70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
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911GP
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Richard,
Nice work on the oil and fuel system. Looks great.
Kind regards
Gitesh
Nice work on the oil and fuel system. Looks great.
Kind regards
Gitesh
- inaglasshouse
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Today's fun: it's on its wheels. And I didn't drop it. My beloved refused to help, rather unkindly suggesting that I might over-react in case of an error....


Last edited by inaglasshouse on Wed Mar 06, 2019 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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BILLY BEAN
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Excellent progress Richard. Something of a milestone. Can't think why your significant other was nervous about helping.
Rust Never Sleeps
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Thanks Kirk. I hear your car reached a similar stage very recently?
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BILLY BEAN
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Yes Richard that is correct but you have made quite swift progress by comparison. However, mine has been a long time in the making. Sitting on some slave wheels. Engine build commenced this week also. Must get a move on and get the wheels finished. Regards, Kirkinaglasshouse wrote:Thanks Kirk. I hear your car reached a similar stage very recently?
Rust Never Sleeps
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Through-tunnel plumbing, etc
Per the pics, the various fuel lines, brake lines, cables and electrical bits at the back end, and through the tunnel, are done.
They make the nice clean shell look really untidy.
I Think my next resto might focus only on being nice to look at, so I can get rid of most of this clutter.






Per the pics, the various fuel lines, brake lines, cables and electrical bits at the back end, and through the tunnel, are done.
They make the nice clean shell look really untidy.
I Think my next resto might focus only on being nice to look at, so I can get rid of most of this clutter.






- inaglasshouse
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
The more observant may notice that I am missing the RH rear brake caliper. I also have a large puddle of brake fluid on the garage floor. Two puddles, in fact - the front left also leaked. So they both need re-re-building.
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Thanks for posting those detailed rear end photos Richard. Very helpful as usual.
Car is looking exceptionally nice and will look more like a car (to you) now on its wheels. Another milestone. You are doing a very professional and careful job. Keep us posted on what the issues are with the calipers.
Regards
Mike
Car is looking exceptionally nice and will look more like a car (to you) now on its wheels. Another milestone. You are doing a very professional and careful job. Keep us posted on what the issues are with the calipers.
Regards
Mike
_____________________________
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73 RS (Sold)
67 S
Mint T (Sold)
996 Turbo (Sold)
73 2.4E (home after 25 years) and Sold again
73T targa (signal yellow project)
1953 Vauxhall Velox
914/6
1963 356B
https://www.mybespokeroom.com/
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Great work Richard. Clever video jobbie too.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
They look far worse when the driveshafts are hanging down...
Great tidy progress.
If it helps, my wife won't help me either due to a certain level of reaction from me....
To anything she does.....
And that's after 41 years of marriage.
Great tidy progress.
If it helps, my wife won't help me either due to a certain level of reaction from me....
To anything she does.....
And that's after 41 years of marriage.
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
They look like very expensive (good ?) dampers !! excuse me if this was subject of much (any) discussion earlier.
(and please get the rubbers in the middle of the clips - not at the edge )
(and please get the rubbers in the middle of the clips - not at the edge )
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GL 1800 Tour DCT, for pleasure / Fantic 240 Professional - play
Rally 911 (1966) build parked for a while
Rally 928 (work started again - inc serious weight loss programe !)
.... and now another VW Up GTI owner.
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Looks great Richard, what a good colour!
Noticed you went with the original inner trailing arm bush bolts that make removal impossible with engine in. on mine I made a bolt with split pin and castellated nut on the inside so it could be removed without any major traumas.
Richard
Noticed you went with the original inner trailing arm bush bolts that make removal impossible with engine in. on mine I made a bolt with split pin and castellated nut on the inside so it could be removed without any major traumas.
Richard
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jjeffries
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Where were the calipers leaking, from the joint between the two halves, or from the cylinders? John.
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Thanks all.
I did consider the split trailing arm bolts (and indeed the metalwork tweak that allows a gearbox drop with the engine in situ). But decided neither was worthwhile for my usage.
Thanks for pointing out the rubbers. Will sort immediately!
Suspension is by exe-tc, based in Exeter. Briefly discussed here:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=48740&p=560753
I don't know if it's any good. I do know that it's not cheap. But if it lives up to expectations it seems pretty good value, given the build quality, adjustability, and the extremely helpful tech support. The front struts, in particular, are things of beauty.
I will report back if and when this car ever sees more suspension action than being gently lowered to the ground from a jack. Dampers coped fine with that.
Actually, come to think of it, 3 of the 4 calipers have leaked....
Left rear had a small leak from the centre line, where the square-section O-Ring around the through-bolt had not seated properly. This was due to a small burr on one side, which had probably always been there, but presumably on previous assembly the O-Ring had by luck managed to make a seal. Sorted now, re-fitted and re-tested.
Left front is an aluminium S caliper. It leaked from the side cover plate (the square cover secured by 4 bolts). On close inspection this was probably due to pitting - they do corrode, unfortunately. Currently having a little bit of machining done to re-face that surface, which I hope will give the O-ring a fighting chance.
Right rear was initially fine, but recently suffered a total failure of the main piston seal. I reckon I must have damaged it somewhere along the line, with idiot spannering. Either that or my initial test pressures weren't quite enough to pop it, but later when I fairly vigorously tested the system to check that the left rear is indeed fixed I pushed it over the edge. Idiot spannering more likely.
On the bright side, and very surprisingly, my home-made stainless brake pipes have been fine so far. Touch wood.
Cheers, Richard.
I did consider the split trailing arm bolts (and indeed the metalwork tweak that allows a gearbox drop with the engine in situ). But decided neither was worthwhile for my usage.
Thanks for pointing out the rubbers. Will sort immediately!
Suspension is by exe-tc, based in Exeter. Briefly discussed here:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=48740&p=560753
I don't know if it's any good. I do know that it's not cheap. But if it lives up to expectations it seems pretty good value, given the build quality, adjustability, and the extremely helpful tech support. The front struts, in particular, are things of beauty.
I will report back if and when this car ever sees more suspension action than being gently lowered to the ground from a jack. Dampers coped fine with that.
Actually, come to think of it, 3 of the 4 calipers have leaked....
Left rear had a small leak from the centre line, where the square-section O-Ring around the through-bolt had not seated properly. This was due to a small burr on one side, which had probably always been there, but presumably on previous assembly the O-Ring had by luck managed to make a seal. Sorted now, re-fitted and re-tested.
Left front is an aluminium S caliper. It leaked from the side cover plate (the square cover secured by 4 bolts). On close inspection this was probably due to pitting - they do corrode, unfortunately. Currently having a little bit of machining done to re-face that surface, which I hope will give the O-ring a fighting chance.
Right rear was initially fine, but recently suffered a total failure of the main piston seal. I reckon I must have damaged it somewhere along the line, with idiot spannering. Either that or my initial test pressures weren't quite enough to pop it, but later when I fairly vigorously tested the system to check that the left rear is indeed fixed I pushed it over the edge. Idiot spannering more likely.
On the bright side, and very surprisingly, my home-made stainless brake pipes have been fine so far. Touch wood.
Cheers, Richard.
- inaglasshouse
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Re: 70 S, RHD, Signal Orange, UK->Australia->UK
Obviously I know better than Porsche
Because I'm a genius, unlike those Porsche engineers, I've decided I can do better than them in a couple of areas.
Hence the non-standard cables highlighted below:

