964 C2 - Rolling Resto

[911SE]

Scary story that about the ignition switch, you're doing a great job, thanks for posting.

Will be following your interior colour change closely as planning something similar with my 993, same horrid grey as yours.

[rhd racer]

Thanks Magnus. I am trying to eliminate the wiring and starting issues before I get a man out to fit an alarm / immobiliser. Seems the ideal time, am hoping he can rip out any remaining wires that exist from the last effort in exchange for easy routing and no interior refit. Seems a fair trade to me, and there is a small loom spliced into the ignition circuit best removed at the same time. Yes, I’m amazed that switch worked to be honest. All the load, and held together by well, not much. It certainly made up for the lack of NYE fireworks this year!

Also Wayne All these cars now need some love and affection due to age, over or under use? Your doing a great job pal.

Thanks Raymond. Absolutely right, there are a couple of nice cars available now for top money. One of them has replaced about 75% of what I have, and many of the others describe full rebuilds that really equate to an engine 6 years ago and some recent coil overs. I think there are a lot of cars out there which are up for good money that need a lot doing....

Thanks for the encouragement, am still enjoying the journey!

[Boydyrs]

You cannot buy what you are experiencing Wayne. When complete, until
Next mod, you will experience total satisfaction....I am sure.

[rhd racer]

I picked up a bunch of parts from my local OPC on Friday, the aim being to do the engine fan and head temp sensor this weekend, before moving onto further heating diagnosis. Unfortunately, they ordered the wrong sensor, so best laid plans and all that. I had researched all the parts before hand and the OPC was the cheapest after club discount applied,but the head sensor was something else! The correct part, when quoted, including a new connect to convert from 993 loom to 964 loom (they only supply the latter part now) was £280! So, I have ordered a Bosch alternative for £100 from Type911 instead.

Anyhow, I got on with the job in hand, and got as far as I could. First up, remove the trunking to the heat exchanger (which fell off, but is a complete nightmare to put back on, so looking forward to that already!)



The pipes you can see are the warm air pipes for the dizzies. Then two bolts, one in front, and one hidden, and the whole unit lifts away







Then a series of torx screws and the case splits in half to reveal the fan and motor



The old one is the white fan, the 2nd hand unit I picked up is the black on. The odd thing is that the existing fan will not power up using my 'safe' 9v power source (a 9v battery in a box with a switch), bt the new one would. I then tried to power up the old one off the car battery, and again no turny....Very strange, looks obviously deceptive



It was full of oil and crud though



All cleaned up, reassembled and ready to fit

[rhd racer]

Onto the head temp sensor.

First up, how to undo a sensor with a wire attached to it. I am sure there is a special tool, but in the interest of time and taking advantage of my little sideline in tool design which has become a 'thing' doing this car, I set ubout adapting a 14mm socket with an angle grinder and 1mm disc





Then, after a quick file down the inside, ready to try it



Bingo! Then to the rear of the car, it is behind a big rubber bung in the rear tin. Difficult to get the camera in there



And then socket attached, it would out perfectly.



The other end, containing the socket, is attached to a mounting bracket with two other sensors, held on by a locking plate







The sensor then just slides out of a slot (clever idea) and then remove through another grommet in the rear tin and it is out

[rhd racer]

With that job as far as I could take it, I moved onto another little job that will make life easier. On the Boxster I have a 1kg (yes 1kg!) battery that needs to be on a constant trickle with a special charger, so I cannot use that charger on the 964. I made a simply quick plug for it becasue it is constantly on / off charge. I therefore took advantage of one of the Lidl offers recently after my C-Tek packed up for the 964...

It comes with these, which are a pain, especially on a 964, and you have to lift out the carpet etc every time...



All loomed up and ready to solder



And connected up again (so I can still use these on my ride-on mower if needed)



And then the loom for the 964



Fitted (note cover over +ve terminal)





So now just a simple quick connect for the trickle charger.

[rhd racer]

I'm struggling to get out in the garage in the week because work has gone a bit mad - which is a nice problem to have in these odd times. However, Saturday mornings with Rad Mac & Huey are becoming a regular, and made some good progress today. First up was the new head temp sensor.

I could not test this at ambient temperature like the one Gus sent me, because it is a different connection type to the current loom. The reason for this is the 964 part is no longer made, and a 993 part replaces it. You therefore have to buy a new connector for the engine loom and swap it out to get everything working. Sensor first, the socket I modified worked perfectly



The rubber grommets went in really easily, despite some internet suggestions of them being a struggle. With it fed through into the engine bay, it needs to slide into the bracket - the new sensor having a clip which you push to allow it to sit where it needs to



The problem is that it would not slide far enough into the bracket, no matter what I did. It is designed to have a stop on it, but the stop was preventing it going far enough into the bracket, thus not allowing the retaining bracket to line up with the securing bolt



The only thing I could come up with, was to file the stop until I could get the sensor into the correct position. On the bench it would have taken about 30 seconds, but in the engine bay about half an hour ith the micro-files.



Until eventually I got it home and secured





So what should have been a 5 minute job took an hour. Then onto the connector - new and old



Peel back the rubber, and there was another beneath that. Despite having a proper set of terminal extractors, I could not get the old ones out, and did not want to pull too hard as they are tiny wires and could easily break, so I cut them off as long as I could





Then slid on the waterproof plugs (would have been easier to do this before stripping the wires as they were tight, but just managed by twisting them on. I decided to keep the old rubber boot as a 2nd line of defence, just as Porsche had done with the original. I just folded it right back on itself so I could complete the work



Then on with the connectors. The first was fine, the second I broke when clamping it up. Luckily, I had another in my parts bin from when I rewired the 914. It is a slightly different design, but still fits in the clip.



