KS's hillclimbing odyssey

[KS]

It's been a couple of weeks, so here's an update, such as it is...

Bottom end of the engine is all together, allowing us to assess what cylinder spacers would be needed to achieve a 40 thou (OK, 1mm) deck height, which results in a CR of bang on 9.0:1. Seems like we need precisely 3mm. Problem: nobody in the UK stocks Type 4/914 cylinder spacers of anything like this thickness. Go online to my trusty friends at CSP in Germany, only to discover that they won't ship orders less than 200 Euros to the UK following you know what. OK, let's try BAS Ahnendorp. Bingo! Website allows me to place an order to the UK, with shipping of 13 Euros, making a total of 53 Euros. Place my order on Monday afternoon, stating that it was reasonably urgent etc. Get acknowledgement by return. All good. Until Thursday when they message me to say that there's a problem on the website and the shipping will be 65 Euros! For a padded envelope? Hmmm...

So, I vent my displeasure on Facebook and within minutes get a couple of messages, one from a friend in Germany who says leave it to him as Ahnendorp 'owes him', the other from a friend in France (Jean-René Feller, VW race engine builder of renown) who says he'd make me a set! German friend messages back and says all sorted and don't worry about payment, while Jean-René sends me a photo the next day showing four freshly machined spacers! How much do I owe you? I ask. Nothing - we've been friends for years, so don't worry. So I now have two sets of spacers... Joy! (PS - not my cylinders in the photo...).



Anyway, what else? Graham Rawlings, the bearded wonderman of Plymouth in whose workshop the engine build is taking place (to be honest, it's Graham doing the donkey work while I rush around spending money) has been ill, so work took a back seat (well, he was in hospital for three days, so I guess I'll let him off), but in the meantime I've sourced AN fittings for the fuel system, new fuel pump and filter, braided hosing, plugs, leads, plug caps, plug wire crimping tool (I've wanted one for so long and decided to bite the bullet), billet plug to blank off the distributor, coil pack (Ford...) and wiring, plus injectors and a load of other minor bits and bobs. It all adds up!

Graham's mate has almost finished the manifolds, cutting them and angling them out a few degrees so we can get a better shot from the injectors to go with a less obstructed port shape...



I also did some work on the lightweight panels, making stays to hold them open, and then decided to add a splash of colour until I can afford to get them painted. From feedback on social media, it seems to be a popular choice of colours.



Hopefully over the next two-three weeks, things should progress to the point where we can get it fired up and mapped. Oh, guess I'd better buy the ECU and persuade Graham to sell me his 48mm throttle bodies. This should be fun. First event at Wiscombe is in four weeks time. Can't wait!

[911hillclimber]

Very positive stuff!

Why 9:1 CR?
I too have a first meeting with the new engine at Prescott late April, we will have white knuckles each!

I'm assuming mine will survive the rolling road of course.

[KS]

Why 9.0:1? Type 4 engine doesn't run the coolest, has a crap combustion chamber shape... Love to run closer to 10.0:1 but also want it to live.

The heads I am using have a combustion chamber that is quite shallow, but wide, with a volume of around 61cc. To reduce that, would need to either weld up the chamber and spend ages machining, experimenting with chamber shape, or flycutting what is already a pretty shallow head. I don't want to reduce the deck height below 40thou, so 9.0:1 was a decent compromise – as the engine had been previously assembled, it had a CR of no more than about 8.0:1, if that... Typical US build to cope with low grade fuel.

[RobFrost]

Do those fins in the sump try to stop the oil moving to one side of the engine?

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The fins will add rigidity to unsupported flat sections of the case and prevent it resonating at certain engine speeds. Can't say whether that's their purpose.

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[rhd racer]

They will be to stop oil starvation in corners.

[rhd racer]

Looks like it is coming along well Keith

[RobFrost]

They will be to stop oil starvation in corners.

The crank runs longitudinally in this engine, I assume?

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[KS]

They will be to stop oil starvation in corners.

The crank runs longitudinally in this engine, I assume?

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Yes - but sadly those little fins contribute little to controlling oil surge and are more to do with aiding cooling. Surge is a problem which plagues these engines when pushed hard - the motor was never intended for this kind of application, originating as it did in the rather prosaic VW 411 and the Type 2 bus/camper. There are mods you can do to the oil pick-up to help control surge, but an Accusump is generally reckoned to be the most successful way to combat a drop in oil pressure on sharp (mainly left-hand) bends. It also allows you to pressurise the oil system ahead of start-up from cold, the point where most damage is done to bearings.

