doing the tacho boogie
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Joelipol
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doing the tacho boogie
I have a 71 911T sporto with rebuilt gauges from Hollywood and a temperamental tacho.
The tacho swings wildly from nothing to redline+ when it is started, regardless as to if the car is hot or cold.
However if the car is 'hot' it takes very little time to settle down and read accurately - if it is cold it takes a bit longer.
It seems the car needs to be 'hot' to be reading accurately.
No idea what could be going on here but would be grateful for some advice.
The tacho swings wildly from nothing to redline+ when it is started, regardless as to if the car is hot or cold.
However if the car is 'hot' it takes very little time to settle down and read accurately - if it is cold it takes a bit longer.
It seems the car needs to be 'hot' to be reading accurately.
No idea what could be going on here but would be grateful for some advice.
Last edited by Joelipol on Thu Sep 01, 2016 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joelipol
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Re: doing the tacho boogie
Oh I have:
- new voltage regulator (problem was there with old one as well)
- new batteries
- rebuilt alternator
- I've checked that the alternator is earthed properly
- I haven't checked the starter
- I haven't checked the connections to the tacho
- new voltage regulator (problem was there with old one as well)
- new batteries
- rebuilt alternator
- I've checked that the alternator is earthed properly
- I haven't checked the starter
- I haven't checked the connections to the tacho
- jb
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Re: doing the tacho boogie
Maybe check the points gap as they seem to affect the rev counter sometimes.
#1370
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Joelipol
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Re: doing the tacho boogie
Points gap checked and a-ok - new points as well... the question is why would it work once the engine has been running for a bit... seems odd.
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Mike Smith
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Joelipol
- Married to the DDK
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- Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:21 pm
Re: doing the tacho boogie
It seems there were multiple problems just to round off the thread:
1) There is a tacho 'deadening' capacitor on the cdi electrical board that had gone. Apparently as it heated up the resistance in the unit changed and it would start to work again... when bypassing it, bam - tacho worked.
2) alternator output is down and has likely been damaged by overcharging
3) multiple earths needed redoing...
anyway - now some things to replace and mystery solved
1) There is a tacho 'deadening' capacitor on the cdi electrical board that had gone. Apparently as it heated up the resistance in the unit changed and it would start to work again... when bypassing it, bam - tacho worked.
2) alternator output is down and has likely been damaged by overcharging
3) multiple earths needed redoing...
anyway - now some things to replace and mystery solved
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MT
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Re: doing the tacho boogie
Nothing to add technically, but thanks to Joel for rounding out the thread. Not so much here, but on Pelican and 991S I have been frustrated in the past when after being thrilled at finding a thread that describes my very problem, to then be frustrated when the OP never posts the end of the story about what fixed it!
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein
1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
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Barry
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Re: doing the tacho boogie
MT wrote:Nothing to add technically, but thanks to Joel for rounding out the thread. Not so much here, but on Pelican and 991S I have been frustrated in the past when after being thrilled at finding a thread that describes my very problem, to then be frustrated when the OP never posts the end of the story about what fixed it!
Too right! How annoying is that, not to mention discourteous.
Good thread, excellent reference for the future
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