Brake lines

[shandyhaggis]

The Americans love speedbleeders. Basically a replacement bleed nip with a one way valve inside. Easipeasy. Not sure if available in the UK though but I'll be looking next time I have that job to do.

I was drawn to the ones that work off vacuum pressure (spare wheel or some sort of pump). I might give one a go, Just trying to reduce the risk of having a pot half full with brake fluid all over my garage floor caused by trying to coordinate my son to press and not press on command and also myself with a spanner and aforementioned pot... anything to make life easier

Thanks

Andrew

[Gary71]

I spent years mucking about with the 'easy' brake bleed kits. Now abandoned as they never really made it easier, occasionally sprayed brake fluid everywhere and seemed to preclude getting a decent pedal. Now I just do pure old school, up/down/up/down 1/4 turn of the spanner until my faithful assistant cries enough!

[jwhillracer]

+1! You can see exactly what's happening, and keep a check on things...

JW

[shandyhaggis]

Ill give the traditional method a go. Ill think of it as a son / father bonding session. Should be fun

A

[glovebox]

Anyone ever tried the speed bleeder system from PMB ?


Speed Bleeder (pair)

Don't forget the Speed Bleeders! The Speed Bleeder is a patented bleeder screw with a built-in check valve. It is truly a one-person bleeder screw. Once installed, it becomes a permanent part of the brake system. When it is time to bleed your brakes, you loosen the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and pump your brake pedal.

Orig. Price: $14.00
Sale Price: $12.00

[Mr Pharmacist]

They are the bleeders Bruce mentions on page 1 of the thread I think - sound like a great idea to me

[Mr Pharmacist]

I just found this in my local car parts shop. The tube you put on the bleeding valve has a one way valve on the end, therefore making bleeding easy. Apparently.

It was only £6 so I thought i'd give it a go. I will report back with my findings...

[shandyhaggis]

afternoon all

Im cracking on with the brake lines and done all the front and centre tunnel. In reflection I might do the centre tunnel again as I didnt realise the was a couple of 'holders' to pass the line through and Ive ended up using tie wraps and rubber hose sections to hold it in place. Should be ok but I might reroute it.

The bit I could do with a bit of help in is the rear lines from the pressure regulator and the route they take around the rear fire wall. I dont have anything for reference so if anyone has a couple of pictures Id appreciate it.

thanks

Andrew

[Mr Pharmacist]

Any use?

[Darren C]

Where the pipes run off each side of the photo Mr Phamacist posted they turn 90 degrees horizontally to face rearwards at the same height and to the outside of the large rubber engine bay gasket tight under the steel pressing. There is another clip each side (bent metal tab folds over a rubber sleeve on pipe) like the ones you can see in the picture that hold the pipe. (approximately below battery base) the two pipes then continue rearwards and bend down 90 degrees with a medium radius to meet the flexible hose brackets from above.

[shandyhaggis]

brill thank you both. I think the rear looks slightly different on mine as its a 76 but Ill work on the basis of the picture and notes. I think Im missing a clip hole on the left hand side which is confusing me a bit there is a one on the right a bit lower down.

I do have the old pipes but I straightened them out for storage and cant just shove them back in as a guide.

Thanks again thats great Ill have a fiddle.

Andrew

[Nige]

I have one of these


Proper one person operation and actually make bleeding brakes fun, the bleeding process now takes less time than it does to get the wheels off and the car up in the air. Works on modern ABS stuff as well.

[glovebox]

Wow !!!

[Bewildebeest]

Re brake bleeding - I use my jack handle and a piece of clear hose. No expensive kit, no assistant.

1. Put the ring spanner on the nipple and then the hose onto the nipple and the other end into a container. (First undo the nipple and make sure it turns freely - then nip it up gently)
2. Get a piece of wood about 18" long (or a jack handle) and position the drivers seat so that the distance from the brake pedal to the front of the seat is slightly less than the length of the piece of wood.
3. Now slide the seat forward another couple of clicks so that when you wedge the wood between the foam part of the seat and the pedal it applies pressure to the pedal.
4. Starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder, assuming you're doing all 4, crack off the nipple. It will spit some air out and maybe a bit of fluid. Nip the nipple back up.
5. The piece of wood will no longer be tightly wedged because you've released the pressure that was holding the pedal up. Remove the wood, allowing the pedal to come back up, and then wedge the wood back in the gap between seat and pedal and repeat. Each time more fluid and less air bubbles will appear in the clear hose. Once you have clear fluid and no bubbles give it 2 or 3 more cycles to be sure and then you're done. Tighten the nipple properly and the do the other 3 in order of decreasing distance from the master cylinder.
I've been doing it this way for over 30 years starting with a '67 Beetle and now on newish Peugeots with ABS. Works every time.

Andrew