[RobFrost]

They will be to stop oil starvation in corners.

The crank runs longitudinally in this engine, I assume?

Yes - but sadly those little fins contribute little to controlling oil surge and are more to do with aiding cooling.

Sounds like you have it covered with the accusump. My point was, unless I'm mistaken, the fins run the wrong way to stop oil moving side to side anyway, although they may help you on acceleration / deceleration. The build's looking great, by the way. I don't guess you'll be venturing far enough North for us to see you racing up here?

[Anta]

They will be to stop oil starvation in corners.

The crank runs longitudinally in this engine, I assume?

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Yes - but sadly those little fins contribute little to controlling oil surge and are more to do with aiding cooling. Surge is a problem which plagues these engines when pushed hard - the motor was never intended for this kind of application, originating as it did in the rather prosaic VW 411 and the Type 2 bus/camper. There are mods you can do to the oil pick-up to help control surge, but an Accusump is generally reckoned to be the most successful way to combat a drop in oil pressure on sharp (mainly left-hand) bends. It also allows you to pressurise the oil system ahead of start-up from cold, the point where most damage is done to bearings.

Really exciting to read this Keith. Can’t beat a good engine build. I have a Type 4 in my 550 Spyder and even though (on the old motor) I only did some mild track days at Curborough and nothing sustained I did see the red oil light of doom come on a few times. On the new motor I went full dry sump, to be honest as much as anything to increase coolant! I also added a front cooler. I will dig out the spec for the motor and post up. Paul Foreman built it for me, it has a tiny bit more torque than HP on the rolling road and is such fun! Look forward to seeing you run at Prescott or Curborough! For weight, simplicity and cold start for your application that Accusump sounds ace, just read the blurb….

[Anta]

I think this was about the final spec…mighty fun!

• Engine Size 2143cc
Piper Dry Sump Pump with 6L Dry Sump Tank in Aluminium by Concept Racing
• Pistons 96mm Keith Black flat top, 22mm wrist pin to suit 74mm crank.
• H-Beam Rods for 74mm stroke crank.2.0l journal, 22mm wrist pin
• Heads Large Valve 44mm exhaust 38mm inlet. Single HD springs, oval exhaust ports "CU"
• 123 USB Distributer with phone app to show gauges and adjustable ignition maps, includes electronic rev limiter and security anti-theft remote distributer lock
• Uprated Rocker gear
• Gasket Set
• All new Bearings
• All new Oil Seals
• Case Studs ARP
• Clutch Kit Porsche 914
• WebCam Grind 86B to suit 74mm crank
• Flywheel machining to lighten and 5 dowel
• Straight cut cam gear
• Engine case machined to suit specifications and increase oil flow
• Barrels 96mm Eurorace
• DPR Crank 74mm, 2.0l journal. 5 dowel matched to flywheel.
• Aluminium pushrods heavy duty
• 911 8mm valve adjusters
• New Twin 40 Dellorto Carbs fully jetted to suit application on rolling road
• Replica Knect Style Aluminium Filters with K&N Inserts
• Mangnecor HT Leads

[KS]

Mine is basically 2258cc with 78mm AA forged crank, 5.132in H-beam rods with 22mm wrist pin and ARP bolts, 96mm JE forged pistons, AA Biral aluminium cylinders, AA 44 x 37 2-litre heads, WebCam 86a cam (for more torque), lightened flywheel with 215mm Kennedy Stage 2 clutch, uprated oil pump, Accusump etc, optional 13-row cooler (not sure it will be needed), SSI headers, Vintage Speed silencer. DTA ECU with 48mm throttle bodies and crank-fire ignition/fuelling. MBE built transmission with AFMSZ ratios and Quaife ATB diff. All good fun. I hope.

Sadly, as Graham Rawlings has been ill and in hospital, engine won't be ready just yet, so won't make the first three weekends of events at Wiscombe and Werrington. However, looks like I'll be driving (or double-driving) Adrian Crawford's 911 instead. Which should also be fun.

[70sThrowback]

I think this was about the final spec…mighty fun!

