Plating and parts preparation

[LMR]

Folks

Can anyone recommend somewhere to get some small components plated? I will probably go for zinc but I am open to options. Has anyone tried doing this at home with one of the kits available? And has anyone tried parts preparation using a vibratory tumbler available from Frost?

[911hillclimber]

I have done the DIY route on my last motorcycle restoration in bright zinc.
TBH it is not worth the hassle and the cost /part is not good, and quality is questionable.
Getting things rust-free is a major issue (I bought my own grit blasting cabinet)

Google for platers in your area or buy a classic motorcycle magazine, lots of platers advertise in them.

I am about to restore another bike, and will not DIY plating this time.

[Ashley James]

To remove rust simply place components in vinegar. It's very effective. Afterwards a solution of bicarbonate of soda shines them up.

[Nick Moss]

Zinc plating is a cheap process. Why cut corners? Use a professional to get it done right. Put your location in your profile, it will help us advise a local plater. I use YB Plating in Crawley.

[Nige]

As Nick says, in the past I've taken buckets and boxes of stuff ranging from nuts and bolts to spring plates and larger stuff. I use Nun Street Platers in Derby, each box or bucket is usually about £25-40, drop it off and then about a week later pick it up all nice and shiny. I don't think there is much point in DIYing.

I think the whole suspension refurb on my car which included powder coating the bigger stuff (A Arms, etc) and zinc passivate on other stuff (nuts, bolts, adjusters, etc) was about £100

[911hillclimber]

The ebay kits come with 'de-rusting' solutions (use after grit blast etc) but it all takes ages and the final finish is not consistent.

As above, just use the pros local to you and all is good.
Early cars were yellow passivated which needs chrome6, a nasty heavy polluting material and might be tricky to get done now, but bright zinc is really bright esp on a good surface.(can look tarty)

Weber carbs etc look right with yellow passivation, not so good in clear (bright) colour.
I think I saw a 'satin' zinc plate finish at a recent classic bike show, but could be wrong.

A week turn-round is good going in my experience and it was my impatience to this delay (I was quoted 4 weeks for bike parts locally) that led me to ebay/DIY.

[LMR]

Thanks folks

I have found a chap in Redditch who I am going to try out. I used to work in Derby, if only I was doing this a year ago.....

[redrobin911]

Can I ask the same question but for Northern Ireland - I've found no one who zinc or chrome plates, so I need to find someone in the UK who is reasonably priced, who can do both (if possible) and has a realistic turnaround time. If there is some in the Rep of Ireland - let me know. If I have to send to two different companies in the UK - let me know.

[fetuhoe]

'Yellow' chromate finishes were quite common with hexavalent chrome but for all general applications this has effectively been banned both in the EU and USA as any contaminants created are seriously carcinogenic. The RoHS directive effectively saw then end of this technique in around 2006.

The darker the finish using hexavalent chromium the better the protection and starting with yellow it moved through olive to black.

Modern 'Yellow' Zinc finishes use a Trivalent chrome and in general are less effective at inhibiting rust and last for around 80 hours in a neutral salt spray environment.

The vast majority of platers provide either clear passivation - sometimes called 'blue' or a yellow and in some cases black.

Unlike hexavalent finishes the colour of trivalent systems seems to have little effect on corrosion resistance.

Depending on the nature and size of the parts you will need a company with either a 'barrel' or a rack plating capability and not all platers have both.

I would expect to plate caliper halves on a rack and small parts in a barrel.

The other issue is the nature of the parts that you will plate.

Fasteners of Grade 8.8 or stronger and high strength steel parts can suffer from Hydrogen Embrittlement and can crack during use following plating.

This problem can occur during either the acid cleaning of the parts or during the electroplating and the remedy is to 'bake' the parts within around 30 minutes for plating at around 250degC so if you plate High Tensile fasteners find a plater who offers a baking system.

Most platers can deal with modest rust but deep rust and certainly oil and grease need removing first.

[911hillclimber]

For several years I've used Castle Chrome in Dudley, West Midlands, close to Wolverhampton, for show quality chrome.
They can quote by you sending clear pictures of parts pictured with a clear tape measure to scale things.
They are not cheap and can have about now/winter a 6 week is lead time as restoration projects get started.
Quality is astounding. Typical classic motorcycle parts cost me £400 last year.

I too will need to find a zinc platters locally, but that is easy here in the industrial West Midlands.

I suffered from hydrogen embrittlement many years ago on my second hot rod project.
I plated cap head high tensile bolts and every head pinged off over night after full tightening about 12 hours before!
Buy such fasteners from a reputable source, ie Namrick.

[LMR]

Folks

I have had some plating done. I used the company below. Superb service with both quality and time. Highly recommended


Redditch Electro-Plating Co. Ltd.
www.redditch-ep.co.uk
t 01527 63858
f 01527 591504

[911hillclimber]

That is a help to me!
Red ditch is not far from me here and soon I'll need some zinc doing.

[LMR]

Graham

Have a look at my 914 blog and you will see the before and after photos

[C3s]

I use a family business in Hockley, Birmingham. The price, service & quality are all spot on. I don't have the details right now as l just drive there on autopilot. Can sort out details tomorrow at work if any interest.

[911hillclimber]

Yes please, supplier details are all welcome to me.
LMR: I'll search it out, thank you.