Machine mounts - how the f*** does this go together

[sladey]

Hi

As some of you know I am steadily going deeper and deeper into the world of lathes.

I just bought a bigger lathe and to make it easier to level I bought some adjustable isolating feet

This is how they came (I got 3)


Now the big washer is cupped


So it goes on top like this


The threaded bar has a hex cut in one and and there's a hex nut that fits over it- to give you more purchase when turning it


At the other end they have flattened the thread for a couple of turns. I wondered if it's an accident but it's the same on all 3 of them. You can probably make it out in this pic


I'm wondering whether you screw that into the black bit until you get to the dodge threads and somehow that jams it in there - so when you turn the threaded bar using the hex, it turns the black bit (which is threaded and moved up and down in the base)

This is it all together



So my questions are these:-
Firstly have I got the basic assembly idea right - will the dodgy thread make the bar stick in the black base? (Doesn't seem like a very secure method of fixing to me)

Secondly the bar is too long so I'm going to have to cut it down and damage another bit of thread - any suggestions on the best way to do it

Thanks in advance for any help you can give

[sladey]

After thinking it through a bit more I think I may have Sussex it.

I'm thinking the damaged thread is a red herring - it was used to clamp the bar while they machines the end of it.

I'm thinking:-

1. You level it by hitting the ears of the black bit one way or the other
2. The nut and washer then hold it in place and the hex end is so you can tighten the nut without the bar just turning

Am I right?

[PeterK]

Some more clues please .....
Do the blue and black bits separate ? Assuming yes.

What does the base of the blue bit look like underneath ? - could the threaded bar be fixed at that end so that the black bit climbs the threaded bar (when you hit it around) ?

What access to the threaded bar have you got when it is in the foot of the lathe ? - will you have access to the top ?

Can you get away with only 3 ? If so, I assume that you're replying three of the original lathe feet
Peter

[911hillclimber]

I think Peter is correct.
The short threaded length into the floor pad and tight.
Black jacking spinner on the stud down loose to the pad.
Domed washer greased top face to the underside of the lathe corner
Locking nut on top etc.

Presume one corner of the lathe is hard to the floor on a statick block minimum the thickness of the pad, spinner and washer.
Jack each of the 3 adjustable so to level and ensure no twist in the lathe base.

[sladey]

Thanks for the comments - here's a better picture of the base and as you can see it's got a large thread going into the base. So turning it will give the required movement. Greasing the domed washer is a good idea.


The more I think about it the more I realise that the machine needs to sit on this nice big thread and can't be sitting on that M12 thread. So yes I'm pretty sure I'll adjust the height by moving the ears of the black thing.

I will have access to the top of the threaded bar once installed

I got three instead of 4 because the manual said there were 3 mounting holes and one adjusting hole - that adjusting one has some sort of screw in it - with the size of these it might not be long enough. But I could always either order a 4th one of these or shim under the adjuster

[fetuhoe]

Mark,

Obviously the machine needs to be installed level of the main body may either twist or bend.

The block used under the adjusting corner need to be the highest point so all of the 3 adjusters can be raised to achieve the correct level.

I guess these adjusters are also anti-vibration because you will also need to ensure that the machine doesn't skate around or you will lose the level.

[911hillclimber]

Last pic changes things!
The jacking is on the black spinner and the long stud simply screws in rich into the spinner to the swaged thread.
The lathe then sits on the greased washer, grease on the underside too, and away you jack. when right lock it all down with the two m12 nuts.
There is not much adjustment range is there? Might have to add shims under the bases depending on the floor.
As Chris says, you need to ensure the lathe does not 'walk' during use. Properly adjusted, it should stand still, but I would add 2 angled corner feet on diagonally opposed mounts to tie it down from walking sideways due to vibrations.
In my rolling mill days I've seen some machine tools move quite a lot and quickly! They were a bit heavier though than your nice little lathe! A light machine will move readily.
The pros take a long time to get the mounts just right, so worth the time.

[sladey]

Thanks for the comments.

There is about an inch of adjustment range which is plenty. I've moved on from "my nice little lathe" and now have this beauty - this is part way through the levelling process



I've now got it so that the level appears to be spot on length ways and cross-ways all along the bed. However the carriage doesn't move as freely when I move it to the right so I've obviously got some twist in the bed.

WIll work on it some more tomorrow


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[911hillclimber]

Lovely lathe.
Yes, spend lots of time sorting it and ensuring the position is stable.
Those pro fitters spent ages gettin it right at work on 2 precision punch presses at my last place at work, each press was 1/2 million euros each...
They had massive streams of impacts, mounted in rubber base and were perfect after Tweeks during trials.
Good you have a before feel for the slides.
Envious.