Body Work Advice

[Gary71]

Hi Nick,

I assume you then E coat again following the repair process? Next time I do my car (!) I would love to follow a similar route as it may actually stop it needing doing again 5 years later!

Would you give an outline of the costs of the cleaning and E coat process?

Hi Steve,

I have Lokari aluminium arch liners fitted to my car as I was also paranoid about the 1/4 to body joint above the rear wheel. 2 years and many thousands of all weather mileage later it's still clean up there and all the waxoyl I sprayed is still there!

[Nick Moss]

E coating is carried out before repair to protect the shell during transport and restoration. Its also the only way to get protection into the closed sections of the chassis. The main deterrent to carring out this process after restoration would be the cost at £750 plus 2 days trailering to the midlands for delivery and collection.

[Gary71]

Thanks Nick,

£750 is not the end of the world I guess relative to the cost of rebuilding the car again. Certainly something to consider.

Steve,

I've dug out this photo of the rear arch liner in situ.




Liners are from:

http://www.lokari.de/en/innenkotfluegel.php

Previous thread was on PCGB:

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.as ... %2ClinersꚖ

Bit difficult to pay for, they don't take cards, but worth the hassle with your bank! £168 delivered for the set of four.

[1972_911t]

Nick which process of stripping do you profer or does it depend on the condition of the car? I presume blasting is better on a rusty car that is going to have most panels replaced? and the chemical is better if the panels are to be reused so as not to damage the finnish?

Does the 750 include the chemical stripping or is that just the E-coat?

I think I will just have to see when the time comes wether I go full on all panels off resto, or just replace what needs to be done. Bearing in mind my car is just a LHD T that were made in the 1000's its obviously not as economical as doing it on the 911's that were made in the 100's or less in RHD. That said this car is just my toy and I have no intension of ever selling it so in that respect it probably is worth it in terms of longevity of the car.

Hi Gary can you point me in the direction of somewhere that sells the Lokari aluminium liners you mentioned?

Thanks Steve

BTW the car with the dodgy torsion tube repair, was that an abandend resto or had it actually been used on the road like that?

[1972_911t]

Gary thanks for the link on the liners you must have posted that at the same time I was asking

Steve

[Nick Moss]

For me blasting has the benefit of being done either on site or at his workshop which is less than 5 miles away, it can be done on specific parts of the car without a major stripdown and its cheap. The cons are the mess, the grit comes out for ever. The chemical stripping requires a complete car strp which takes nearly a week, and obviously complete reassembly which takes a month! The ecoat is an optional add-on, the shell can be left bare metal (£1000) or can be etch primed (£350) or ecoated (£750).

[1972_911t]

So the cost of chemical strip and e-coat on a stripped of parts shell is 1750? Whats the cost of full car blasting? Does blasting have the extra benefit of taking away surface rust? especially in hard to reach places?
This is why I like the idea of blasting.

Steve

[Nick Moss]

Chemical stripped does a better job of removing rust as it get it ALL, even in placed you can't see. This would make it difficult to repair, but if ecoated its not going to get any worse. Blasting costs around £400.

[1972_911t]

Right so on a car where you didnt intend to replace all the panels that David and Alan mentioned unless totally necessary, chemical stripping followed by E-coat would definatly be the way to go then.

How does the e-coat work to get in all the box section etc is it just sprayed? or some for of dipping?

Thanks Steve

[Nick Moss]

I saw this car when it was for sale about 3 years ago. It was a complete car that had had an RS conversion. It was in a barn and hadn't been used for some years. It was complete and not an abandoned restoration project.

[Nick Moss]

Ecoating is a complete submersion, electrophoretic process. It used by the auto industry on jacks and suspension components etc.

[Gary71]

As Nick said e-coat is a full immersion process, it is effectively just paint.

It is is a highly effective method of getting to everything, assuming decent fluid flow into 'sealed' box sections and gives a perfectly even smooth finish. Coupled with the chemical dip before hand it probably gives the best chance you have of holding back the rust, but it is not galvanising.

It is used almost universally for complete BIW assemblies. Following a recent build of a new car we have cut it up to look at all the internal box sections to ensure the e-coat is getting everywhere. A great deal of effort is put into the approach angle to the dip tank etc to ensure no air is trapped inside the car.

I'm not sure the 911 was e-coated when new, can anyone confirm? The process was certainly in use by then (even by Triumph I understand from a Stag owning brother in law!). Having looked in my sills I doubt it though

I've yet to be convinced by any process that 'stabilises' existing rust (even light pitting) My car was POR15 coated when in bare metal and is still bubbling back up in a couple of places. Ah well it's as old as I am and was probably rusty 5 years after it came out of the plant, so I just back to where it started!

I'll stop rambling now and get on with what I was supposed to be doing

[Alan @ CanfordClassics]

My car is going to get blasted tomorrow, so I will get some pictures for comparisons sake. It will be etch primed straight after. If my car was rusty in all those hard to reach places I would have had the car dipped as Nick described, but the shell is quite good and hence blasting.

Alan