Door seals

[leedurrant73]

Hello,

Had a quick fit up of new door seals today. When I fit the seals both doors don’t shut properly and the door sits proud. Without the seals fitted the doors and catch are nicely aligned.

Where Am I best to start my adjustment?
I have the soft hollow type are Porsche original type.

Thanks


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[SeanP]

You are probably on the first latch of the door then!
They can be quite tight when first installed , Did you set the doors with the seals installed before paint etc?

Sean

[leedurrant73]

Hi Sean

Doors have been off and painted. So I set the doors to fit the striker plate without seals. So starting fresh. Would I have to reset or adjust the striker plate again? New sills etc.

I can’t hardly shut the doors at the moment with seals. They do just about catch but they put the door out of line.


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[leedurrant73]

Has anyone got any pics of the seal installed I want to be sure I’m doing it correctly?
They are Porsche supplied , solid with the overlap piece etc

Yes first latch mate.


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[911hillclimber]

I had this all those years ago just like the screen seals.
Seems ALL seals are tricky, wait until you get to the bonnet!

This is good weather to sort this out.
You can only fit the seal one way, the tube section with ribs push into the U channel of the body opening, the solid flap covers the length from the body waist line to the top of the B post just covering the leading edge of the rear side windows.
Fit to the channel in the door opening and leave in the sun for an hour. Good and hot, slam the door to compress the seal which is acting like a very stiff spring against closure.

You will probably have to move the striker out and then when shut leave to cool and 'set' the shape, then once left to cool re-position the striker more and heat/slam again. (and again)
You have no choice but to force the seal to a new shape, you could not have done this in the metal working stage, the panels have to align, the seals have to give.

When there leave the door closed to keep the seal compressed as long as you can.

When I worked in automotive in the late 80's I designed door locks and strikers for 4 years and had this situation so many times, but the solution was the customer had to get the seals right (fatter/ more slender etc) and it was not at all easy. Getting the seals right before production commenced was tough for everyone.
Now, you can't get a pint in a 1/2 pint glass but the seal must give way and will.

The longer you can get the hot seal to be compressed by the door the better. The simple test was for the door to be aligned but the pressure on the seal face to door face was enough to trap a piece of copier paper between the face and be dragged out by hand without ripping! This gave a closing force that was reasonable to the user, the latch going readily through first safety (first latching), and then to full lock in one reasonable action.

A lot of seals then were made by Schelgle (sp?), you might find info to the seal compression on Google?

[leedurrant73]

Hey thanks for all the tips. So it looks like this is all normal. I’ve done the from bonnet think god.

Do I adjust the window in any way ?


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[911hillclimber]

Yes you certainly do!
The frame cam be canted a lot and needs to be set to avoid wind noise (excessive, there is always some).
You use the same paper test for the compression of the seal around the relatively flexible frame.
If canted over too far pre seal fitting the door will close easy but the frame can hold it off with the seal in place which of course can give you hard closing!

It is all a bit of a chase around to even things out.

Slacken all the frame fastening off so it has full freedom to move.

Pinch the bots by the wing mirror area and the body line above the handle area so acting as a pivot for the frame. Seal in place and paper trapped close the door and see if the paper is tight loose etc.
Open the door gently and pinch the lower frame bolts to the frame inside the door. Remember to fit the thick steel window drop stop on the leg down from the 1/4 light.

Try the paper again (etc).

It is easier than I describe but can take a few goes.

I should add ref the door closing difficulty, it gets much easier when you have the weight of the glass and regulator in the door, the door has much more weight to it when 'slamming' it closed.

[911hillclimber]

! Lee
Just washed my 911.
I was mistaken about the hard flap of rubber on the leading edge of the 1/4 rear side window, the door seal is a continuous hollow tube, the flap I was on about is part of the 1/4 light seal and will have little effect on the door closing pressure. Sorry!

[leedurrant73]

Hello

I tried the hollow type because they were originally fitted before Resto. Driver’s door was a pig. Couldn’t shut with new type Porsche seal. The hollow type fitted like a glove and the door would shut.

Passenger side. Placed the seal in boiling water and fitted it. Got the door to shut and now leaving it.

Problem is I have odd seals fitted.
May opted to buy another hollow type as they seem to fit better. The used one I have is in poor condition.


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[911hillclimber]

Yes, tube type the ones to use.
Mine were opc supply in ‘89, still good.

[leedurrant73]

Hi,

Would you agree the part number for the hollow type is 91153109503 for Porsche and 91153109504 for copy part?


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[911hillclimber]

Afraid I would not know, but the last digit change can make a difference!