Okrasa Special

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Macaulay
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Post by Macaulay »

sladey... I am... well shocked!
There is realy something there... I just can't put my finger on it! :laughing6:

You certainly made me see that this car has some 911 in it by adding
that spoiler on the back, geez.
Duke
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Post by Duke »

Hey Steve, keep the paint simple so folks get to appreciate the shape. Just my 2 cents worth. A couple of well placed decals on silver or white might do it. A bit like the Lancia really! Sorry - can I mention Italian cars here? I'm new.
steve wright
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Post by steve wright »

hey Gary, welcome! fancy putting up some ideas on paint?
'53 356 Pre-A (a box of bits!)
'54 Okrasa/Porsche/VW special
'58 356A Super (GS-spec)
'65 Razoredge Ghia
'66 Westfalia Camper
'70 911S (2.3 ST Le-Mans spec engine)

http://www.pushrod.org

http://www.classicporschemag.co.uk
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louis356
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Post by louis356 »

nothing to do with me. but saw these on ebay and thought of you!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche- ... ccessories[/url]
-Macs speed shop-
V dubs and Porsche tubs
87 924S (Now dead or is it?)
62 356 (Working on it!)
66 912 (Sadly gone - but have you seen the price of it!!)
Apal speedster (Sadly gone)
BSA Bantam in bits
A35 Race car in the making (peanutracing)
Gary71
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Post by Gary71 »

They will be the finishing touch and worth every penny! :)
sladey
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Post by sladey »

Deffo - gorgeous
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
steve wright
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Post by steve wright »

cor that's not cheap for a set of handles.... does anyone know if they are specific to Abarth/Porsche or were they used on any production cars (the former I presume given the price tag)?
'53 356 Pre-A (a box of bits!)
'54 Okrasa/Porsche/VW special
'58 356A Super (GS-spec)
'65 Razoredge Ghia
'66 Westfalia Camper
'70 911S (2.3 ST Le-Mans spec engine)

http://www.pushrod.org

http://www.classicporschemag.co.uk
Barry
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Post by Barry »

Very pretty though 8) .

I'd think that at that price it'd be worth getting some made?

How do they work: i.e. how does the handle motion find it's way onto the latch mech?
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sladey
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Post by sladey »

Blimey - they were $50 when I first looked - now at $899

:shock:
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
decapman
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Post by decapman »

Try here
These are most likely repro but supplied by an Abarth specialist

http://www.bernimotori.com/abarth_bodywork_en.html#750


I have them on my Abarth Zagato (originals) and they are bautiful pieces.
Marcus
1952 Pre a
1956 356a "die Ratte"
1972 Mercedes 280S
1974 914 2.0
1955 Continental Cabriolet
1968 Citroen DS21 Cabriolet
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louis356
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Post by louis356 »

Or some Fiat Barchetta ones secondhand. most of them should have rusted away by now!
-Macs speed shop-
V dubs and Porsche tubs
87 924S (Now dead or is it?)
62 356 (Working on it!)
66 912 (Sadly gone - but have you seen the price of it!!)
Apal speedster (Sadly gone)
BSA Bantam in bits
A35 Race car in the making (peanutracing)
sladey
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Post by sladey »

No prices on that site - how much are they?
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
decapman
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Post by decapman »

No idea
You have to ring up, Toni Berni is an expat Welshman who started his Abarth business in Italy many years ago, they re not too hot on responding to faxes and dont have e mail

About par for the course in the world of Abarths
Marcus
1952 Pre a
1956 356a "die Ratte"
1972 Mercedes 280S
1974 914 2.0
1955 Continental Cabriolet
1968 Citroen DS21 Cabriolet
Barry
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Post by Barry »

Hi Folks, it's been a bit quiet on the Okrasa front for a few weeks. I've had a number of weekends away, so only just beginning to catch up.

One thing that we did have to do is have a look at the suspension all round. Ian (V.W. supremo, P.M. Steve Wright for contact details) is in charge of all things trick-suspension, but I did attend to lend some cutting and welding assistance.

Objective was to modify the front torsion bar holder area of the torsion tube area. The bars are held in place by a fixed, square holed holder, pinched into the centre of each of the two torsion tubes. This holder has an external bolt that clamps the torsion bar to the holder.

Objective was to cut out this area, grind out the 'dimples' that retain the bar holder, and punch them out. Then the tubes had to be cleaned up, and each clamp-bolt hole machined into a slot. After that, the whole lot could be welded back in again, together with some external clamps that allow the bar holder to be held through a range of positions, giving a large range of height adjustment.

I regret that I failed to get pics of the machining (done on my 1954 Tom Senior mill 8) ), or indeed the later stages, but here're the two sections in question:

Image

I'll grab some of the new arrangement in place when I'm next up there.

The rear shocks with over-springs have been removed for rebuilding: Steve can fill in the details on these, as I can't remember what they are :oops: .

Anyway, once completed, we'll have a height-adjustable front end, and shock-adjustment to the rear as well. I guess there's no reason why the front shocks shouldn't be changed for something adjustable should the need arise later.

BTW, one interesting discovery was the the torsion bars had been cut down to one leaf each, but only half-way along. A bit of a puzzle as to the logic, but for now we're bowing to David's knowledge at the time (as he had an excellent reputation as designer and engineer). No doubt Steve will assemble a variety of alternatives to try in the future as well :) .

Image

Anyway, main reason of post was some gratuitous shots of car in a 'being worked on' position. It's amazing how real it looked, and we were very pleased with the proportions.

Image

Image

Image

From my point of view, I'm slightly in limbo for a little while. I've got another training session coming up which is all about jigs / bucks. The issue we've got at the moment is that we've got a 'master' side that we're happy with. This now needs to be duplicated as accurately as possible on the other side. BTW, the second side at the moment is only the very roughest outline to establish an overall feel for the shape, and is no-way accurate enough to work from in the metal.

Anyway, with this upcoming course in mind, I'm a bit inclined to wait until I've sucked up as much info as possible before making a start on the second side.

TBH, there're a number of ways I could go, and I don't want to make a start, only to find almost straight away that there was a better solution available. This is the one disadvantage of free-handing with the wire: you never have a set of flat plans to work from.

My guess at the moment is that I'll set up some fore and aft datumn lines, and used these to base some outer profiles (probably 6mm ply or MDF). once these are layed out, they could be tidied up, and transfered over onto 12mm (or so) board, or onto the thicker (5/16th) wire, before being built into a proper buck.

We'll see: one thing seems to make sense, at the moment at least, which is use the 'master' side as it is. One thing's for sure, I can't wait to get the buck all finished and really solid.

There're a few other smaller jobs I can do in the meantime (like laminate up some hammerforms for the front and rear) to keep things moving along.

All for now :) .
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Bruce M
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Post by Bruce M »

Looks like David reduced the front spring rate down to circa 55-60% of the original. Interestingly each side effectively uses one of the leaf sets each.

A bonus byproduct is that now each beam now has a "swayaway" style ride height adjuster it will be possible to corner weight the suspension set up as each adjuster will mostly affect one side.
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