Morning all
My new lightweight engine mount bar has arrived and in "pre-checking" what's involved to replace existing, it struck me that the job might be less simple than anticipated!
Does this require dropping the engine a few inches (ie still attached at gearbox mounts) to give space to manipulate/move the bar out once the two side engine mounts have been released and the carrier unbolted? Am I making this complex or is there a simpler way?
Any thoughts/experience welcomed!
Many thanks
Replacing engine mounting bar - pre-job question
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Magnum
- DDK slapper chatter
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- Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Replacing engine mounting bar - pre-job question
Magnus
1972 3.2 RS lightweight. Still a bit scary...
1987 3.2 Carrera. Sold..
1972 Alfa 1750 GTV. Sold...
1971 911E in Silver. So lovely, sold..
1971 911S. sold....
1972 BMW CSL. Stupidly sold...
1968 Land Rover SIIa SWB..rusted in half...
1972 3.2 RS lightweight. Still a bit scary...
1987 3.2 Carrera. Sold..
1972 Alfa 1750 GTV. Sold...
1971 911E in Silver. So lovely, sold..
1971 911S. sold....
1972 BMW CSL. Stupidly sold...
1968 Land Rover SIIa SWB..rusted in half...
-
Mike911scrs
- I luv DDK!
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:54 am
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Re: Replacing engine mounting bar - pre-job question
HI Magnus
are you using a ramp or is the car on it's wheels, if you have the car on it's wheels, you will need to jack up the car/engine to take the weight off the suspension,
also disconect the gear linkage shaft in the car, when you have the mounting bolts all loose (6) lower the engine to clear the engine cradle/cross bar, take care to check the fuel pipes. OIL feed pipe, and the 14 pin Elec' connecter,
apart from that , fit the bar, fit all bolts/nuts loosly/nipped, then lower the car/engine , THEN tighten all bolts,
make sure there are no fuel leaks, wire connections off, and re-fit the gear linkage, road test,
any vibration, loosen the engine cradle (4bolts/nuts) and run the engine then re-tighten, if you still have vibration check the mounting bar is the correct side UP and not touching the under side of the chassis mountings in the engine bay.
regards mike
are you using a ramp or is the car on it's wheels, if you have the car on it's wheels, you will need to jack up the car/engine to take the weight off the suspension,
also disconect the gear linkage shaft in the car, when you have the mounting bolts all loose (6) lower the engine to clear the engine cradle/cross bar, take care to check the fuel pipes. OIL feed pipe, and the 14 pin Elec' connecter,
apart from that , fit the bar, fit all bolts/nuts loosly/nipped, then lower the car/engine , THEN tighten all bolts,
make sure there are no fuel leaks, wire connections off, and re-fit the gear linkage, road test,
any vibration, loosen the engine cradle (4bolts/nuts) and run the engine then re-tighten, if you still have vibration check the mounting bar is the correct side UP and not touching the under side of the chassis mountings in the engine bay.
regards mike
-
Magnum
- DDK slapper chatter
- Posts: 476
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Re: Replacing engine mounting bar - pre-job question
Thank you so much Mike and I couldn't possibly have asked for more experience than this!
Have a great day!
Kind regards
Have a great day!
Kind regards
Magnus
1972 3.2 RS lightweight. Still a bit scary...
1987 3.2 Carrera. Sold..
1972 Alfa 1750 GTV. Sold...
1971 911E in Silver. So lovely, sold..
1971 911S. sold....
1972 BMW CSL. Stupidly sold...
1968 Land Rover SIIa SWB..rusted in half...
1972 3.2 RS lightweight. Still a bit scary...
1987 3.2 Carrera. Sold..
1972 Alfa 1750 GTV. Sold...
1971 911E in Silver. So lovely, sold..
1971 911S. sold....
1972 BMW CSL. Stupidly sold...
1968 Land Rover SIIa SWB..rusted in half...

