964 C2 - Rolling Resto

[rhd racer]

The other thing that is quite surprising is that both originals and repros are cast in Italy, and unusually both weigh exactly that same at c11.5kg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rhd racer]

Taking shape - amazing the difference a proper set of filler spreaders make after all thr dints have been filled in. Allow you to get really close to the right shape before blocking



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rhd racer]

Rear spoiler - this has been operating intermittently at best, and stopped completely a few weeks ago. So in between filling and flatting I took a look at what might be going on.

The cable, once removed from the motor was free and not broken, and the motor could be heard to operate on the switch. I removed the cover and it appears someone has been there before me…




Having watched Jonny Hart’s videos I thought I should remove it and see if his repair kit would work, or if the gears are nadgered. The lock wiring and glue suggested that someone had gone to the trouble of trying to repair the bearing which runs dry and seizes over time.



Opening up, this is what I found



Looks ok until - hang on, what bearing?!




Not sure if this is a first but it is certainly a cock up. Next challenge is to try and remove the inner race from the shaft and fit one of Jonny’s kits which I ordered this evening…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sladey]

Will be good to get that working properly

[rhd racer]

Well after beating the heck out of the worm section with a punch I couldn’t get it too move. I had it absolutely red hot, clamped in the vice by what was left of the bearing. Plan was to split, and then machine the bearing g inner race off because I felt it would not fall off like Jonny’s videos.



I gave up and started looking for an old gearbox to rebuild. They start at £200 and that would mean a £400 odd repair which is the price of a new gearbox drive, albeit a rebuilt one with Jonny’s kit is for life rather than 20 years or so.

I tried again, 3 attempts with it red hot and failed. Soaked it in WD40 over night and went looking for a donor. Failed again

In an absolute rage that this simple two piece object could not be separated I found a Phillips screwdriver with a shaft that just fitted into the sleeve, meaning maximum purchase. I tightened the vice jaws with a length of scaffold tube so it was more than tight. I heated it to red hot and a bit for luck and then hit seven bells out of it.

On tap 5 there was a ping and I stood clear of high speed molten lava. It had split like a charm AND left the old knackered bearing race in the vice!!

Persistence pays



You can see the tiny splines on one half



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sladey]

Impressive persistence

[hot66]

Seized on due to age rather than the previous bodge ?

[rhd racer]

Honestly I don’t know James. I suspect that it went into coffee grinder territory years ago and was not fixed, then seized.

I would imagine at this point it got hot, and with a bit of corrosion welded the two halves together. Maybe when they tried to remove the bearing it collapsed leaving me with what I had.

Or they removed the bearing g on purpose, glued the case together and patted themselves on the back for a job well done.

I will look through the invoices if I get chance and try to pin it down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rhd racer]

With a bit of renewed enthusiasm I got a 4mm washer and filed out the inside so it would fit over the shaft and assembled with the bearing



With it freely turning I greased it lightly and made a small repair to the cable



Before reassembling with the new outer cover from the kit and bolting in place



Then I gave it a go on the switch inside the car and get presto!



It proved to be a slight false start because after two goes there was a load knock and it stopped rising. After a bit of head scratching I worked out it was an alignment issue, fixed by loosely locating, operating by hand until smooth up and down and then securing. I have given it several goes and all is well- what a result

I spent a while operating the spoiler by hand with the gearbox detached and it does let more air in and out. Surprising, therefore that after all the driving I have done in these temperatures that the oil temp has remained in the middle of the gauge.

I have few more little projects on the go but waiting for a tool to arrive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sladey]

Nice - very satisfying

[rhd racer]

Cheers Mark - it is after I thought it was scrap! I will say it was made immeasurably better by Jonny’s video so I understood in detail what I was aiming for


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[911hillclimber]

It's a car that keeps giving little challenges that are always great when over come!
Good to crack these things than surrender to new.

[rhd racer]

Yes agree Graham

Next up a job that has been annoying me every time I work on the car. A design flaw that I can’t quite work out how they got away with it, so hopefully useful to other 964 owners and maybe IB cars too…

Essentially the jacking point is higher than the cill covers. So every time you jack the car up you risk cracking at best or popping off the covers at worst. They are clipped on but these are hopelessly unreliable when new so need gluing too to ensure a decent fit

Difficult to photograph but here is a rear




My idea was to repurpose some jacking pads you can buy for a Boxster or 996 to solve the problem. They are only about £20 for a set of 4 and have an oval section which fits in the jacking point on that generation of car take them more stable under jacking. I wouldn’t need this bit so cut them off




I then drilled them out and found some M10 rounded cap bolts that I could set in them



.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rhd racer]

With all 4 done I needed to drill the mounts to bolt them onto the mounts. There is no way of tightening a nut on the back because the mounts are reinforced on every side, so I fitted some captive nuts with a rivnut tool. This is a rear which was very straightforward to position so that the pad would not interfere with the cill covers



The front was a little trickier because the mount is smaller leaving less room. There is also a reinforcing plate vertically behind the optimal position, so to avoid this I needed a slightly larger hole which then would not secure the rivnut. I spot welded to secure it with a bolt in it to protect the thread - the other side was ok.




I had a worry bead that they could vibrate free and fire themselves down the road at speed, so I put a bead of Tigerseal to bond them as belt and braces




In the last pic you can see 3 of the 4. The front ones are a little lower than the rears, I don’t think you will see them at all on the ground nor will they be low enough to act like F1 planks! But I will be able to throw a trolley jack under the car with gay abandon without ripping the covers off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hot66]

Nice … although I just place a hockey puck on top of the jack