BIB5566

[Gary71]

Yup white with green stripes is fog lights. How sad is it I know that?

The headlamp looms may also have redundant white with green extension loom taped up in a roll if not fitted.

[PMNorris]

Your pull switch with wires attached looks like a rear wiper switch. On mine (70MY) it is fitted under the dash binnacle below clocks.
Pretty sure the double green/white wires are fog light as you suggest.
Ian

Can you post a photo. I also have one of those switches, but its currently loose under the dash. On my car its connected to the fuel pump. I find it quite handy to be able to turn off the fuel pump when I'm faffing on my car. I also turn it off when I park the car, which I believe would puzzle the average car thief.

Paul

[knapmann]

Update. Things have been progressing slower now I actually have to go to work

A few questions to start with as per...

1) I cannot for the life of me find a part number for the gasket/seal that goes in this bulkhead hole where the heater pipe comes through.


2) I would also like a part number for the rubber wiring harness boot for the plug that attaches to the fuel pump

3) I have a mystery solid green wire behind the dash. There should only be one solid green wire on the whole car according to my wiring diagram, which is from the fuel tank sender to the gauge, I have identified this one, but I have a second solid green wire, which according to my diagrams should not exist...

4) Front indicator, and rear light housings, can these be re-silvered? assuming not, whats the best way to "restore" the reflective properties of these?

5) Are these floor panels RHD or LHD? I might be being dim but I cannot get them to fit, I suspect certain RHD parts of my car have found new homes elsewhere!



6) questions about these switches, I cant find any decent pictures online of these close up...
a) The ignition switch with the facia screwed down has ~10mm of play to the panel?
b) The ignition switch seems odd to me, from the position the key is inserted and removed it can be turned one click anti-clockwise? what is this for? more importantly is my assumption that the switch should be orientated so that the key insertion/removal is vertical, correct?
c) are these the correct bezels for the other two switches?



7) what is 12 and 14 for? does 12 have the correct bezel?


8.) what is this hole for?


9) where does the trip counter reset mount? is it the hole under the speedo like I assume? the cable seems to have a lot of unnecessary slack to reach there...


This week I have been mostly painting, floors!









oh and fitting clocks (is there anything more satisfying than fitting clocks into a dash?

[IanM]

Brush painting the floorpan with Hammerite is exactly what I did to my Beetle when I was 17 years old (and naive).

To give you an idea of how it should be done, here are a couple of pages from one of my favourite threads - "Another hot rod" by Flunder at the ESR.

https://www.early911sregistry.org/forum ... ght=hotrod
https://www.early911sregistry.org/forum ... ght=hotrod

Like your car, Flunder's car only needed a light restoration. He had the floorpan rubbed down to bare metal by hand and then sprayed it with metal etching primer.

From now on, please chat to the chaps here in DDK for advice before you do any big jobs. RHD non-sunroof 911's are just too special.

Good luck.

[Lightweight_911]

.

- &, unfortunately, by painting the top of the dash you have obliterated the painter's signature ...

.

[Lightweight_911]

a) The ignition switch with the fascia screwed down has ~10mm of play to the panel ?

There should be a set of thin aluminium trims - covered in basketweave vinyl for a '69 model' - that attach to the lower part of the dash (via double-sided tape) before the switches, etc are fitted.

Here's a picture of my old '69 LHD 912 to give you an idea:

[210bhp]

Oh dear, it was all going so well up to that point.............

That original floor looked so good.

