Cellulose Spraying

JohnS · Post by **JohnS** » Wed May 10, 2006 7:40 am

Can anyone recommend a good cellulose sprayer in the North Surrey or SW London area?
Many thanks

james911rs · Post by **james911rs** » Wed May 10, 2006 8:42 pm

Can i ask why cellulose and not two pack?

stuby · Post by **stuby** » Thu May 11, 2006 12:22 am

Hear hear - better off with 2 pack

johndglynn · Post by **johndglynn** » Thu May 11, 2006 12:40 am

Another one for two-pack

davidppp · Post by **davidppp** » Thu May 11, 2006 7:41 am

Just to note that the original (cellulose of course) metallics from the 1950's do not look the same in 2-pack.

If you look at something like a correct bristol 402/3, or a BMW 503 etc, or even some 356's these metallics have an elusive quality which is not possible in 2-pack.

Finding someone who knows how to spray old metallics is a challenge..

Kind regards
David

JohnS · Post by **JohnS** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:03 am

Thanks for your replies - the reason for cellulose is that the car already had this paint on it - I've been advised by 3 or 4 spray shops that, basically you need to strip all of the cellulose off before applying 2 pot. If you don't the car will look fine for about a year then spray will deteriorate. Reason; cellulose does not fully dry - but 2 pot does so you are putting a hard coat (2 pot) on top of a 'moving' coat of cellulose.
Lastly, while 2 pot can give a great finish it does not look the same as the original paint - to me. Not sure I can face stripping the whole car - I've had it off the road for a year and done a huge amount of work on it so its time to drive it again.
Regards
John

davidppp · Post by **davidppp** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:43 am

Hello, John.

Porsche never to my knowledge used cellulose on the 911.

It was always synthetics, later two pack.

it is possible the very early meatllics were cellulose..but I do not knwo for sure..and by the 70's it woudl have been rare indeed to not use twopack or even basecoat plus clear from the Factories..

If it has cellulose on it, nothing you can do now except remove it will prevent problems in my opionion.

baremetalling will not take as long as you think and since a Decent spray job will cost 2K nowadays, the additional cost is small beer for the security of knowing its done right..and greatly enhances the cars value to show baremetal pics IMHO..

I'd just do a rattle can patch up until you can set aside time and cash to do it right..

Kind regards
david

Disclaimer: I have done no spraying for twenty plus years..

Graham · Post by **Graham** » Thu May 11, 2006 10:33 pm

You can buy a Barcoat/sealer paint that will seal most types of paint so you can apply 2 packs,that could be an option????
Ive done this with a couple of 356's and an E-type Jag and got good results with them,the E-type I did about 6/7 years ago and there is no visable signs of sinkage/shrinkage.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu May 11, 2006 10:50 pm

From my limited experience, cellulose is the most aggresive paint in terms of causing reactions anyway. I agree with Graham, an isolator followed by 2K is probably the answer.

Having said that, unless the car is very straight, if you're going to that trouble I'd go the whole hog and bare metal it: you could easily have the expense of a respray only to find previously unknown repairs surface in a year or two: I always find that a car's panels look far better (flatter) from a bare paint as you don't end up with conflicting layers of filler and high build primer being used to cancel out previous ripples: i.e. you can strip what looks like a ripply car back to find very straight panels underneath.

veryporky · Post by **veryporky** » Fri May 12, 2006 11:29 pm

I'd go with the bare metal too. I always do that with my restos as it the only way for peace of mind. I would however suggest postponing it until the winter. Just enjoy it for now no matter how tatty the paint looks, assuming the mechanicals are ok.
As for early metallics VW and glasurit pioneered 2 pack back in the 50s and used it for that finish on beetles at that time as far as I know. I expect that 356s used the same paint though I could be wrong.

JohnS · Post by **JohnS** » Wed May 17, 2006 5:31 pm

Many thanks for all yr comments and feedback. Well..I've taken the plunge and gone for a bare metal respray with 2 pack. The car is now 90% stripped to bare metal - taken me about 15 hours so far and 5 litres of Nitro mors stipper. wire wool and a scraper. I hope to finish it tomorrow. So all in all not too bad and certainly a lot quicker than rubbing down/filling/rubbing down and on and on. I spend hours doing this. The only problem with bare metal strip is what you may find underneath the paint! As it turned out I've found only some very light filling and a bit of leading (some of which I did last year).
Next week its off to the spray shop. Doors, bonnet, boot and sunroof are off and stripped - may go the whole hog and take off the front wings as well - the spray shop prefer it like this.
Thanks again for all yr comments
John
73 911T

stuby · Post by **stuby** » Wed May 17, 2006 11:10 pm

Well done - thats the ONLY way to tackle it - head on, I'm sure it will turn out better in the long term - just remember to get all the stripper off - the final finish is all in the preparation

DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker