Epoxy Primer recommendations

[8bit-ash]

Hi,

Does anyone recommend a particular brand of epoxy primer? And is there any particular prep thats recommended post media blasting before priming?

Cheers

[911hillclimber]

Going to do exactly this tomorrow post soda blast on alum alloy crank cases.

My plan is to wash the parts in thinners or panel prep, dry, warm to 25C ish and paint in a simple epoxy etch primer.
Leave for 24 hours and paint over in hammerite smooth silver in 3 thin coats, again with pre-warm of paint and parts to 25 deg C ish..

Wait 24 again and test for petrol resistance.

If ok, do the rest of the (motorbike engine)

I assume you are using rattle cans?

[8bit-ash]

I want to make sure my shell is prepped properly post blasting, I'm having it done locally and want to make sure they say all the right things. They usually finish in etch primer. It will be applied by gun and I'm going to supply the paint so want to make sure it's a decent brand. I've asked if they can blast it with plastic media as it seems to contaminate the least. I've heard soda can create problems which I'm guessing will be easy enough to clean away on small stuff but more problematic on a shell.

[fetuhoe]

Lechler LS107 - it will need tinting to the basic colour you want such as white, black, grey or beige.

[Strictly]

I use an epoxy primer on top af phosphoric acid (rust buster phoskleen B is really good as it has no additives). This acid etchs the steel which gives the epoxy more grip. Bizareely and I canf find where I read it, but im sure I ready something about not to use epoxy primer over acid etch primer - that could be a read herring, as surely the acid in etch primer is phosphoric - perhaps also another red herring

for brand I use Yotun 87, you should check out rustbusters process. At some stage I might switch over too, PPG/lechler or Du Pont (get ron rolands restored by hand book, sure its aimed at 356's but he talks far beyond just the car he works on, like techniques, epoxy, etc - best resto book ive ever read)

[8bit-ash]

From what i've read so far people seem to suggest that the acid in etch primer can effect the curing of Epoxy, think the same can happen with Phosphoric acid.
Will definitely check that book, looks useful.

[Strictly]

8bit, i'll post some excerpts from the book when i get time. Ive just noticed ive completely ignored, that after the phosphoric, that i should use another product called conversion coating, ive always just dried it and gone straight to epoxy, been okay so far.

Check this link out for some reading

http://www.rust.co.uk/3-treating-rust-t ... r-way/t20/


the phoskleen B is really good (dosent flash rust, i assume its just pure 40% phosphoric (its clear, most others are red)), the epoxy primer too, but other EP's can be bought. I havent really used the other products (chlor-X), but i need some more phoskleen B and will actually by some of the others to try.

I'll be intrested to hear from anyone about other tried and tested procedures/solutions, i really wanted to use ron rolands method, but as i said we cant get the exact products he uses in the UK (due to EU VOC's) only the dupont 840R epoxy primer.

[Nine One One]

Going to do exactly this tomorrow post soda blast on alum alloy crank cases.

My plan is to wash the parts in thinners or panel prep, dry, warm to 25C ish and paint in a simple epoxy etch primer.
Leave for 24 hours and paint over in hammerite smooth silver in 3 thin coats, again with pre-warm of paint and parts to 25 deg C ish..

Wait 24 again and test for petrol resistance.

If ok, do the rest of the (motorbike engine)

I assume you are using rattle cans?

Hammerite washes off in petrol! Its is not as good as it used to be, solvents etc removed in this day and age of good old H & S. Painted a lawn Mower with it, first time I filled the tank up, some spilled onto the frame and petrol tank, and the Hammerite just dissolved
Now use petrol to clean my brushes when I have used Hammerite and cleans them a treat!

[smallspeed]

depending on where you're using it, epoxy mastic straight onto bare steel is good, plus it covers small imperfections and helps seal seams too. best / least hassle finish I found was brushing it on - lots of people recommend rollering it but on my first attempt it ate a foam roller and then a furry one, and turned the paint into artex! Fortunately that little escapade was in the underside of the trans tunnel so not a big deal..

Appreciate this isn't "period correct" or anything like that, but if you're doing the underneath of floors or tunnels and things then its a really good way to seal-up and protect large areas. I used it throughout the underside, wheel-arches and engine bay of my track car as it helps seal up the seams again after spending hours removing seam sealer and stitch welding everything

helps a lot with tidying up areas around seams and welds as is high build, but needs quite a bit of sanding down afterwards if you don't get it put on dead smooth (which I'd wager you will not unless you thin it a lot and spray it). on the plus side if you leave it to dry for a while (like 3 days or more) it can be sanded fairly easily using a random orbit or rotary or whatever, and forms a nice solid base to paint over with your top coat!

Few pictures of my experiences - I appreciate this isn't the quality most of you guys strive for (paint AND photos! ) but this isn't a show car and I'm doing everything myself on a budget