Repairing an old Kodak camera

[911hillclimber]

Have had a long interest in photography, more to record things than chasing a art inspired shot or two.

I loved black and white in my youth and did home processing often, good experience.

As time has gone on I have gathered a nice collection of 35mm Kodak cameras the best being my late father's Kodak Retina Reflex III which gets a film every year, monochrome of course.
Inspired a touch by a few YouTube videos of classic camera repairs decided to find an old Kodak rangefinder to try to repair, my first delve into instruments where small screws rule, not M6 bolts and a MIG welder.

Found an interesting Kodak on ebay, very popular in the USA from the end of the Second World War to around the early 50's.
Described as faulty, spares or repair the issue being with the leaf shutter which is not exactly simple, but common to all the kodaks I have.

Names the Kodak 35 mine arrived today, dated 1952, such a good year(!).

Not sure as ever if a thread on my mini adventure will be interesting to DK but happy to try.
A slow project if I can resist ripping into it, and a few special parts/tools to make/ buy along the way.
I have a 20 exposure roll of 125 ASA B&W film waiting....

It looks like this:

[neilbardsley]

Strangely many years ago, when working in NYC, we took a trip up to Rochester and visited the Kodak museum/visitor centre. I will follow with interest

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[911hillclimber]

Started to study the task in hand on the camera.
To determin anything on the shutter (and all other functions) need a film!
The shutter only charges when a film is wound on in the camera, but the aperture and speed dials are nice and smooth, the focus is a bit heavy, but a few mins turning the elements will looses the damping grease.
The shutter will be the hard bit, but a restorer has a video demonstrating the speeds of a good camera, time and sound are easy to compare on the video but also with the Synchro-Compur shutter cameras I already have esp the Retina 1a.

Found an old 36 exposure film on ebay for £5 which will do he job of getting the basics evaluated.

My mind is also on restoring the finish on the steel parts of the camera (ie almost everything).

I think it is all satin chrome plate over steel and has caught some scratching in places.

Overall, this camera design gets good reviews once you have learnt to 'drive' it like cameras of this age, and Kodak are very good at making the shot a bit of a faff setting the camera.

[911hillclimber]

Error...
The metal body parts are brass and plated using something, not sure what.
The coating looks and feels like zinc plating, but not sure, the finish you get on Zintec zinc coated steel nowadays.

Thinking of going black body:

[Nine One One]

http://www.cameramanuals.org/kodak_pdf/kodak_35.pdf

http://www.cameramanuals.org/kodak_pdf/ ... 5_f3_5.pdf

https://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=kodak35

https://mikeeckman.com/2015/12/kodak-35 ... 1939-1948/

[christaylorsound]

Buy/borrow a cheap digital SLR that you know is good, set to same ASA etc. Take similar shots with the same shutter and iris and see if they come out about the same as the film. If different then perhaps you'll know/guess what the offset should be.

[911hillclimber]

Thank you both!
I've seen the links a few days ago whilst finding out about stripping the camera before I get going this weekend. The pheugo article is particularly good, almost a Haynes manual.
I've already ordered a manual from the USA, the military repair manual no less.
Not seen the Mike Eckman one, so more good guidance.

I'm going to need it. Never delved into this level of 'instrumentation scale before.

I've used the digital trick before to check out my lovely Kodak Retina 1a, nice camera and it was spot on.

Advanced the film sprocket and hence shutter, but the shutter fails to fire just as the seller said. (at 50th sec setting)

You can remove the lens top cover to manually cock the shutter so will try that but I think it is just a sticky set of leaves, fingers crossed.

Range finder is good so the mirror id ok I hope, true image at infinity, splits horizontally nicely else where and responds smoothly to the quirky focus wheel.

The camera was serviced in 1959 by Kodak London, there is a nice sticker inside the film chamber.
Did they sell these in the UK I wonder?

[911hillclimber]

Just tried cocking the shutter by turning the film sprocket by hand.
All advanced and clicked firmly to position ie film wound on for the next frame shot.

Shutter worked! ( set @ 50th) Seems sluggish.
Tried again a few times at 10th to 100th, worked every time but seems the same speed of open/close when looking through he lens from inside the body.

Maybe it all just needs a clean or simply using a few times to loosen it all up?

Thinking of 'washing' it through with rubbing alcohol.

