Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread

[deano]

Waved this Merak idea past my wife, who wasn't too impressed, so its a no then...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256072645579

[PeterK]

Sometime forgiveness is easier than permission (providing you’re still alive to seek forgiveness).



That said, when I bought my Lotus, SWMBO didn’t speak to me for about 6 months

[PeterK]

Last minute change of plan – I went to the Basingstoke Festival of Transport instead of Beaulieu. A few aircooled Veedubs & vans, but no aircooled Porsches. Well, except for mine in the ‘visitors’ carpark.

What did I learn on this little jaunt
1 – the heaters are staying partially on. Simple on the road solution was to turn the aircon on.
2 – it’s fun with the targa top off
3 – a 4 litre BMW X5 may like to charge up by the side of me at the roundabout and rev his engine, but once we were clear to go, he was left in my wake


So, once home, up on the lift for a quick looksee. The NS heater box was not fully opening. It would open if given a poke, but after cycling the autoheat to hot and back to cold, it stayed slightly closed. Plenty of lube (oh er missus) and still the same. I tried adjusting the cable a bit more but the end snapped off, so I left the heater box in the open / off position and ordered a new cable from Matthew (Type911).

That cable came this morning, so as SWMBO was going out, plans were made.


Plan was to start by removing the cables from the heater boxes, so up on the ramp. Well the original plan was to undo the nuts and just pull the cables out, but although the nuts undid easily, the cables were a bit bent and liked it where they were. A pair of side cut pliers and they soon lost the argument.


Car back on the ground and remove the 4 bolts retaining the autoheat


Off with the rubber boot


And the side panel for access to the connecting rod




Disconnect the various electrical plugs



It had all been going so well …



Top tip – when you unpin the connector, don’t drop the pin down here (especially as it is not magnetic)


Wire reattached to pin and slotted back into the connector



Back on track and undo this small set screw to release the old cable (sorry, the phone was too close to focus properly and if I moved further away, the screw was hidden)


Equally impossible for focus on, were the two tubes that lead the cables towards the flapper boxes




So, having pulled the old cable out, I fed the new cable ends down the tubes and secured the end to the red lever.

More top tips – don’t (repeatedly) drop the small set screw when trying to attach the new cable. I probably should have removed the seat, but I knew better. Haha. At least the set screw and washer were magnetic.


I found it better to pull off the short flexible outer sleeves that run from the rear bulkhead to the flapper boxes when feeding the cables down and through the tubes inside the tunnel. That allowed me to wriggle the flexible outers onto the inners – the inners were originally getting held up passing through the ferrules at each end of the flexibles.


Then it was a case of reattaching everything inside the car, raise it and back underneath. I cycled the autoheat to full heat, then attached the cables to the flapper boxes with them set to closed (heat mode). I then cycled the autoheat to cold and thankfully, the flapper boxes were spot in the middle of the open (no heat mode).

[PeterK]

It’s been a while. Loads of sailing maybe, but also actually driving the SC. There are a few things that I want to do, like change the oil and repair a slight front spoiler doorstep interface issue, but job 1 is to replace the starter solenoid.
On the odd occasion the starter just doesn’t engage, nada, nothing. If I try a couple of times, then it will spin and the car always starts, so hopefully, it is just the solenoid.

I purchased a replacement solenoid from AES. The good news is a keen price, the less good news is that having confirmed my order they quoted a 2-day despatch (or otherwise they would let me know). After a week I emailed for an update yet got no response. A week later I was advised that it had shipped. So here we are, a month later, and I have actually got my act together and it’s finally time to fit it.

Step 1, remove the starter. Step 1a, disconnect battery (usefully I had fitted a battery cut out during the main resto). I have the luxury of a mid-height lift, but it was still a challenge. The lower barrel nut was easy, the top one less so. I found kneeling under the car, with the rachet and extension on the right side of the transmission and my left hand looped over the top of the transmission to locate and steady it was least problematic.

