Preparing for rust removal

[PeterK]

More answers please.....

Now that I have completed its nut & bolt, ground up restoration (in Guards Red ), I have sold my Lotus Plus 2


....... I finally have the space to start work on restoring my SC This one's supposed to be a keeper and hopefully my daily driver



First off are sills, kidney bowls,& b-posts replacement -



So, engine and gearbox are out and onto the next question - supporting the body. I have read Barry's words of wisdom and am ready to start (nearly). But first, just checking ...

At the rear I am using the torsion bar covers as my support points



At the front, while I am moving the car about, I have a piece of timber cross the front cross member (probably has a better name) in front of the petrol tank, which sits on my mobile axle stands. I'm having to use the timber at the moment, as the front torsion bar mounts don't sit safely in my axle stands. Some modification needed here methinks.



When I come do start work, should I use my caravan stands in the same place, on the torsion bar front mounts, or as far forward as possible on the floor pan ?



And when I want to remove the suspension, at the rear is it timber across the rearmost point on the floor pan or on the cross member between the shock towers, and at the front, is it the cross member or the frontmost part of the floorpan

Thanks
Peter

[Strictly]

I have had a 911 slip off the at the front, when just supported on two (i see you have 4) jack stands at the point you have used at the front, so i'll never ever use that point again.

If the front bumper is the "front" then i support just before the crossmember/steering rack on the body almost where your feet would be. This is the same place you would lift it on 2 post ramp. It wont damage the pinch welds, but if your worried you can by some cheap jack pad things designed for this on ebay.

For the rear, i support where you have it allready, unless i need to work in that exact area, and then in that case i just move the jack stands deeper into the torsion bar (between the body and where the wishbone mounts)

For general advice (i'm not sure you asked for any, but here is some) :

A) Work on one side at a time

B) leave the car complete, thats with rear bumper and wings, doors on etc. The doors are your "alignment jig", and do one bit at a time.

For example if you take your left side sill cover off, and the left rear side piece (by the oil tank). Notice how if you pull and push your rear quarter panel where the kidney is, it will flex and move where the rear side piece you too off is. So it means if you left the rear side piece still on,then the rear quarter piece that you need to cut off to do the kindey, will be easier to go back in the right place. The same with the front wings. If they are only held in with a few screws, then pushing or pulling on one piece of the wing, will move the arch line.

So in essence DO NOT disassemble the whole body. Take one piece off and fix it and then put it back, that way you have maximum possiable points of reference. My actual first starting point, is always be sure all my panel gaps are nice, and my doors close and open with that porsche click, before i start the project!

Cover your glass of course, take the interior out for sure, but other wise fix one body piece at a time

C) If you can, then weld with your wheels on. I use wheel stands, so the car is always supported on its own weight, under each wheel, as it would be on the road.

----

Remember the longer a car is apart, the longer (and more effort) it will take to put back together, so dont go nuts, as you might bite of more than you can chew and end up selling it as a project.

The secret to eating an elephant is one piece at a time!

[Burma-Shave]

Cripes. You might be better off with this!

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Porsche ... nav=SEARCH

[AVI_8]

That's a bit of so project you've got there!
Look forward to reading all about it, I presume you're good at welding! I've never tackled a project like this before but have read few threads where people have.
I've seen people welding in a few diagonal support beams into the interior to keep the shell rigid prior to cutting out the rust.
Good luck I look forward to following your progress ..... The rust behind that sill is likely to be much worse than it looks from the outside.

Nice garage BTW

Logan