Results of E-coating

Nick Moss · Post by **Nick Moss** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:20 am

E coating does not get between the spot welds on the seams, neither does the rust removal dipping process. Ideally you should remove as mant panels as possible before the process amd it is even better to dip, weld then ecoat.

davidppp · Post by **davidppp** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:27 am

Great stuff, Steve.

That sill looks excellent inside..

Bit late now but I'd have gone the extra mile meslef and done the jack point too..

There is usually plenty rust under it which is hidden until you get it out.

Its then easy to cut out a neat rectangle from the floor outer section and let in a nice patch piece of 18G zintec to support the tube below, done right this is invisible..

I also put an extra bulkhead bit of metal to support the jack tube, and extra welds and steel in the rear part of the box running back to the torsion bar.

But then I'm just an old woman..I do not want to ever go back in there!

Looking very neat with you..well done..

Kind regards
david

1972_911t · Post by **1972_911t** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 10:05 am

Yeah I was really please with the condition of the sill inside, but then the car has had 32 years of warm california climate to protect it up untill me buying it, thats Y im keen to have it bare metald and e-coated as I dont think it would fair so well with its current paint condition on our roads.

I just hope the other side is as good when I crack into that later today.

Steve

1972_911t · Post by **1972_911t** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 10:14 am

If a car is going to be e-coated and the e-coat wont pass through the seams is it wise to drill a few small holes into the inner sill to allow the acid and the e-coat to get out otherwise I carnt see anyway for the excess to be removed after its dipped as the inner sill seems fully enclosed.

Steve