356 restoration question
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decapman
- DDK slapper chatter
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356 restoration question
I have read several times now that 356 body restoration isnt straight forward or simple.
Anyone care to enlighten me whats so different?
Anyone care to enlighten me whats so different?
Marcus
1952 Pre a
1956 356a "die Ratte"
1972 Mercedes 280S
1974 914 2.0
1955 Continental Cabriolet
1968 Citroen DS21 Cabriolet
1952 Pre a
1956 356a "die Ratte"
1972 Mercedes 280S
1974 914 2.0
1955 Continental Cabriolet
1968 Citroen DS21 Cabriolet
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Lightweight_911
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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- Hendrik Moulds
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Thing is if you don't get the door and bonnet shuts perfect with even gaps etc then the car will look terrible.
Unfortunately this is very difficult and time consuming to achieve.
Also because the body is "on piece" in other words no seperate wings and lots of curves it's easy to get wrong. It's not that it's different particularily just hard (and expensive) to get right.
Unfortunately this is very difficult and time consuming to achieve.
Also because the body is "on piece" in other words no seperate wings and lots of curves it's easy to get wrong. It's not that it's different particularily just hard (and expensive) to get right.
(Formally 356ist)
Membership #: 356!
1953 Cabriolet
1959 Coupe (Sold)
1961 Notchback
1961 Sunroof Coupe (Sold)
1962 Coupe (Gone, but not forgotten!)
ALL RHD OF COURSE!
Membership #: 356!
1953 Cabriolet
1959 Coupe (Sold)
1961 Notchback
1961 Sunroof Coupe (Sold)
1962 Coupe (Gone, but not forgotten!)
ALL RHD OF COURSE!
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Rustbucket
- DDK forever
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I did all my own work and its all do-able.
I agree that there is a load of lead work on the original car but that basically means that the pics you see of these amazingly worked all metal repairs at mega bucks are actually better workmanship than what was on the car in the first place!
I've yet to really put my car together properly to check the gaps etc but for me its fine.
I think the main problem is there literally isnt a straight line on the body to work from other than the lower door sill. Most of it is by eye.
As for panels- The sill closing panel I got in was a good 4 inches too long..........scary!
D
I agree that there is a load of lead work on the original car but that basically means that the pics you see of these amazingly worked all metal repairs at mega bucks are actually better workmanship than what was on the car in the first place!
I've yet to really put my car together properly to check the gaps etc but for me its fine.
I think the main problem is there literally isnt a straight line on the body to work from other than the lower door sill. Most of it is by eye.
As for panels- The sill closing panel I got in was a good 4 inches too long..........scary!
D
Contact me if you have any 356b coupe parts !!!!
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roy mawbey
- Put a fork in me, I'm done!
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Marcus,
Very sensible points by these guys. It does come down to the fact the car is all curves and the body panels are not bolt on. The rigidity is because the body and chassis platform box sections are as one. The underneath and the amount of rust as no doubt you are aware with your early RHD 911S is also important from a working point of view. The body you can work around if you are doing the work yourself because you can get at it, Different case with the underneath! Now days these rotisseries are the thing to have makes life easier. I did mine using a full length pit and all sorts of lifting gear to get at the items to weld. ( and note that even though my car was actually in reasonable condition and still has original battery box, 70% of the original sills with their jacking points it was still a really long job and tiring!)
I now think the best way would be on the spit. So you can see really why people end up paying and just how many hours it can take.
I think most things can be achieved but you really have to want to do it if you are doing the work!
Below a picture of my car from above. It really shows the difficult curves.
[img][img]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq15 ... CF0029.jpg[/img][/img]
As a test for me! I am now entering another photo of my dashboard to see if a second photo is up loaded okay.
[img][img]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq15 ... CF0020.jpg[/img][/img]
Roy
Very sensible points by these guys. It does come down to the fact the car is all curves and the body panels are not bolt on. The rigidity is because the body and chassis platform box sections are as one. The underneath and the amount of rust as no doubt you are aware with your early RHD 911S is also important from a working point of view. The body you can work around if you are doing the work yourself because you can get at it, Different case with the underneath! Now days these rotisseries are the thing to have makes life easier. I did mine using a full length pit and all sorts of lifting gear to get at the items to weld. ( and note that even though my car was actually in reasonable condition and still has original battery box, 70% of the original sills with their jacking points it was still a really long job and tiring!)
I now think the best way would be on the spit. So you can see really why people end up paying and just how many hours it can take.
I think most things can be achieved but you really have to want to do it if you are doing the work!
Below a picture of my car from above. It really shows the difficult curves.
[img][img]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq15 ... CF0029.jpg[/img][/img]
As a test for me! I am now entering another photo of my dashboard to see if a second photo is up loaded okay.
[img][img]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq15 ... CF0020.jpg[/img][/img]
Roy
RHD 356A coupe super 75 106954
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912uk
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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I have to say with my Pre A I want to do it well and I want to do it once. Much like Roy's car..take the time invest in doing it well and it should reward you with years to come..
Not sure what FH thought I was doing with the car but I am really trying hard to get as sensible to orginal as I can..
at the moment the car is resting on it's side while I wait for warmer weather to get back into the floor resto.. not alot to do but taking my time .. the area I am worried about is this rear of the front wings on both sides a common place to rust.. for a car this old and to have SO very little rust I guess I can't complain really
but with out the spinny thing I made I couldn't do as good a job as scrabbling around under neath..
best thing I ever made I am sure some one will buy it off me afterwards..


funny thing is when it's on it's side it takes up less room in the work shop

Not sure what FH thought I was doing with the car but I am really trying hard to get as sensible to orginal as I can..
at the moment the car is resting on it's side while I wait for warmer weather to get back into the floor resto.. not alot to do but taking my time .. the area I am worried about is this rear of the front wings on both sides a common place to rust.. for a car this old and to have SO very little rust I guess I can't complain really
but with out the spinny thing I made I couldn't do as good a job as scrabbling around under neath..
best thing I ever made I am sure some one will buy it off me afterwards..


funny thing is when it's on it's side it takes up less room in the work shop
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roy mawbey
- Put a fork in me, I'm done!
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Now that is the way to do it!!! I only wish I had that "spinny thing" in the 70's.! It makes everything so much easier. I am sure you will find someone interested in buying that when you are finished.
So right, spend all the time possible to get it to your satisfaction then when you look at it 5 years on its won't niggle you.
Bet that car will look nice when its finished.
Roy
So right, spend all the time possible to get it to your satisfaction then when you look at it 5 years on its won't niggle you.
Bet that car will look nice when its finished.
Roy
RHD 356A coupe super 75 106954