Having disconnected the main battery cable and the yellow ’start’ cable, forgetting to remove the alternator cable made the starter reluctant to come out. However, having rectified that small error, out it came.



Starter into vice (gently)


Remove starter earth


Then remove the two retaining machine screws


I used a screwdriver bit from my impact driver on a ratchet to get started, but they came out easily enough



Maybe I should have done this a bit earlier, but I compared the solenoids before finally removing the old one.


There’s a lever/arm thingy that the end of the solenoid has to slip over


Then reassembly is fairly straightforward


Refit to car, reconnect the battery, reset the clock (mine still works) and turn the key. Instant spinning of the starter, followed by the engine starting (which I hadn’t intended as I’m not driving it for a couple of days).


I don't have any cake (unlike some others), but time for a cuppa methinks

[PeterK]

So, it's been a while since I updated this thread. Not a lot has happened - I"ve been driving it (not enough) mainly because I've been sailing (a lot).

Anyway, now it's time to up the ante, so the CIS Is going and a MaxxECU Sport and Triumph ITBs are inbound. Bodywork assistance was best here on DDK< so despite it being an IB, here's where my resto thread lives. My CIS To EFI thread has just started on IB, if you feel inclined to follow along for the ride ...... https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/ind ... is-to-efi/

[Gary71]

Hi, I’m sure plenty on here (including me!) would like a CIS to EFI conversion thread so can you cut and paste the content?

[Ian Comerford]

It’s been a while. Loads of sailing maybe, but also actually driving the SC. There are a few things that I want to do, like change the oil and repair a slight front spoiler doorstep interface issue, but job 1 is to replace the starter solenoid.
On the odd occasion the starter just doesn’t engage, nada, nothing. If I try a couple of times, then it will spin and the car always starts, so hopefully, it is just the solenoid.

I purchased a replacement solenoid from AES. The good news is a keen price, the less good news is that having confirmed my order they quoted a 2-day despatch (or otherwise they would let me know). After a week I emailed for an update yet got no response. A week later I was advised that it had shipped. So here we are, a month later, and I have actually got my act together and it’s finally time to fit it.

Step 1, remove the starter. Step 1a, disconnect battery (usefully I had fitted a battery cut out during the main resto). I have the luxury of a mid-height lift, but it was still a challenge. The lower barrel nut was easy, the top one less so. I found kneeling under the car, with the rachet and extension on the right side of the transmission and my left hand looped over the top of the transmission to locate and steady it was least problematic.

Having disconnected the main battery cable and the yellow ’start’ cable, forgetting to remove the alternator cable made the starter reluctant to come out. However, having rectified that small error, out it came.



Starter into vice (gently)


Remove starter earth


Then remove the two retaining machine screws


I used a screwdriver bit from my impact driver on a ratchet to get started, but they came out easily enough



Maybe I should have done this a bit earlier, but I compared the solenoids before finally removing the old one.


There’s a lever/arm thingy that the end of the solenoid has to slip over


Then reassembly is fairly straightforward


Refit to car, reconnect the battery, reset the clock (mine still works) and turn the key. Instant spinning of the starter, followed by the engine starting (which I hadn’t intended as I’m not driving it for a couple of days).


I don't have any cake (unlike some others), but time for a cuppa methinks

Hi Peter,
This is useful, thank you, I need to do this job also. Would you mind please sharing the detail on which solenoid you bought from AES. Also, the new/old differ structurally from your picture but I assume the new one fitted fine without any extra work? Thank you

[PeterK]

I bought part number 135358 (£33.50 including delivery in Sept 2023), which no longer appears on the AES website, but is available on a Google search. Fitted fine.

[PeterK]

Hi, I’m sure plenty on here (including me!) would like a CIS to EFI conversion thread so can you cut and paste the content?

