How can I remove paint fumes from clear plastic?

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vricardo
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How can I remove paint fumes from clear plastic?

Post by vricardo »

How can I remove paint fumes from a piece of clear Perspex-like plastic? I know it will never be as before, but if it could return to the previous clear state (instead of scrashed-white!)...
I've heard that Brasso Metal Polish that is good for repairing scratched CDs...
Any thoughts?

Thanks
Vasco Ricardo
"I spent a lot of money on birds, booze and fast cars. The rest I squandered." - George Best
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davidppp
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Post by davidppp »

Good news, Vaso.

If it is pespex, ie acrylate, is will burnish back better than new!

As usual start with coarser stuff eg weor dry paper about 600, work up to 1500, if thats still not fine enough finish with a body cut/polish paste..

Polycarb is not so good tho'

Kind regards
david
vricardo
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Post by vricardo »

Thanks! Was there Perspex in the early seventies? Or was it invented (and used commonly) later?
Vasco Ricardo
"I spent a lot of money on birds, booze and fast cars. The rest I squandered." - George Best
:glasses7:
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Lightweight_911
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Post by Lightweight_911 »

Perspex (which is a trade name - the chemical name is polymethylmethacrylate) has been around since the early 30's.

It was used extensively in the second world war for aeroplane cockpit canopies.

If your part is from the '70's it's more than likely made from Perspex.
Andy

“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
middlefour1
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Post by middlefour1 »

vricardo wrote:Thanks! Was there Perspex in the early seventies? Or was it invented (and used commonly) later?

Perspex or polymethyl mechacrylate (PMMA) was created in Germany in the early 1930's so been around a while. Also known as 'acrylic' or 'plexiglass' One of the best ways to restore it is to use T cut, but try it on a small area first. I've always found it works well and to finish, now don't laugh, but toothpaste will really make it shine!! I really must get out more...a lot more.
Steve
1970 Silver 914 - Gone but never forgotten........
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vricardo
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Post by vricardo »

Thanks again guys!
I knew "acrylic" was used in WWII canopies, not "Perspex"...

;-))))))

There goes one more example of brand-over-product, like Lycra, Velcro, Nylon, Ferodo, Gillete, etc...

Now comes the dumb part (as I'm not a natural english-spoken person...): what is T-cut and where can I get it?
Vasco Ricardo
"I spent a lot of money on birds, booze and fast cars. The rest I squandered." - George Best
:glasses7:
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davidppp
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Post by davidppp »

Hello, Vasco.

Your English does you credit!

T-Cut is only a normal body paint-cutting polish..its a bit more abrasive than is ideal for some things to be honest..

But depending on how deep the barks go ( thinners is usually quite deep) you will definitely need to start with somethin much rougher..other wise you will never get deep enough..

Kind regards
david
middlefour1
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Post by middlefour1 »

vricardo wrote:what is T-cut and where can I get it?
Hi Vasco,

Sorry did'nt spot you were in sunny Portugal, what David said is spot on, and T-cut really does work well, the new stuff is much better, not quite as coarse as 'Brasso', that's a brand of brass polish Vasco, I'm doing it again. Good luck with the cleaning.
Steve
1970 Silver 914 - Gone but never forgotten........
#1200
vricardo
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Post by vricardo »

Thanks for all the tips guys!
Vasco Ricardo
"I spent a lot of money on birds, booze and fast cars. The rest I squandered." - George Best
:glasses7:
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Early 911S Registry member #1067
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