DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

In the late 80’s I flew to Detroit 26 times a 14 month period, and in between flights to St Die in the Alsace, France.
We won a huge contract with Chrysler and GM.
Doctor told me change my job asap.
Even back then business travel was evil.

Hong Kong was an experience!

Could you walk the streets safely in Detroit in the 80s?

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No.
After 6 in the afternoon taxi only to the centre.
We stayed 14 miles out which was very safe.
People were shot dead on the freeways, I saw guns out of side windows at each other driving to the airport in hire cars.
Horrible place, but the project was quite the experience.
We did central locking actuators, made in England, shipped to the USA.

Back home and I started taking off the tinware. I'm trying to clean everything before I store it. More storage boxes needed

The jack arrived and I assembled.

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Good luck with the build Neil, it will be interesting to find out what went wrong with it.

Karl

Which jack have you bought Neil? I've been putting off taking my engine out for the Nth time, and I need some motivation to get the job done.

Kneeslider wrote:Which jack have you bought Neil? I've been putting off taking my engine out for the Nth time, and I need some motivation to get the job done.

It's like this one but I got from elsewhere

Halfords 680kg Motorcycle ATV Jack Stand | Halfords UK https://share.google/KEDvke8GX82tE2ZJh

I can't recommend yet. Untested



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Thanks for the tip Neil, looks like it should work.

Do yourself a favor when using that lift get a board across the top of it so you are jacking up the engine case and not the exhaust or push rod tubes etc. (when I say board I mean a offcut of railway sleeper or glulam beam)

All purchased now I know, but for decades I've used my Machine Mart engine hoist to pick the entire rear end of my 73T (with a 3.2 in it) and get the shell on the right height stands. Release all the bits off the engine and box with the hoist taking the weight of the drive train.
With a 3/4" ply board on the top of the hoist's legs lower the engine to the board (as expressed above). The drive train can be slid away from under the car. You are then free to remove the box off the engine.

Then you can lift the engine to it's stand and get the engine stripped.

All safe and no damage to anything, especially the mechanic!

SeanP wrote:Do yourself a favor when using that lift get a board across the top of it so you are jacking up the engine case and not the exhaust or push rod tubes etc. (when I say board I mean a offcut of railway sleeper or glulam beam)

That is a good point. I was hoping it would be on the sump but maybe be too wide

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neilbardsley wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2026 1:09 pm

SeanP wrote:Do yourself a favor when using that lift get a board across the top of it so you are jacking up the engine case and not the exhaust or push rod tubes etc. (when I say board I mean a offcut of railway sleeper or glulam beam)

That is a good point. I was hoping it would be on the sump but maybe be too wide

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I have the very same item for removing engines and know from experience its to wide!

I continued the disassembly today and I'm pretty close to dropping it

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A rather big fail or save today. I tried jacking the car up high enough to work underneath and drop the engine. Unfortunately, it moved down the hill. It fell of the jack. That was my signal to stop. A flat surface and car lift is needed.

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Might seem odd Neil bit to get the back high enough you need the front high too. On a Boxster the engine is so tall it needs to be about 4 foot in the air.

From an idea by Sladey I made these for the front wheels then you can go really high at the back. Axle stands in the front don’t work as the will tilt over and it’s a bit scary - these allow the car to pivot around the front and it can’t roll either. So off cuts and wood screws and you are away….




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