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David, the oil seal isn't affected. I agree the next step is to tap out the roll pin holes. I'm worried about whether the cam will take this though. I'm beginning to think the screws in the pulley were over-tightened and maybe this stressed the screws and the cam.
Is it possible to tap into this crystalline cast steel? It looks so crumbly.
Thats the normal healthy appearnace ofchill- cast iron..
The hardness is the only real problem you may encounter..Its best to stsrt with eg a file to get some feel for the metal, or a normal twist drill in a hand brace..lots lube..I'm sure it can be worked..
Now I'm wondering if I can drill an old cam I have here to test for you..I'll do that later today if I can..
That would be very helpful David. I'm wondering whether I should bit the bullet and drop the engine, remove the camshaft and get it done properly. If I screw this up I'm looking at a new Cam which can't be cheap if they are even available.
I'd not dream of strippin it..there is nothing differnt you can do even with the cam out, and a sgood secondhand cam should be much cheaper than the labour involved in a full topend r and r..I'd estimate 15 hours.
Yeah David, I saw your earlier post. I'm sorry I couldn't ring you or something to stop you trying out what I'd already done. I spent about 3 hours under the car. Kept taking the tap out to re-lube and clear the swarf. Was petrified that something would go wrong.
I've ordered a new pulley as teh old one was a bit damaged. The new holes don't line up exactly, they're a little further out and slightly off 180 degrees from each other. Do you think it will be OK to adjust the holes on the pulley?
Looking at the broken cam from underneath the car, I realised that I'd drilled the hole slightly off centre so as I increased the size of the drill, when I eventually insterted the extractor I ended up forcing the remains of the screw outwards and eventually something had to give.
Thanks for all your help on this, you obviously know your stuff. Searching this and Pelican's site leads my to believe I am a pioneer in this operation. I never want to do it again though!
Quick question - well 2 really. When I took the head exchanger off it was full of water - the exhaust part. I've felt inside the block and its dry. The car's been outside for 3 weeks in the rain. About a pint of water came out.
Also, if I fire up the engine to test the MFI now without the heat exchanger, apart from being loud will anything bad happen?
One thing, do you think it would be worth keying up both the cam and pulley, and expoxying it on as you tighten the bolts? (I take it you'll Locktite those bolts as well?).
Just thought it (epoxy) would provide a stable bed for the pulley to really not be able to start to shift or fret.
Hope the start-up goes well .
DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's and Austin Single Seat Racers
David, what do you mean by hydraulic lock? I won't be starting it yet as I'm off on holiday tomorrow and haven't got time to put it all back together. Also, I posted on Pelican about this and it was suggested that this system can fail if you change individual parts. I changed the top pulley and the belt when the car was being restored so I've now ordered a new bottom pulley which I won't get for a week or so.
I'm also concerned about the water in the heat exchanger and am wondering if I should remove the other one. I've also got a new set of Bilsteins sitting on the garage floor so while I'm in there I may as well change them too. It never ends.
Barry, I did think of epoxying it on but the end of the cam is so nice and flat I could run the risk of having it slightly out of line. I think with a new pair of 12.9 screws it won't be going anywhere soon. The old screws must have corroded and fatuiged away. CHanging the screws will on my list of 'once every 5 years' jobs.
As you suggest, the most probable source of the water is entry via the silncertail pipe.
But unfortaunately there is also quite a high probability the water has entered via the inlet..a small leak around the filter to carb tray rubber joint will allow a surprising amount of water to enter the trays.
These are sealed and act as funnels to fill the inlet port at the lowest end..this runs thro the cylinder into the exhaust.
That itself is not a big problem apart from corrosion when sitting..the big risk comes when we try to trun the engine over.
Water then gets trapped in the cylinder , entering on the intake stroke, and getting compressed on the upstroke creates a very very high pressure..this is quite enough to bend rods etc..!
If the plugs are out this cannot happen..the engine will turn over safely and expel the water eventually via the exhaust.
