the seats provided all their comforts and a real nice maternity suite they built pulling the foam apart.

On the eType again the mice loved the cotton covered wiring under bonnet and nibbled through the engine bay harness which cost 2k gbp to replace.

On another car when coming out of storage it started no problem but would not run.........found the whole rear box had been filled with plastic and paper bags pieces where mice had built their nest and got in through the tail pipe.

On the RR I had to stop using a beeswax leather conditioner as that was something which promoted mould growth on the leather.

Also spiders in the air boxes, so always spray clove oil and chestnut oil mix...........and if putting a cover on the car make sure it is breathable one and remove regularly as another car where I used one of these lightweight coverzone covers the paint microblistered where cover had lay on the surface.

As for the mice we do live in the country surrounded by woodland and fields and have outside logs and coal stores so now have invested in my army of little feline elves (about 12 at the last count) and since can report no problem with the cars but do end up in the middle of the night the odd mouse dumped on the bed as evidence

As for oil well not going to feed the popcorn lovers but remember back in the 80's castrol brought an oil out that was claimed to grip and stay on the metal surfaces. Tried that on the RR but the hydraulic tappets rattled so had to go back to mobil1. That said I always used castrol GTX on the Lotus and MGB back then for the ZDDP content.... enough said on that subject now.....

Steve.........and his army of helpers that now need feeding