Tappet Adjustment tips
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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Tappet Adjustment tips
Did my tappets today (on 911) for the first time - used this excellent article on pelican
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... adjust.htm
The only thing I can add to the article is that when I started doing them I was trying to look at what I was doing and was trying to slide the feeler guage in end-first.
I learned after a while that it was best to put the feeler guage next to where the gap should be and then twist the guage to slide the blade in sideways (if you imageine the blade of the feeler guage is a knife, then it's like trying to slice with it instead of trying to stab with it)
The other tip was when trying to get the feeler guage into the gap put your fingers in there as well - it's much easier to feel where the blade is going and also much easier to feel when you've got the blade in.
Don't know if either of these help but thought I'd pass them on anyway.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... adjust.htm
The only thing I can add to the article is that when I started doing them I was trying to look at what I was doing and was trying to slide the feeler guage in end-first.
I learned after a while that it was best to put the feeler guage next to where the gap should be and then twist the guage to slide the blade in sideways (if you imageine the blade of the feeler guage is a knife, then it's like trying to slice with it instead of trying to stab with it)
The other tip was when trying to get the feeler guage into the gap put your fingers in there as well - it's much easier to feel where the blade is going and also much easier to feel when you've got the blade in.
Don't know if either of these help but thought I'd pass them on anyway.
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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The other tip is to feed the feeler gauge in from the other rocker cover (from inlet cover if doing exhaust valves). This gives a straight run for the feeler gauge and means you don't have to bend the end over, giving much better 'feel' for the gap. I did mine with the engine out so you don't have the bodyshell in the way! But you can also do it with a helper in the bay and you underneath.
so you didn't use the 'bent' feeler gauge then ?MdR wrote:I've just been thru this with Mark/Sladey too!
I've just ordered mine from OPC Guildford part number 000.721.213.20 - it's about thirty quid.
Is the Porsche one the same as the 'Pelican' one?
James
1973 911 2.4S
1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder
1973 MGB Roadster
Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast
1973 911 2.4S
1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder
1973 MGB Roadster
Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 8810
- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Hi Robster - I got mine from OPC nottingham - wasn't any problem when I phoned up and spoke to Kevin in the parts department
It came with some spare blades as well which I hadn't appreciated when I ordered it (I ordered some extra ones).
Now idea how it differs from the pelican one or the porschshop one. I got mine from the OPC because I decided to do it last Friday and ordering from them meant I could pick it up on the Saturday morning.
It came with some spare blades as well which I hadn't appreciated when I ordered it (I ordered some extra ones).
Now idea how it differs from the pelican one or the porschshop one. I got mine from the OPC because I decided to do it last Friday and ordering from them meant I could pick it up on the Saturday morning.
Nope, I chickened out & decided on the 'correct' toolhot66 wrote:so you didn't use the 'bent' feeler gauge then ?
Dunno, it hasn't arrived yet nor do I have a Pelican one to compare it withhot66 wrote:Is the Porsche one the same as the 'Pelican' one?
Martin Rogers
+44 (0)7812 167547
'69 Ossi blue warmrod 3.0 911T
[sold & sorely missed]'67S '70 Targa T '75 914/4 x 2
+44 (0)7812 167547
'69 Ossi blue warmrod 3.0 911T
[sold & sorely missed]'67S '70 Targa T '75 914/4 x 2
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 8810
- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Re-did them again this week-end - it seemed to go a bit better this time (not had chance to give it a proper drive since but seemed OK on the limit drive I went on)
A few other pointers:-
Please note that if you are of a male persuasion then you may find it hard to read the following instructions without giggling at the combinations of words like 'feeler', 'wiggle', 'screw', 'mild resistance', and 'push down on it'. I recommend you have a little giggle, a titter even, before you start, in order to get it out of the way. This should make your subsequent reading of the article run a little more smoothly.
1. I bought a cranked ring spanner set - using this to tighten the nut around the adjusting screw was way better than 'normal' open-ended spanners, and it managed to fit on every one
2. When down the exhaust valves you've got room to get a screwdriver in there for the adjustment but on the intake valves it's a bit restricted. I used the screwdriver bit from a power screwdriver (you know the thing you put in your drill that is magentic and you can put different screw bits into). I found using that on it's own was fine - you never need to exert any screwing force. Then once the adjustment was made, as I tightened the nut I could still see the flats on the screwdriver bit and make sure the screw wasn't turning as well
3. For the adjustment itself:-
a) Firstly I backed off the locking nut, and loosened the screw
b) Wiggle the rocker and pull it up - making the gap you are going to measure as big as possible
c) I put the feeler guage in and gently wiggled it.
d) Whilst wiggling it I tightened the screw under it stopped me wiggling the feeler gauge. I then backed off a bit - about one sixteenth of a turn - that gave me the 'mild resistance' required.
e) When turning the screw try NOT to push down on it (like you would normally when screwing a screw in) - doing this will make them seem tighter than they are - if at all possible try and just turn the screw with NO downward pressure.
f) With the screw in the right position I then tightened up the locking nut by hand - I was able to get this firm enough with my fingers so it wouldn't move then I reached for the ring spanner
4. I've heard a recommendation that whilst you are tightening the locking nut leave the feeler guage in so you know it hasn't closed it off.
