Stater Motor Advice

domo1977 · Post by **domo1977** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 8:33 am

Hi
I need to decide if my 911's starter motor is shot, when attempting to start the car with a fully charged battery (and booster) it just manages to turn the engine over, reckon it manages no more than 100-150rpm at the crank. Sometimes the solenoid just clicks and it doesnt even manage to turn it over!! back off try again and it goes! I've checked the voltage at the starter motor end and I'm getting about 12,8volts (same as at battery end) so I know the connections are good.

Any help would be gratefully recieved, as It's a real bugger to start, and I need it more reliable before I put it on the road!

'Tis a 2.2T by the way.

cheers

Dom

Luke · Post by **Luke** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:01 am

sounds like the motor's knackered, if the voltage is correct going into the motor there's not a lot else that can be the problem.

If you need a replacement motor I've got one from a 1972 2.4 that runs perfectly (will be taken off my car at the weekend so I can fit a lightweight motor)

domo1977 · Post by **domo1977** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:10 am

I guess this will fit my engine?

You have mail!!

cheers

Luke · Post by **Luke** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:33 am

I'm not certain it will fit. Anyone here know for sure?

I'll do some digging and get back to you

domo1977 · Post by **domo1977** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:52 am

I think it will fit, just had a look at the pelican catalogue and they say that a later '73 starter can be used on '65-'71 as an upgrade. Apparently the '73 motors are higher power to cope with the larger engine. Anybody confirm this please?

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 6:33 pm

Just a quick suggestion (don't want to interupt Luke's starter motor sale!) I take it you've double checked the engine earth (you will still get full battery volts because of clutch, accelerator and idle cables): if you havn't 2 easy ways: 1) check voltage (not ohms) between engine and body when cranking: should be just about nil. 2) (better if you're on your own) put single jump lead between engine and good body earth, if starter runs quicker its the earth. Hope I'm not demo'ing egg sucking to Granny...

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 8:55 pm

Also ....

Main earths (battery end), either 1) Voltage (not ohms) between battery negative and good body earth whilst cranking: definately two man or very, very long arms or 2) Put headlights on whilst cranking, if they nearly go out when engine comes up to compression then earths or battery.

I'll shut up now.

P.S. That fact I've come back and put this post up says what a roller coaster my evening's been: I've just painted 72 wheel spokes for my little Ducati.

domo1977 · Post by **domo1977** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:36 am

Cheers for the advice Barry, I had tried some of those things like checking earths, but had not thought about the simple things like trying to start it with the head lights on!! Will give it a go later!!

ta

Dom

PS pics of the Duke would be appreciated by all here I'm sure!!

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:11 pm

I thought you would of done most of the above, but worth asking.

The bike's nothing very exciting (it wouldn't be would it: its mine!) it was a 1965 200 GT (commuter thing) but has got a OHC engine. Its mid-way through being cafe' racered: geared up, cut down gaurds, Akront rims, rear-sets (if I can find some alloy to machine) clip-ons etc etc. Might even do a little bum-stop seat for it. I'll post before and after's when its done (end of the month?).