On the face of it, that sounds more or less O.K. James (would be nice to see a bit closer to the full 12v though): a good test is to see what happens to the volts as you crank the engine. A usual voltage when cranking would be 9-10, if it stays higher with no cranking, then you've got a poor connection somewhere.
On the other hand, if the battery volts dip to 5 or 6, and especially if the batteries have been badly discharged at any point in their lives, and you have tried to charge them, then they've probably had it.
Usually a very quick test to see whether it's the starter motor/solenoid, is simply to turn the headlights on before cranking. If they stay bright, but the engine barely turns, there's a problem with ignition switch, starter motor connection, the motor itself, or the solonoid. If the headlights go dim, it's battery main positive (top of battery and main cable into loom), battery earth, or the actual batteries themselves.
Anyway, my money is going to be on the batteries, esp if they won't take a charge and they've been run down at some point. I believe that sulphates build up on the plates of a badly discharged battery: as I understand it, these sulphates compromise the battery's performance plus can fall off the plates, and lie between them: leading to shorting of the individual cells. This assumes my limited understanding of poorly batteries is correct

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