Any thoughts on that approach?
Not sure I want to fully strip it down, looks horrendous inside the shutter.

[Nine One One]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/orca-e2-isop ... 1ltr/826ch

[911hillclimber]

Just read using the alcohol above is the right thing or lighter fluid.
Not sure which is best, but have a good size bottle of alcohol that is near fresh.

About time to actually strip it all down.

[911hillclimber]

Sharp intake of breath and off we went.

Having the right screwdrivers really helps, luckily over the years these come together, and the camera stripped down well.

Those tutorials are good!
When this camera was serviced they went right into the shutter and the 2 small indents you have to 'drill' as a DIY mechanic were already there, not production features, and my dividers from my apprenticeship came in real handy.

Got down to the shutter leaves, and gave them a good wash in alcohol and the adjacent mechanism esp where the finger shutter release is located, bound to be grubby and it was.

Left it a while and then re-fitted the shutter speed indicator ring and holding the lot together by fingers, cocked the shutter in 1/100th and fired the shutter.

PING it opened and closed in a twinkle of an eyelid instead of an eternity.

Tried it several times and it works well. Still a bit wet from the wash (I was generous) I have decided to leave it all overnight to really evaporate off.

Pleased with that so far.

The front lens pair (of 4) looks very clean and free of fungus on both sides, again alcohol washed.

Gave the top cover a god going over with the ever faithful Autosol and that scoured the finish well, might just leave it as satin now!

Some way to go yet, but very encouraged by progress.

There was a grease in places that has dried to a sticky gum, so may use just a 'smear' in places of wheel bearing grease....

A few pics as ever:

[911hillclimber]

As expected, the fight has commenced....

Flushed the whole mechanism out with alcohol and left to dry. First mistake.
Drowned it again, flushed, left to dry, 2nd mistake.

Came back to the camera and the shutter was jammed. Hadn't touched it.

Started to get intimate with the watch level parts and discovered a few things that freed the shutter and I realised how the shutter cocking worked in this part-striped assembly.

Got the shutter working reliably again. Strikes me some of these fine moveing parts are super critical for function.

The mistakes are getting fewer.
NEVER allow the wet mechanism to air dry. A residual smear is left on the parts, gumming the lot up.

So, flood the mechanism and force dry using my electric tyre inflator with a fine nozzle attachment, gives a nice sharp blast to get right into the parts.

Focusing now on getting the film advance mechanism to move freely, too hard atmo.

Getting there, but a bit testing of my patience but I was in a the middle of the scrum for the Wolverhampton football match traffic in the town centre, not good for any of my senses.

About to be called downstairs to watch F1 Quaifying.

[911hillclimber]

The camera stood overnight, so with some trepidation, fired the shutter on 1/200th and it snapped really well, 50th/25th and 10th and all responded as the speeds dropped.
The cocking of the shutter via the film sprocket is now nice and light and repeatable.
The oil used is 30 year old Halfords '3-in-1' and is not too thin so stays put rather than mass migration of the oil over places best left dry.

Good grief, could i have actually fixed this issue?

The oil has seeped into the right places esp the release cocking section and the film advance ring is smooth.

Rather think this cameral lived in a very dusty place and much is simply in need of a clean and oil where I dare.

Next step will be to clean the lens sections (2) and reassemble those to the shutter.

At that point it is a decision to leave 'silver' or paint black. Either way there are painted details to restore.

[neilbardsley]

https://share.google/zfO03yQdH0brknD5G

This might guide you as to the difference watch oils available. Maybe ott!

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[911hillclimber]

Too late!

The camera is back together at last and seems to work reliably, but I'll reserve the right to make it a 'display only' item..
Been a tease today to say the least, even watched the F1 to get away from it, but now all back together.

The range finder is right and the brightness of the RF eye 'piece/slot/ and the general view finder is so good for the careful clean.

It will need a film through it to prove things, so will do this soon, might even take it on hols and see how that works out.

Film cameras are very expensive when all done, you can hit £30 per 36 exposures, and you never know if they will be good.

Good fun, very nostalgic for me as when a teenager I did a lot of film, processing and printing etc, my father did only colour transparencies, DIY processing even.

Those chemical must have been evil.
Waiting for the 'Kodak 35' logo to dry and then it's done.

Think I prefer motorcycles, but those days are gone now sadly.