What did you do in/on/for your Porsche today?

[Ian Comerford]

Figured out my front wheel bearing problem earlier this week. It wasn’t the bearings sadly, the spindles are worn meaning I cannot get the correct adjustment. The wear is tiny but enough to give a small level of rim rock when the adjustment on the thrust washer is correct. Replacement struts then…. More of the story in this link if you are bored…or interested
https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/ind ... ing-issue/

[911hillclimber]

In my 35 years with my 73T the front bearing have slackened over time, ie between MoT's.

I have changed the taper bearings about 4 times in about 50 or 60K miles.

This last 12/18 months they are now stable, no/tiny amount of wheel play, washer a firm fit under the clamp nut. These bearings are about 10 years old.

The separate sleeve that goes onto the stub axle is for the seal to run on and to set the inner bearing small diameter to the axle accurately to align the disk to the calliper.

The fit of the inner race race of the inner bearing is not tight, at best snug and is sometime reluctant to come off, two screwdrivers prise it off plus a few swear words. New races drift on quite easy.

The otter bearing is very free to come way off the small dia of the stub axle.

If the axle is worn it can only be the race 'walking' round the axle when the car is driven indicating the race was a 'loose' fit.

Over the miles I feel some grease (at high temperature ) may get under the 'loose' race which will allow the race to walk easier still, = wear.

If you want the race to stay in place, clean all surfaces (brake cleaner clean), apply a LITTLE Loctite bearing fit to the leading lip of the race and knock it onto the stub, quickly and firmly.
It will go 'off' in about 5 mins.
This WILL make the race hard to remove cold, but some good heat (hot air gun) will ease it's grip and you can fight the race off with drivers or even grind the race locally to allow a good chisel to crack it open to a 'C' shape which i have done in the past.

This may be a good alternative to a new strut. If it fails to fix the issue you have lost very little, but it might work too!

[hot66]

I’ve always had noticeable rim rock’ when I grab the top of the front wheels and rock the car …with the bearings adjusted properly and with different sets of struts

[Sam]

Sent it off to pastures new…

IMG_6317.jpeg

[Bootsy]

Bless ya - you had that a good while

[hot66]

Anything replacing it sam ?

[Sam]

First part of a plan for a total vehicular overhaul.

Also selling:

Ahorn Camp F695
Ferrari Testarossa
Guzzi V7
Vespa 300
Fisher Fury fireblade
~16 bikes

Then breathe.

Then make a plan.

At the moment it feels a bit sad. Gone is a big shiny noisy metal thing and all I have is a different number on my internet banking screen.

[Sam]

I was going to make myself feel a bit better by buying a shiny new bezel for my Garmin Fenix but it seems they’re not replaceable.

[Geordie71]

First part of a plan for a total vehicular overhaul.

Also selling:

Ahorn Camp F695
Ferrari Testarossa
Guzzi V7
Vespa 300
Fisher Fury fireblade
~16 bikes

Then breathe.

Then make a plan.

At the moment it feels a bit sad. Gone is a big shiny noisy metal thing and all I have is a different number on my internet banking screen.

Samuel – I’m interested in the Vespa 300. See WhatsApp.

Keep the fury and we’ll go hill climbing. You can drive and I will drink.


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[Sam]

Keep the fury and we’ll go hill climbing. You can drive and I will drink.

I actually need to talk to you about borrowing the trailer to get it over to an electrician in October to finish the loom…

[Geordie71]

Keep the fury and we’ll go hill climbing. You can drive and I will drink.

I actually need to talk to you about borrowing the trailer to get it over to an electrician in October to finish the loom…

Knock £145 of the agreed price for the Vespa and you can borrow the trailer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sam]

Hmm…

[Ian Comerford]

In my 35 years with my 73T the front bearing have slackened over time, ie between MoT's.

I have changed the taper bearings about 4 times in about 50 or 60K miles.

This last 12/18 months they are now stable, no/tiny amount of wheel play, washer a firm fit under the clamp nut. These bearings are about 10 years old.

The separate sleeve that goes onto the stub axle is for the seal to run on and to set the inner bearing small diameter to the axle accurately to align the disk to the calliper.

The fit of the inner race race of the inner bearing is not tight, at best snug and is sometime reluctant to come off, two screwdrivers prise it off plus a few swear words. New races drift on quite easy.

The otter bearing is very free to come way off the small dia of the stub axle.

If the axle is worn it can only be the race 'walking' round the axle when the car is driven indicating the race was a 'loose' fit.

Over the miles I feel some grease (at high temperature ) may get under the 'loose' race which will allow the race to walk easier still, = wear.

If you want the race to stay in place, clean all surfaces (brake cleaner clean), apply a LITTLE Loctite bearing fit to the leading lip of the race and knock it onto the stub, quickly and firmly.
It will go 'off' in about 5 mins.
This WILL make the race hard to remove cold, but some good heat (hot air gun) will ease it's grip and you can fight the race off with drivers or even grind the race locally to allow a good chisel to crack it open to a 'C' shape which i have done in the past.

This may be a good alternative to a new strut. If it fails to fix the issue you have lost very little, but it might work too!

Thank you for this detail, it’s useful in confirming a few things. The wear on the stub axle is visible in terms of it being a darker strip which measures up very slightly smaller (5/100 mm) than the full dia. I’m clear that it was caused by grease being present between the race and the spindle/stub but can’t go back now. I have considered Loctite, it was suggested by someone but am concerned it could work too well such that when I get back it’s difficult to pull the hub off. I’m not clear on how I would get heat in there when the hub, disc et al are all in the way. Unless I force it off over the rear grease seal. Amp air replacement struts is in the tea leaves and if I have time will be done before I head off to Angouleme on the 17th. Otherwise plenty of grease and keep an eye on it over the 2k miles of the trip. Thank you again

[911hillclimber]

I hope I have not mis-understood your original post Ian.
When you pull easily by hand the disc/hub off the spindle the inner bearing inner race is left behind, the seal usually traps the taper race in he hub casting. The outer bearing as a whole usually comes off 'loose' (or at least my 73T hubs do).
I have assumed the inner race left on the spindle adjacent to the seal ring is on fast or loose. It should be a good fit on the spindle surface.
I have had one of those races very tight on my spindle and that was the one I had to grind down to a fraction of it's life and cracked the race open with the chisel and the race almost slid off as all grip was removed.

If a new race is an easy (light tap) fit then it is possible the spindle is worn, the previous race has been walking round the spindle diameter in the past.
If that is the situation the bearing fit liquid to bond it to the spindle. If that race needs removing then air gun heat (no steel discolouration) will liquify the Loctite and two drivers will pry the race off with effort.

I've been to the Race of the Ramparts 20 years ago and the car will be fine, adjust it as per Haynes manual, and as James has said, they all move a bit hence the usual fuss at an MoT with an inspector not used to classics!

Enjoy the Ramparts!

[Ian Comerford]

Thank you again, it’s appreciated. There must be differences in our hubs because when you are fitting new bearings you put the larger bearing loosely into place in the hub and the fit the grease seal. You cannot then remove the bearing which is why I am slightly concerned about Loctiting the bearing to the spindle. I think it will be fine but I will addd extra grease to allow for the increase friction from the 8nner race rotating and hope that keeps the heat down. In the margins I’m looking for a pair of replacement struts but want to retain my Boge open oil bath dampers, they are lovely and smooth and there’s nothing to fail in them.
Ian