OK, I'll cross post

[PeterK]

How time flies.
EFi is working well (link in my signature for the blog on design & installation) - never worry about a start, whether in the recent nobbling cold or a hot start after a blast. So what else's been going on .....maybe I should summarise here.

As per my 'woes' threads, my gearbox expired on the way home from the dyno. Expert opinion (Barry's, not mine, as I'm far from an expert in anything, other than being ex (past it) and sometimes a spurt (a drip under pressure) was that whereas in the olden days, you'd do a power run, stop the car, fiddle with carb jets, rerun, repeat, etc, nowadays you power run, tap a few keys and go again. All power runs are normally in 4th gear, which just leads to overheating and Bob's your aunty's live in lover, & time for a gearbox rebuild.

I removed the original manual aerial and filled the hole during my resto, deciding to go all modern and only use DAB radio, with a thru-glass aerial. Having lost 3 at £70 a pop, I fitted an internal version. Not quite as good reception-wise, but it's still there more than a year later. However, DAB reception has become really poor, despite having replaced the internal aerial just in case. Turns out it must just be local coverage, as I now realise that it's getting progressively worse in my daily driver as well.

So, despite my best intentions to just drive it and not keep playing with it, I fitted an electric aerial to add FM, with an amplifier/ splitter to do both DAB & FM. I then got a nice deal on a pair of wings and a hi-torque starter. The starter is fitted, and despite the snow, the wings have been stripped where needed, treated, epoxied and the original side indicator and aerial holes filled, plus a new hole for the electric aerial added. I just need some warmer weather to allow me to spray them now. I also got a great deal on a pair of Boxster calipers needing a refurb. So I now have a rebuilt pair of calipers, with adapters, 3.2 discs and a turbo master cylinder that I got new, for cheap ages ago, sitting on the bench and waiting for sometime after the MOT (Monday).

In between this, I had the pleasure of drying out the car - it took a week of rags and a dehumidifier running full time. Top tip - make sure the windows are fully closed during heavy rain.

The clutch cable was replaced when I did the gearbox, but has had an annoying squeak when depressing the pedal. Although I rebuilt the pedal box as part of the resto, I took it out and replaced the brass bushed again. Much better, but still a little squeak at times, although that is getting less and less noticeable.

I do need to drive it more, so when I renewed the insurance, I added business travel so that I can use it to go to sailing (all starts again this weekend for me) and I have a few social trips planned over the next month. So hopefully more miles this year.

[911hillclimber]

Busier and more interesting than my 'winter with a 911' which used to be pretty active esp when hillclimbing it.

Starting in any condition is great, the 3.2 system gives those qualities, makes for such a better car to live with.
Bushes are plastic in my box, and original just good spray with WD40 2 or 3 times a year. Not sure brass is a good move.

Where did you get the Boxster adaptors from? Presume the fronts only being done??

[PeterK]

Yes fronts only.
I was sent drawings by Nige (on IB) and intended to make my own adapters, but a guy on FB (Ian Macmath) had had some sets made. I believe that he still has a couple of sets remaining, and at £90, it wasn’t worth trying to work out what grade of aluminium I needed to use. I have his contacts details if anyone wants them.
Ian Comerford (IB) kindly gave me some tips, including the necessary bolt lengths.

[911hillclimber]

Sounds good. Please can you pm Ian's details please Peter?
Ian is on here quite frequently, but can't recall his details. He is an old standing hillclilmber from a few decades ago.

If my refresh just done, not run-in yet is too weak might do the change in the summer. Those adaptors were the reason I did not go Boxster a few months back.
I presume you used the fronts off a 986 2.5 litre?

[rhd racer]

Sounds busy Peter.

Ian is 914/6 on here, so if anyone wants the adaptors drop him a PM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeterK]

I presume you used the fronts off a 986 2.5 litre?

Yes, the non-S callipers.
The S are red and non-S black, but I had red paint and am clearly a poser


PM sent with Ian’s contact details as he doesn’t pop in here as much as he used to do.