My original 1959 starter motor

[roy mawbey]

Quite a story on my starter motor. All started over 47 years ago when I bought my 356A. The starter always operated but in my minds eye it was never as fast as a 12v system. The years roll by my hair changes from brown to grey and the car still always starts but by 10 years ago I knew it was not as it should be. So I started a long and complicated process of trying to resolve this.

The main problem was cranking speed. When the engine was cold it cranked as I thought an old 6v should but when hot it was far too slow. However it always started but confidence in long journeys really stopped me doing them. So at that time, I started with the earths on the system. Sort of convinced myself the earths were the culprit. Replaced the battery to chassis, cleaned the transmission to chassis till it shone, changed then the battery and cleaned all the wiring. It seemed better but really not that effective.

Time goes by and I decide to remove the starter from the car with engine still in. Mistake number one was not to raise the car high enough, and mistake two not to have the correct spanner to undo the top nut in the engine bay behind the fan. The third mistake was on finally after undoing the two nuts securing the motor I pulled it back out of the bell housing bushing tried to lower it out but, the wiring loom still clipped in place got it all caught up till finally, it released itself and dropped out of my hands on to my head. This is not a nice experience.

I then with plaster on my head found the brushes all looked good on length and the commutator looked fine. Put it all back with no real difference in operation.

Then some years later it was explained to me the starter bushing that supports the starter output shaft in the bell housing can wear and allow the armature to drop in turn rubbing on the field winding's.

So bush purchased, bush extractor purchased and with the car higher on axle stands and wiring loom un-clipped and with more access, the awful job was repeated again. This time I also established to replace the motor it helped if the long top bolt was held in place by bluetac with 45mm sticking out of the top flange of the motor. To also line up the bottom flange hole with the stud before pushing the motor forward to engage the shaft in the bushing. On this experience, it was found by moving to the right side of the car and running your hand over the transmission you can just find the head of the long bolt and push it forward to get a helper to put the nut on in the engine bay. You have to hold it till it grips. ( helper bolts are available with a steel rod secured in the head to stop it turning )

So, the motor worked again for another period of time but... the hot cranking still got slower until in the end it was really bad. I then looked at the earth from the battery to chassis once more.the factory had soldered a washer onto the battery box floor which is still original. I noticed there were gaps, so on a light lever it flew off. 57 year old surface rust underneath. all cleaned till it shone. I was confident ... Any difference ? no.....

So in August, the car finally would not turn over when cold or so slowly. Bit the bullet removed the starter noticed the solinoid bottom coil stud connection that by copper strap, goes to the starter casing and then to the field windings, looked like it had got very hot? I knew the solinoid had 3 copper connectors inside but the cap was riveted to solinoid. I also knew new old style solinoids were no longer available.

I searched the web and found Rob from Broadway Electrical Services in Grays Essex tel: 01375 372 782 and established he knew everything needed about the Bosch starter fitted to my car. I packed it up and sent it to him.

He came back to me, told me the stud nut was welded to its washer and he had to cut it off! The armature and field windings were okay but he needed to remove the 4 rivets and look inside the solinoid. He has done this a number of times before.

All agreed he stripped the motor replacing all brushes, the rear inboard bushing and after drilling out the rivets he found a really messy interior with dirty contacts. These attended too, the copper connecting strap cleaned and insulated like new.

So guys it arrived back to me looking like new!! I followed my fitting instructions, replaced the back tin behind the fan housing re-fitted the right side carb and piping and fitted the motor.

On turning the key I had a new experience! The car turned over as fast as a 12volt hot and cold. I don't think I have ever been so pleased with this 356 outcome. I am delighted and really pleased with the excellent service by Rob at Broadway Electrical. Guys make a note of his number and remember if you have a starter or dynamo problem he is the guy to talk to.

So endeth this sermon.

Roy

[neilbardsley]

Rob is a top man and has built both of my dynamos

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

[mycar]

Great story Roy, I liked the bit when the starter fell on your head, it was quite unexpected. I presume it happened long enough ago for you to have made a full recovery.

Also pleased you didn't go down the modern high torque, fast twist starter route. They're very efficient in what they do but they sound far too zingy and I feel they have no place in these old cars of ours. Much better to have the original equipment working as it should.

It is a great feeling when a plan comes together, even more so when it's been niggling you for so long.

[simon james]

Well Done Roy!
Mine was exactly the same! I have to admit that I've never really struggled to get mine off though! I once did a clutch swap in an evening, engine out and car running again!
Anyway, back to the starter! My copper strip looked super heated as well as the surface of the copper segments on the commutator. I cleaned mine up and I partially dismantled the solenoid.
As you say, 12v style starting cold and hot!
Next step LED headlight bulbs to attract flies on hot summer nights!