The lower one in the pic is for the throttle. I'm not a massive fan of the standard throttle linkage on a '70 car. It's an awful lot of parts to do a simple job:

Plenty to go wrong, in an area where going wrong can have unhappy consequences.
This thread on Pelican suggested an alternative scheme:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... cable.html
All the missing bits in this version of the diagram are replaced by a "Morse" cable.

In my case the specific type of cable I have used is called a Teleflex TFXTreme. Most commonly used on powerboats, I believe, and available from your friendly local yacht chandlery. Incidentally in buying these it turns out that, although Yacht Tax seems to exist, it's nowhere near as ridiculous as Porsche Tax.
Anyway.... this sort of thing:


The advantages of this type are high quality materials (corrosion resistant) and, importantly, small bend radius - nominal spec is 100mm minimum, but (in new-out-of-the-box state anyway) they remain smooth well beyond that spec. Point is they are flexible enough to easily make the control run for the throttle.
Final note - obvs my genius statement is slightly tongue in cheek. In fact Porsche changed the design later on, to get rid of all that bell-crank on the side of the gearbox nonsense. So a 964 has a cable run fairly similar to mine (but less flashy cable).
Because I'm a genius, unlike those Porsche engineers, I've decided I can do better than them in a couple of areas.
Hence the non-standard cables highlighted below:

The lower one in the pic is for the throttle. I'm not a massive fan of the standard throttle linkage on a '70 car. It's an awful lot of parts to do a simple job:

Plenty to go wrong, in an area where going wrong can have unhappy consequences.
This thread on Pelican suggested an alternative scheme:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... cable.html
All the missing bits in this version of the diagram are replaced by a "Morse" cable.

In my case the specific type of cable I have used is called a Teleflex TFXTreme. Most commonly used on powerboats, I believe, and available from your friendly local yacht chandlery. Incidentally in buying these it turns out that, although Yacht Tax seems to exist, it's nowhere near as ridiculous as Porsche Tax.
Anyway.... this sort of thing:


The advantages of this type are high quality materials (corrosion resistant) and, importantly, small bend radius - nominal spec is 100mm minimum, but (in new-out-of-the-box state anyway) they remain smooth well beyond that spec. Point is they are flexible enough to easily make the control run for the throttle.
Final note - obvs my genius statement is slightly tongue in cheek. In fact Porsche changed the design later on, to get rid of all that bell-crank on the side of the gearbox nonsense. So a 964 has a cable run fairly similar to mine (but less flashy cable).
Last edited by inaglasshouse on Tue Apr 09, 2019 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