• Engine Size 2143cc
Piper Dry Sump Pump with 6L Dry Sump Tank in Aluminium by Concept Racing
• Pistons 96mm Keith Black flat top, 22mm wrist pin to suit 74mm crank.
• H-Beam Rods for 74mm stroke crank.2.0l journal, 22mm wrist pin
• Heads Large Valve 44mm exhaust 38mm inlet. Single HD springs, oval exhaust ports "CU"
• 123 USB Distributer with phone app to show gauges and adjustable ignition maps, includes electronic rev limiter and security anti-theft remote distributer lock
• Uprated Rocker gear
• Gasket Set
• All new Bearings
• All new Oil Seals
• Case Studs ARP
• Clutch Kit Porsche 914
• WebCam Grind 86B to suit 74mm crank
• Flywheel machining to lighten and 5 dowel
• Straight cut cam gear
• Engine case machined to suit specifications and increase oil flow
• Barrels 96mm Eurorace
• DPR Crank 74mm, 2.0l journal. 5 dowel matched to flywheel.
• Aluminium pushrods heavy duty
• 911 8mm valve adjusters
• New Twin 40 Dellorto Carbs fully jetted to suit application on rolling road
• Replica Knect Style Aluminium Filters with K&N Inserts
• Mangnecor HT Leads

Nice spec, I am nearly finishing building something similar with my 912E TypeIV, but its for road use not racing. I've gone for 96mm x 76mm KB (flat top) barrels and pistons. New H bean rods. New crank. Webcam494 cam. Weber 44 IDF's. Compression with no spacing or adjustments came out at 9.053:1 so happy with that outcome.

Of interest I also went for the bluetooth 123 distributer with new leads / coil. As i've not looked at this yet canI ask what curve you used? I will be sending to a rolling road once the engine is broken in, but would be good to have a good place to start from.

[Anta]

I think this was about the final spec…mighty fun!

• Engine Size 2143cc
Piper Dry Sump Pump with 6L Dry Sump Tank in Aluminium by Concept Racing
• Pistons 96mm Keith Black flat top, 22mm wrist pin to suit 74mm crank.
• H-Beam Rods for 74mm stroke crank.2.0l journal, 22mm wrist pin
• Heads Large Valve 44mm exhaust 38mm inlet. Single HD springs, oval exhaust ports "CU"
• 123 USB Distributer with phone app to show gauges and adjustable ignition maps, includes electronic rev limiter and security anti-theft remote distributer lock
• Uprated Rocker gear
• Gasket Set
• All new Bearings
• All new Oil Seals
• Case Studs ARP
• Clutch Kit Porsche 914
• WebCam Grind 86B to suit 74mm crank
• Flywheel machining to lighten and 5 dowel
• Straight cut cam gear
• Engine case machined to suit specifications and increase oil flow
• Barrels 96mm Eurorace
• DPR Crank 74mm, 2.0l journal. 5 dowel matched to flywheel.
• Aluminium pushrods heavy duty
• 911 8mm valve adjusters
• New Twin 40 Dellorto Carbs fully jetted to suit application on rolling road
• Replica Knect Style Aluminium Filters with K&N Inserts
• Mangnecor HT Leads

Nice spec, I am nearly finishing building something similar with my 912E TypeIV, but its for road use not racing. I've gone for 96mm x 76mm KB (flat top) barrels and pistons. New H bean rods. New crank. Webcam494 cam. Weber 44 IDF's. Compression with no spacing or adjustments came out at 9.053:1 so happy with that outcome.

Of interest I also went for the bluetooth 123 distributer with new leads / coil. As i've not looked at this yet canI ask what curve you used? I will be sending to a rolling road once the engine is broken in, but would be good to have a good place to start from.

Jonny, I don’t know what it was based on but I can export it by email to you if you PM me an email. You can just import it to the app and then load it onto the distributer. You can load a few and have a play on the rolling road - as long as they are safe! You should be able to compare it then to the standard starting point on their website. From memory my spec made about 135 / 140hp and I remember the torque was a couple higher than HP.

When you are playing with the 123 setup you need ignition on but motor not running, at this point you can also set the rev limiter etc. This is also how you “lock” it, ignition on, lock the distributer then key out, stops the car being started….just make sure you have a good phone backup running! Enjoy.

[neilbardsley]

I had the low oil pressure when tracking my 914 but the tuna can, larger sump has helped.

I think I have 9.2 compression ratio on mine. I was surprised the builder didn't go higher but Keith crappy head chamber shape explains why.

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