Regards
Mike

[newto912]

Epoxy mastic from rustbusters is the way to go
Re the light housings
I am restoring a 69 RHD 912 and the light housings were originally painted white inside
I have redone mine with rustoleum
I also couldn’t get the indicator light to work , eventually worked out it was a poor ground between the original metal parts so had to drill a hole and connect a small bolt to ensure a good connection . I know not original and all that but couldn’t find another way
I recommend the sealey electric tool as well invaluable for checking electricalbits
If you want the insides bright and shiny aluminium or chrome spray
(should get my own resto thread going!)
Andrew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Darren65]

There's many really terrific restoration threads on this site, well worth the research and very informative

[jwhillracer]

I think some of the comments about this build have been a bit condescending and harsh.
This was obviously built by Paul Martin as a fun car to be enjoyed, in the different versions of it that he built. It's not a particularly special all numbers matching, open your cheque-book restoration to better than factory condition. It's a nice solid car, that is obviously giving the present owner a lot of pleasure (and doubtless pain as well, as these things do!), and will be there to be enjoyed, as the original owner intended.

Ours would be a very dull world if every 911 became an immaculate garage queen, instead of being used, driven and enjoyed.

JW

[911hillclimber]

And I was reluctant to say that this morning. ^^^

Inside the car that black paint (mine looked like that too when I painted it 31 years ago, and then I covered it with sound deadening, and then I stuck my 30 year old carpets on top of that. Could not see any paint.

My car is nowhere as good as this one by a million miles, but it is ok to me, awful to a few others!

Does not matter so long as the owner is content which I think he is.

As to the dash top signature/number in German crayon, nice to keep it if it was there, but again, covered soon for years to come.

Love this honest DIY thread and watching someone pick up all the details as they go along, just as I had to but there was only 2 books then, the internet had not been thought of, and not the entire global 911 expertise pool as there is today.

Onwards and upwards!

[Darren65]

I think some of the comments about this build have been a bit condescending and harsh......

.....I've not followed the thread in depth JW as too many questions I couldn't help with but don't think anyone has been particularly harsh from what I've read...if you're posting you have to take opinion whichever way....

....I'm all for people doing whatever they like with their cars, I always have, and if you plan to keep the car forever as a driver and don't care about other factors then good for you.....however if at some point you want to pass the car on there are other points you should consider and I personally would welcome the opinion of the knowledgeable on DDK....

....ultimately this is a great looking project that's longing to be back on road, I personally would be a little more sympathetic to originality but that's just my view.....whichever way it's clear there's a lot of love being put into the build and I'm sure it'll bring a lot of joy to Knapman

Good luck with the rest of the build

[knapmann]

Oh well, Im done with this thread now, its clear I will only get criticism as I go along as I will not be reaching the ridiculous expectations seemingly required. I never started it to be critiqued by the originality police and their fat wallets, telling me how naive I apparently am to not realise how better a finish I can get by writing blank cheques to people... If only I had consulted knowledgeable members then I would have known that all I needed to do was to pay someone else, like 10 grand and Id get a better floor pan paint job (an absolute top priority)! It literally never crossed my mind! I'm off to give my money tree a shake and see what fall out...

[cubist]

Oh well, Im done with this thread now, its clear I will only get criticism as I go along as I will not be reaching the ridiculous expectations seemingly required. I never started it to be critiqued by the originality police and their fat wallets, telling me how naive I apparently am to not realise how better a finish I can get by writing blank cheques to people... If only I had consulted knowledgeable members then I would have known that all I needed to do was to pay someone else, like 10 grand and Id get a better floor pan paint job (an absolute top priority)! It literally never crossed my mind! I'm off to give my money tree a shake and see what fall out...

10/10.

[Gary71]

Please don’t abandon the thread! Most of us on here are supportive of whatever approach anyone chooses to take with their car. Your car. Your choice.

And the paint under the sound proofing, under the carpet makes precisely zero difference to the driving pleasure. As for sanding and top coating the underside? Nope. Not for the real world.

This comes from someone who has replaced probably 40% of the original metal on their car, wrapped the loom in cloth tape, and painted the luggage bay with a brush and roller and will soon be doing the same for the rest of the ‘non A surface’ areas. I’m sure some will turn their noses up at that too, but as long as they do it quietly then I don’t care!

Obsessive open cheque book restorations are great if you can (or choose to) afford it but many seem to get sold immediately afterwards as they no longer get driven.

And isn’t work on, driving and enjoying the car what it’s all about?