I had kept the old sensor, and checked the orientation of how it went in the car, and therefore which lead was live, which was earth (they may not be pole sensitive, but I did not want to cock it up at this stage!).



Then unto the new clip, at which point I had a doubt that the terminals might be vertical, rather than horizontal....so out with mirror and light but all is well and the correct orientation



All done







Before I reinstalled the fan, I started the car and it fired first time. Result

So then onto the fan, a job I wasn't much looking forward to. I went about it logically, repositioned the jubilee clips so the longest one was nearest the fan itself, which needed more wiggle room, and turned them around so I had better access to them to do them up. I also fitted the most difficult rubber seal first (onto the fan) and then slid the ducting tube into it, rather than trying to ease the rubber over the fan. This worked pretty exceptionally if I say so myself and went together really nicely. I used a bit of wasing up liquid solution on the joints to provide a bit of slippage, and I did not bolt the fan in until after the ducts were all secured







Did it fix the HVAC, well, I don't know! I thought it did, because the fan works on all 4 speeds. But, thi is only on low temp settings (below 18 degrees). As soon as you turn the heat up, the blowers stop - this is the same from cold or with the engine fully warmed up and hot. So I am not sure yet what that means, I suppose it gives some demisting capability but not defrosting. It's a start I guess.

I also connected a new CCU under the dash, which is a little control module for the dash clocks and warning lights. They are prone to fail, so I bought a good used unit to try and fix the fan belt warning light issue, but alas it remains lit during running. I guess this must be the clock itself, therefore, so something to do when the gauges are refurbed.

For now at least, I have a running car again

[rhd racer]

150 miles away from Peter I happened to be doing exactly the same thing- laying out my recent carpet purchase. I know some bits are in the wrong place, but I wanted to very roughly plan it out and make sure all was present and correct. I have to say, am really impressed



I have also had glue delivered and leatherette for my door panels. I guess I am going to have to pull my finger out and get on with it soon!


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[PeterK]

Crack on with it



Is it in yet ?

[rhd racer]

Ha, no Peter - distracted by the heater issues.

I had niggling doubts that I had no checked the relay, which is a weak point. I had checked the fuse and all was ok. So a quick investigation with the engine bay fuse cover off suggested all was not well. Firstly, a rather exposed permanent live feed, (I have taken the earth out of the holder in this pic), so battery disconnected and a further look...



Initially difficult to get at, as very short, I moved on to look at the relay. Oh dear...



And the relay itself shows signs of overheating too



I realised to do both repairs that the heater duct needed to come off, and with my new technique in my back pocket new it would go back on ok. But that wasn’t enough, so I decided the fuse box itself really needed to come out



That released the cable enough to look at the connector and realised that just one part of the clip was missing - in fact, the bit that was on my old fan on the bench



A quick repair with enough room to get it back together



The fuse holder all came apart to reveal the horror of the burn



These are a two piece carrier, and fortunately still used. I managed to find about 20 in the garage loft attached to a complete Boxster loom I have from the car I broke to build the race car. 2 jobs, 2 parts down from in stock spares.

I marked the carrier to the burnt end which is orientated towards you, and the new connector so I can connect everything in order without getting lost



The wires are all held by a barb on the female connectors. They are removed using a small screwdriver, or better still a removal tool



Due to the heat, mine was brittle and the plastic all broke up. As it turned out, this was helpful because the plastic was trapping the connector anyway, despite the barb being pushed in. The connector is toast, and needs replacing


That’s as far as I got tonight, but will order a new resistor and relay tonight. It is hard to say what caused the problem; motor or resistor, but I don’t want to run any of it until I know the lot is replaced and reliable. I might hopefully find that everything in the front is ok after all!


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[PeterK]

Wow - those over-heating electrics could have had a lot worse outcome.

[rhd racer]

Yes they could Peter. I started out trying to make the car more usable by fixing the dash fan, and the more I read the complex fan system in the engine bay has been responsible for a few fires. It all needs to work correctly not only to keep me warm, but also for the servo that directs unwanted hot air out of sort of waste heat flaps under the engine.

At least I am finding things, eliminating as I go!

[jwhillracer]

It was a lot more reliable when it was all done with levers and cables!

JW

[rhd racer]

Quite possibly JW!

I managed an hour on it this evening. First up, trying to unpick the old burnt connector so I did not end up with one set of wires to short to plug into the relay, or worse still not being able to get them to reach the relay with the fuse box back in situ. Using a pick and then a screwdriver, I managed to release the wire which was in decent nick. It took far more effort than expected, because it was a heavy duty connector due to the load. I won’t lie, blood was lost...



Then a new HD barbed connector on, soldered and heat sleeved



Then I worked round the carrier releasing wires in turn, and plugging them into the new carrier in the right position. Having released them by flattening the barn you need to prise it back to the open position, carefully so it doesn’t break off. More blood spilt using the pick....



A couple of the very small ones would not release at all, so since my Dremel died I had to resort to using belt sander to break down the old carrier. Soon it was done, and all wires in new homes



And then the locking cover in place



And finally a test run with the old relay



So now it is all ready for a refit, and the new ballast resistor and relay which come into my OPC in the morning...


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[Boydyrs]

I might have same issue Wayne. Can I bring car to you to fix?