Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

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deano
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Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by deano »

If you had an ex-USA car over here, with dash converted to RHD many moons ago, and no plan to ever sell, would you convert it back to LHD all done properly if the opportunity presented itself ? why?

Would appreciate your opinions :blackeye:
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
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Gary71
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by Gary71 »

Depends on the quality of the the conversion, type of car, the stage of current restoration and personal preference.

- If it’s a good conversion using a RHD dash cut with correct smugglers box etc I’d leave it well alone. Especially if there is no intention to sell.

- If it’s a valuable car that that should be it’s original spec and it’s currently a bare shell, and it’s a bad conversion, and you can obtain a LHD dash/bulkhead then yes. Lots of ‘ands’ in that one though!

- If the area around the chassis number is disturbed now or at any point during the work it will forever have questions about it’s past so again not worth the effort.

Overall unless it’s a bodge job and the car is currently a bare shell I’d leave it.
deano
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by deano »

Let me ask in a slightly different way then

- do people think an average T for instance, converted properly to RHD (correct bulkhead etc. but with chassis number area preserved), is just as valuable or less valuable than if it was still original LHD (or was converted back to LHD properly)? :bounce:
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by Gary71 »

Original LHD is worth more than converted RHD.

If you convert it back again it’s probably neutral to the hours spent on metal work, dash, wiring and pedals!

But if you have no intention to sell why does it matter? :)
deano
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by deano »

These are all really good points and much appreciated.

The main driver is just a bee in the bonnet about making it original again - the conversion cost isn't much of a factor.

Whichever side the steering wheel is on doesn't seem to matter anymore - certainly doesn't to me. Although, I read somewhere recently that a RHD RS sells for twice the price of a LHD version, perhaps because of rarity rather than which side the steering wheel is on though... :cheers:
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
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hot66
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by hot66 »

I prefer the driving postition in a LHD aircooled , but at the end of the day build what is best for yourself.
James

1973 911 2.4S
1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder

1963 Honda C100 Supercub

Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast ;)
911hillclimber
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Re: Convert back to LHD, yes or no?

Post by 911hillclimber »

I bought my LHD/German 911T in 1988. It was an awful car, and needed everything.
I finished the car in lhd form in late 1989/1990 and drove it for 3 years before converting it to RHD using some original dash panels, DIY bulkhead panel cuts, RHD pedals etc. Extended the loom and so on.

Then, the car was worth in LHD form about £3500.

I converted it (2 weeks part time effort over a Xmas period) because the wife hated having to call if we could overtake or not. LHD is no bother to me having worked in USA/Europe for many years.
Biggest issue was getting a second hand dash top, but one came from a race car.

At the time, Club Autosport did a lot of conversions, but I've never seen one, but the cuts were harsh I'm told, and steering wheels were very close to the dash top.
My 911 changed rapidly over the years and 34 years on still have it, drives great and only a DDK'r would spot the conversion.

3 years ago I repainted the car and had cause to get close to all that conversion work, all safe and sound.

If your car is a keeper, than just leave it alone.
To do the reverse change the real panels you would need are only 3, the bulkhead panel would take some getting out if splitting factory welds.

Pic below is during the re build after the respray.
You can see the brake reservoir move, the retention of the smugglers box lid (no box underneath).

Image

Image
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
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