4 wheel alignment - what settings?
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moggy
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4 wheel alignment - what settings?
I've got to take my car in for 4 wheel alignment as there's something wrong with the setup. It oversteers going round left hand bends and understeers going round right hand bends. It's had a smack on the front left hand side so I'm afraid that might of knocked something out of kilter. I've had the tracking done but that hasn't fixed it, so I'm getting more serious and going for the 4 wheel alignment. However, they're going to ask me what the setting should be, so does anyone know?? e.g. toe in (front and rear) distance between wheel centers (front to back), camber, etc??
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moggy
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Yes, the guy said the 914 is not on his system.
I've just come back from doing some rudementary measurements and it seems that the left front wheel centre is 1.5cm's closer to the rear wheel centre than the right side. It looks like the smack has pushed the left front wheel towards the rear of the car by 1.5cm's. Bugger!
I'm still going to take the car in and get it verified with more accurate measurements than my methods, so if anyone has the settings it'd be great.
I've just come back from doing some rudementary measurements and it seems that the left front wheel centre is 1.5cm's closer to the rear wheel centre than the right side. It looks like the smack has pushed the left front wheel towards the rear of the car by 1.5cm's. Bugger!
I'm still going to take the car in and get it verified with more accurate measurements than my methods, so if anyone has the settings it'd be great.
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moggy
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porker914
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Moggy,
Sorry the alignment is that bad! I have looked in the genuine workshop manual and they state the following
wheel base 2,450mm
front wheel camber 0±20'
front wheel caster 6°±30'
rear wheel toe in 0°±15' per wheel
camber when empty -30'±20' (max diviation left to right = 20')
hope this helps?
David
Sorry the alignment is that bad! I have looked in the genuine workshop manual and they state the following
wheel base 2,450mm
front wheel camber 0±20'
front wheel caster 6°±30'
rear wheel toe in 0°±15' per wheel
camber when empty -30'±20' (max diviation left to right = 20')
hope this helps?
David
1969 914 now crushed!!
1971 914 now sold
1973 914 now sold
1975 914 now sold
1971 914 now sold
1973 914 now sold
1975 914 now sold
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moggy
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No probs David, you weren't to know. Without driving it round it's difficult to detect and obviously I bought it from you without you having driven it. From the surface the crash damage didn't look much, but having looked deeper I can see the inner wing is crumpled, which has caused the left front to shift towards the rear by 15mm. I have no regrets, it's a solid '14 otherwise. I just need to find someone to repair the damage.porker914 wrote:Moggy,
Sorry the alignment is that bad! I have looked in the genuine workshop manual and they state the following
wheel base 2,450mm
front wheel camber 0±20'
front wheel caster 6°±30'
rear wheel toe in 0°±15' per wheel
camber when empty -30'±20' (max diviation left to right = 20')
hope this helps?
David
Does anyone know of a workshop that can fix this i.e. has a jig for a 914?
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moggy
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Thanks Nige but I'm way past thatNige wrote:before you go and spend too much wonga, double check your tyre pressures and condition/matching tyres
I've checked the pressures, swapped the wheels for the rears, swapped tyres and wheels with other sets I have (even fronts from my beetle). Had no effect.
I've now measured the wheelbase, the right is spot on 2450mm the left is 2435mm. I re-measured a number of times and the results stay the same. The next step is to measure various suspension points tonight to see if it's the chassis that's to blame or the suspension arm. I'm hoping it's just a bent arm... but I'm not hopeful
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porker914
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moggy,
Try some of the adverts in the back of 911 world magazine as they have done various articles on jigging 911's and I would think that they would also have the jigs for a 914 but I would not expect it to be all that cheap!!
Alternatively why not buy the blue 914 I have as I am now trying to sell literally the body shell. It is extremely solid and needs no welding and has not signs of crash damage!!! Cheeky to suggest but you never know!
Regards
David
Try some of the adverts in the back of 911 world magazine as they have done various articles on jigging 911's and I would think that they would also have the jigs for a 914 but I would not expect it to be all that cheap!!
Alternatively why not buy the blue 914 I have as I am now trying to sell literally the body shell. It is extremely solid and needs no welding and has not signs of crash damage!!! Cheeky to suggest but you never know!
Regards
David
1969 914 now crushed!!
1971 914 now sold
1973 914 now sold
1975 914 now sold
1971 914 now sold
1973 914 now sold
1975 914 now sold
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moggy
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Good news
I spoke to a very nice bloke, Mike Caravisili, about jigging and whether he could do such work. He suggested to check that the ball-joint hadn't been 'knocked back' in the A-arm first. Good job he did as when I checked it it was this that was at fault. Aparently when the wheel hits a kerb at speed it's common that the ball joint gets puched back in the A-arm, towards the back of the car. When I took the damaged one with me to pick up a good secondhand one from him he said it was the worst he'd ever seen. Whoever hit that curb in the US in this car sure did it at speed
Anyway, lesson learnt.... thank god it wasn't as serious as body jigging
I spoke to a very nice bloke, Mike Caravisili, about jigging and whether he could do such work. He suggested to check that the ball-joint hadn't been 'knocked back' in the A-arm first. Good job he did as when I checked it it was this that was at fault. Aparently when the wheel hits a kerb at speed it's common that the ball joint gets puched back in the A-arm, towards the back of the car. When I took the damaged one with me to pick up a good secondhand one from him he said it was the worst he'd ever seen. Whoever hit that curb in the US in this car sure did it at speed
Anyway, lesson learnt.... thank god it wasn't as serious as body jigging

