DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

A few more more weeks on our 66 912 resto and we will be into thinking about paint, seam sealer ect.

Have looked at many threads for which the doctors car seems one of the most detailed but is there a definitive paint spec anywhere of what should be used where??

It depends if you are in the originality camp or not. There's a lot of sense protecting your newly refurbished metal with modern techniques and materials for longevity. Quite a few of these were not available when your car was originally built. It's long been a conundrum for today's restorers. Por15, for instance, is a case in point.

Regards
Mike

210bhp wrote:Por15, for instance, is a case in point.

Personally, and from experience, I don't rate POR15.

Darren65 wrote:

210bhp wrote:Por15, for instance, is a case in point.

Personally, and from experience, I don't rate POR15.

How come....?...still going strong on mine....

jtparr wrote:

Darren65 wrote:

210bhp wrote:Por15, for instance, is a case in point.

Personally, and from experience, I don't rate POR15.

How come....?...still going strong on mine....

We painted a 2CV chassis a few years back and also used POR15 for the body as a base primer. After only a couple of years edges of the chassis didn't look too great and the body had bubbled in a couple of places. Also not the easiest product to work with if spraying and difficult to key. Probably better used with a brush.

A good quality epoxy on clean bare metal will always be the way to go imo.

I don't doubt POR15 is a good product and perfect for certain uses, it's just not the 'miracle paint' that its sometimes portrayed to be.

210bhp wrote:It depends if you are in the originality camp or not. There's a lot of sense protecting your newly refurbished metal with modern techniques and materials for longevity. Quite a few of these were not available when your car was originally built. It's long been a conundrum for today's restorers. Por15, for instance, is a case in point.

Regards
Mike

Looking for the finish "to look original " but happy to use modern techniques for sure, no doubt paint has changed in the last 50 years

Darren65 wrote: Also not the easiest product to work with

Your not kidding, try getting the lid off the bloody tin after you have used it once

[/quote]
Personally, and from experience, I don't rate POR15.[/quote]

How come....?...still going strong on mine....[/quote]
We painted a 2CV chassis a few years back and also used POR15 for the body as a base primer. After only a couple of years edges of the chassis didn't look too great and the body had bubbled in a couple of places. Also not the easiest product to work with if spraying and difficult to key. Probably better used with a brush.

A good quality epoxy on clean bare metal will always be the way to go imo.

I don't doubt POR15 is a good product and perfect for certain uses, it's just not the 'miracle paint' that its sometimes portrayed to be.[/quote]

Interesting what others have experienced...did you use their primer system on top of the base coat, before anything else...I did brush all of mine, 2 coats of the base POR-15 then 2 coats of their POR-primer and then the rubber stone chip then top coat...it is a paint I have to admit is hard work to apply...but gave me piece of mind....am thinking spray and epoxy for the E-Type mind you...!

I've been chuffed with epoxy mastic from Rustbuster.

For usability, I'd choose Lechlers epoxy over POR15 any day.

Looks like I have a few decisions to make

I thought por15 is meant to be painted to an already rusty surface for best protection rather than clean metal

I find it sticks like crazy to freshly shot blasted surfaces but will just peel from non keyed finishes.

What do you use for the rubber stonechip?

Plus 1

Also different stages, I.e. Primer, rubber chip, top coat?? And which areas on the car have what??