handbrake cable

[Dougieboy1]

idling away a 1 hr delay in dublin airport so dont have access to photos so here goes

During dismantling the car (72 911) for restoration, i removed the handbrake and cable. On reassably, i noticed some bits of the mechanism were in fact missing, e.g. 1 of the bow ties in each hub, the plastic bit on the trailing arm that the spacer tube fits through and the cable suspension part (flexible thin plastic rectangle with hole at either end)

As a result, i am finding it difficult to
1. Know where the flexible plastic suspension piece goes - i presume it attaches the handbrake cable to something under the car so it doesnt move around
2. Understand the relationship between the spacer tube, the cable sheath and the 2 lock nuts on the threaded end of the cable. sheath The cable and the threaded end of the sheath clearly go through the spacer tube which in turn sits inside the white plastic bit that is bolted to the trailing arm. What therefore is the point of the 2 locking nuts on the threaded end of the cable sheath?

any suggestions gratefully received as i can find anything in the manual that says why or how to adjust these lock nuts


thanks

[Lightweight_911]

The white plastic support pieces attach to brackets on the rear trailing arms.

The purpose of the 2 nuts is to allow you to adjust the 2 handbrake cables (one at each rear wheel) so that the 'equalizer' in the tunnel is parallel to the rear axles/torsion tube which means that when you pull the handbrake up, both rear brakes are applied equally.

This might help:

[Mike911scrs]

HI Dougieboy1

Page T22 and T 23 will tell you how to adjust the brakes and cables. This is in the old Manual with a White 1 on the end and the supplements in.

I adjust slightly diffrent to this , as I back off the 17mm nuts, then pull the handbrake up 1 click, then adjust the hand brake in the drum as tight as it will go on both sides, then back off untill free (usualy around 3 clicks in the drum), then turn the 17mm nuts up evenly on both sides untill the brakes start to lock, with a even thread on each cable lock the 2 ,17mm nuts and then let the hand brake off both should be free and on a pull of the hand brake, usualy 2 clicks both rear brakes are locked.

as long as the toggles in the drum are not worn you should have a working hand brake, with only the adjustment in the drum/disc to keep a check on every 12,000 miles or 1 a year, if you are not putting the milage on the car

regards mike

[Dougieboy1]

thank both for the photo and the manual reference - i had completely missed page T22 which clears everything up.

I am still curious about this plastic strap thingummy



It clearly folds back on itself and a bolt goes through the holes to creating a cradle in which the handbrake cable rests. There is one in the PET for each cable but as these were missing on my car, i have no idea what they attach to to suspend the cable.

Any thoughts?

[inaglasshouse]

Hi Andrew
As you can see from this pic on Dave’s ST build thread, they attach to a small bracket near the bracket for the hard-flexible brake line transition.
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=42628&start=225#p539137
On my car I only have the bracket on the LH side. I thought this was wrong, but notice that Dave’s is the same, in this pic at least.... any thoughts on that?

[911hillclimber]

My 73T has the tab on both sides so both cables are kept away from various moving parts.

[Dougieboy1]

incredibly helpful, especially photo of Dave's car. I just had a look at my car and i have 2 tabs rather than 1 but looking in the parts book, it lists only one suspension loop. So it looks like earlier cars went with 1 and later cars had 2. I am assuming this nearside loop as shown in Dave's photo also carries the clutch cable as well as the handbrake cable which has the same suspension arrangement according to the parts manual.

[Mike911scrs]

HI Dougieboy1

the strap holds the L/H handbrake cable and the heater cable, out of the way of the throttle linkage, the clutch cable should not be clamped it there, the clutch cable should be free with a bend/ark over the top of the throttle linkage on the gearbox and run close to the gearbox oil filler plug on the side of the gearbox

regards mike

[Dougieboy1]

thanks mike, thank god for DDK expertise!!!

[inaglasshouse]

Thanks Mike, helps me too

[911hillclimber]

You would be going some to get the clutch cable up there.
Lots of cables can get strapped to those tabs.
Good for DDK!