5. I bought a torque wrench that went down to 6lb ft. I was amazed at how little pressure it was to torque the head covers back down.
I'm not trying to become professor tappet or anything, and I'm still very new to it myself, it's just that if I have to do the job again I'll remember all these things - If I'd known them before I started it would have been easier.
A few other pointers:-
Please note that if you are of a male persuasion then you may find it hard to read the following instructions without giggling at the combinations of words like 'feeler', 'wiggle', 'screw', 'mild resistance', and 'push down on it'. I recommend you have a little giggle, a titter even, before you start, in order to get it out of the way. This should make your subsequent reading of the article run a little more smoothly.
1. I bought a cranked ring spanner set - using this to tighten the nut around the adjusting screw was way better than 'normal' open-ended spanners, and it managed to fit on every one
2. When down the exhaust valves you've got room to get a screwdriver in there for the adjustment but on the intake valves it's a bit restricted. I used the screwdriver bit from a power screwdriver (you know the thing you put in your drill that is magentic and you can put different screw bits into). I found using that on it's own was fine - you never need to exert any screwing force. Then once the adjustment was made, as I tightened the nut I could still see the flats on the screwdriver bit and make sure the screw wasn't turning as well
3. For the adjustment itself:-
a) Firstly I backed off the locking nut, and loosened the screw
b) Wiggle the rocker and pull it up - making the gap you are going to measure as big as possible
c) I put the feeler guage in and gently wiggled it.
d) Whilst wiggling it I tightened the screw under it stopped me wiggling the feeler gauge. I then backed off a bit - about one sixteenth of a turn - that gave me the 'mild resistance' required.
e) When turning the screw try NOT to push down on it (like you would normally when screwing a screw in) - doing this will make them seem tighter than they are - if at all possible try and just turn the screw with NO downward pressure.
f) With the screw in the right position I then tightened up the locking nut by hand - I was able to get this firm enough with my fingers so it wouldn't move then I reached for the ring spanner
4. I've heard a recommendation that whilst you are tightening the locking nut leave the feeler guage in so you know it hasn't closed it off.
5. I bought a torque wrench that went down to 6lb ft. I was amazed at how little pressure it was to torque the head covers back down.
I'm not trying to become professor tappet or anything, and I'm still very new to it myself, it's just that if I have to do the job again I'll remember all these things - If I'd known them before I started it would have been easier.
Tappets
Have you thought of an item called a Click-Adjust.
Its available fropm a firm called Frosts. (same company mentioned re Por cleaning products.)
Click adjust is an item which has a screwdriver center with a socket tool on its outside. Say a half inch acceptor. It then has a handle which opperates on the basis of one click equalling one thou.
You place the unit with the correct socket over the screwdriver part, and having closed the tappet right down, locate the whole unit onto the tappet retainer nut. Unturn the screw listening for a click. 4 clicks = 4thou. Once done use the lever attached to the socket and the screwdriver part to hold the tappet screw still, tighten the tappet nut.
All sounds complex but you honestly dont even have to look just use your ears.
I'll try and post a picture if poss. (cost approx £21) .
Saves a lot of knuckle skin.
Steve
Its available fropm a firm called Frosts. (same company mentioned re Por cleaning products.)
Click adjust is an item which has a screwdriver center with a socket tool on its outside. Say a half inch acceptor. It then has a handle which opperates on the basis of one click equalling one thou.
You place the unit with the correct socket over the screwdriver part, and having closed the tappet right down, locate the whole unit onto the tappet retainer nut. Unturn the screw listening for a click. 4 clicks = 4thou. Once done use the lever attached to the socket and the screwdriver part to hold the tappet screw still, tighten the tappet nut.
All sounds complex but you honestly dont even have to look just use your ears.
I'll try and post a picture if poss. (cost approx £21) .
Saves a lot of knuckle skin.
Steve
Sounds good;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU
Steve, have you used one on a 911 - do they work ok? Is there enough clearance past the h/exchangers?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU
Steve, have you used one on a 911 - do they work ok? Is there enough clearance past the h/exchangers?
Click Adjust
I have used one before and they work well makes it easier to do.
However I have not tried it on a porsche engine with exchangers in place. Sorry.
Steve
However I have not tried it on a porsche engine with exchangers in place. Sorry.
Steve