Bumper Removal / Jacking front of 1972 911

[kasbridge]

Hi Folks,
Need to jack up the front of my 1972 911 to remove the front bumper for some TLC.

Tried accessing the side supports via the turn cluster but the wiring harness is tight and I don't want to cause an electrical problems so abandoned this approach.

I only have diy type trolley jacks which are low profile but not long reach so will only reach the front A arm mounts of the front suspension and not the rear A arm mounts. Unsure as to how strong the front ones are?

The car has been lifted before using the front sill seams, probably by a tyre fitter but unsure that this is sensible?

Car is solid with no corrosion.

I have a jackpad that fits the OE square section jacking point which I could use to raise one wheel at a time but it will only go in about 75mm which doesn't seem enough, wouldn't want it slipping out etc.

I have been advised that the tow hook area can be used with some wood to spread the load but nervous of this as it appears to be un-reinforced sheet metal in this area?

Any ideas/recommendations please?

Many thanks,
Kevin

[911hillclimber]

Just my 2 pence on 38 years of having my 73T.

I place a wood support, about 1" x 3" x 6" under the central point of the front cross member where some cars have the towing loop, or at least I did, don't bother now.
Slacken all wheel nuts with car on the ground, do not remove them yet.
Simply gently jack the nose up to height (rear wheels choked, handbrake on etc) and place jack stands under the front mountings of the lower A arms, let the jack down until the weight is on the stands.

Remove wheels so to get access to the bumper mounting bolts.

I have jacked my car front this way for 38 years, the front cross member panel is quite dented, but all is well.

IIRC the factory jack arm/plate does go inside the square socket for about 75mm or until the round plate stops the square arm going further in.
Be sure the jack's plate will not slip off the jack arms round plate!! I found this can happen, so stopped using the side points.

Using the side points will raise the front and rear wheels off the ground, but the front will come off the ground first. You then repeat the other side.

Personally, I much prefer the jack under the front cross member way, never had a slippage yet. My big Machine Mart 2 tonne jack has a large 100mm round pad and I've added a rubber insert.

Others on here will disagree probably!

[Nine One One]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... b6YPl5yvHw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVKt2HW_X8g

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/porsche-91 ... ack-stands

[kasbridge]

Just my 2 pence on 38 years of having my 73T.

I place a wood support, about 1" x 3" x 6" under the central point of the front cross member where some cars have the towing loop, or at least I did, don't bother now.
Slacken all wheel nuts with car on the ground, do not remove them yet.
Simply gently jack the nose up to height (rear wheels choked, handbrake on etc) and place jack stands under the front mountings of the lower A arms, let the jack down until the weight is on the stands.

Remove wheels so to get access to the bumper mounting bolts.

I have jacked my car front this way for 38 years, the front cross member panel is quite dented, but all is well.

IIRC the factory jack arm/plate does go inside the square socket for about 75mm or until the round plate stops the square arm going further in.
Be sure the jack's plate will not slip off the jack arms round plate!! I found this can happen, so stopped using the side points.

Using the side points will raise the front and rear wheels off the ground, but the front will come off the ground first. You then repeat the other side.

Personally, I much prefer the jack under the front cross member way, never had a slippage yet. My big Machine Mart 2 tonne jack has a large 100mm round pad and I've added a rubber insert.

Others on here will disagree probably!

Hi, many thanks for the detailed response, looks like a very safe approach - I am nervous about denting the metalwork around the tow hook as the car is mint underneath so I'll proceed with extreme caution!

[kasbridge]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... b6YPl5yvHw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVKt2HW_X8g

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/porsche-91 ... ack-stands

Thanks for the info, I had seen the first couple whilst researching - my jackpad only goes in about half of the length of the steel bar ie about 75mm, the one on the video seems to go in quite a bit further hence my question.

[911hillclimber]

Rust down the inside of the tube will stop the bar fully engaging.

It is VERY easy to dent the centre of the front tank support cross member.

Just me because I lost a hillclimb friend who jacked is MG up on a trolley jack and went under the car to work, but the jack failed....

I don't like jacking the car up and going under to place jack stands under chassis parts, I prefer to simply minimally reach in to place the stands, so the two front suspension points by the front valance and the rear torsion bar covers.
On my race car rear the chassis points are right under the car so use a broom to position the stands and to remove them.

As I say, just me.

[kasbridge]

Rust down the inside of the tube will stop the bar fully engaging.

It is VERY easy to dent the centre of the front tank support cross member.

Just me because I lost a hillclimb friend who jacked is MG up on a trolley jack and went under the car to work, but the jack failed....

I don't like jacking the car up and going under to place jack stands under chassis parts, I prefer to simply minimally reach in to place the stands, so the two front suspension points by the front valance and the rear torsion bar covers.
On my race car rear the chassis points are right under the car so use a broom to position the stands and to remove them.

As I say, just me.

Rust down the inside of the tube will stop the bar fully engaging.

It is VERY easy to dent the centre of the front tank support cross member.

Just me because I lost a hillclimb friend who jacked is MG up on a trolley jack and went under the car to work, but the jack failed....

I don't like jacking the car up and going under to place jack stands under chassis parts, I prefer to simply minimally reach in to place the stands, so the two front suspension points by the front valance and the rear torsion bar covers.
On my race car rear the chassis points are right under the car so use a broom to position the stands and to remove them.

As I say, just me.

All noted and many thx!

[kasbridge]

Many thx for the inputs, the bumper is now off!

Pretty straightforward once I got started, only 8 bolts in total including Horn removal.

Only point of note was that both bumper sides “sprung” out of position outwards (sideways) by a few mm once free of the retaining bolts - not sure if this is usual or not or whether the bumper should offer up perfectly to the wings without any encouragement - I suspect not

Many thx for any inputs - much appreciated!

[coomo]

youll find many 911 panels and fittings are "under tension" once you release them!

[kasbridge]

youll find many 911 panels and fittings are "under tension" once you release them!

[911hillclimber]

Very true!