1971 Burgundy 911T
Moderator: Bootsy
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911hillclimber
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 20566
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:26 pm
- Location: West Midlands
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
Andy, have you tried the new brakes yet, or is your foot still out of commission?
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
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Lightweight_911
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 17918
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:48 pm
- Location: Worcs/W Mids border
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
.
- as mentioned in the first of my last 2 posts above Graham.
I've not done any emergency stops yet but in 'normal' motoring the brakes seem fine with no squealing ...
.
- as mentioned in the first of my last 2 posts above Graham.
I've not done any emergency stops yet but in 'normal' motoring the brakes seem fine with no squealing ...
.
Andy
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
-
911hillclimber
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 20566
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:26 pm
- Location: West Midlands
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
Ah, missed that.
Thanks.
Thanks.
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
-
Lightweight_911
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 17918
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:48 pm
- Location: Worcs/W Mids border
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
..
Just realised that I didn't post any pictures of the pump & new hoses after re-fitting the pump.
These were the old/hard hoses removed from their connections at the rear of the tunnel - possibly the originals !


Since the Pierburg pump just has an inlet & outlet - hence no facility for a return line - I used a short section of the 7.3mm Cohline hose blocked off at one end attached to the rigid pipe at the rear of the tunnel.
Access for fitting the other (9mm) new hose (feeding the pump) was very restricted so I had to resort to using some long reach hose pliers to be able to get the hose onto the rigid pipe at the rear of the tunnel.

-& this is the refitted pump with the new hoses - looks much neater utilising the original pump wiring harness & rubber boot :

- needless to say, whilst carrying out this job, I noticed a few other things under there that needed attention ...
.
Just realised that I didn't post any pictures of the pump & new hoses after re-fitting the pump.
These were the old/hard hoses removed from their connections at the rear of the tunnel - possibly the originals !


Since the Pierburg pump just has an inlet & outlet - hence no facility for a return line - I used a short section of the 7.3mm Cohline hose blocked off at one end attached to the rigid pipe at the rear of the tunnel.
Access for fitting the other (9mm) new hose (feeding the pump) was very restricted so I had to resort to using some long reach hose pliers to be able to get the hose onto the rigid pipe at the rear of the tunnel.

-& this is the refitted pump with the new hoses - looks much neater utilising the original pump wiring harness & rubber boot :

- needless to say, whilst carrying out this job, I noticed a few other things under there that needed attention ...
.
Andy
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
-
Lightweight_911
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 17918
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:48 pm
- Location: Worcs/W Mids border
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
.
So, as mentioned, whilst I was under the car replacing the fuel hoses at the rear, I noticed a few other things that needed rectifying.
The first of these was the throttle linkage:
- the bell crank was removed from the side of the gearbox along with the throttle rod up to the engine compartment then cleaned & regreased :




The parts were then refitted together with a new rubber bellows at the tunnel exit (previously missing) :

The long throttle rod seemed a bit 'sloppy' where it exited the tunnel & on further investigation it was discovered that the 3 plastic bushes which are meant to support it were missing, so replacements were duly ordered

- I couldn't believe how expensive these are ... almost £10 ea for little bits of plastic !!
Next task was to replace/repair the old inner & outer rubber boots protecting the gearshift coupler.
The existing position of the coupler in relation to the shift rod was marked using some red paint, then the coupler removed/checked/cleaned & the inner boot which was split & in 2 pieces was super-glued back together :

Whilst these were out of the way, the old/disintegrating outer boot was removed & a new replacement fed through from inside the tunnel

The coupler was then refitted in its original position - you can just see the new (rearmost) plastic bush (supporting the throttle rod) fitted at the top right

So, as mentioned, whilst I was under the car replacing the fuel hoses at the rear, I noticed a few other things that needed rectifying.
The first of these was the throttle linkage:
- the bell crank was removed from the side of the gearbox along with the throttle rod up to the engine compartment then cleaned & regreased :




The parts were then refitted together with a new rubber bellows at the tunnel exit (previously missing) :

The long throttle rod seemed a bit 'sloppy' where it exited the tunnel & on further investigation it was discovered that the 3 plastic bushes which are meant to support it were missing, so replacements were duly ordered

- I couldn't believe how expensive these are ... almost £10 ea for little bits of plastic !!
Next task was to replace/repair the old inner & outer rubber boots protecting the gearshift coupler.
The existing position of the coupler in relation to the shift rod was marked using some red paint, then the coupler removed/checked/cleaned & the inner boot which was split & in 2 pieces was super-glued back together :

Whilst these were out of the way, the old/disintegrating outer boot was removed & a new replacement fed through from inside the tunnel

The coupler was then refitted in its original position - you can just see the new (rearmost) plastic bush (supporting the throttle rod) fitted at the top right

Andy
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
- hashman
- DDK forever
- Posts: 701
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2003 12:46 am
- Location: Midlands
-
Lightweight_911
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 17918
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:48 pm
- Location: Worcs/W Mids border
Re: 1971 Burgundy 911T
.
Fitting the other 2 plastic bushes in the tunnel supporting the throttle rod necessitated removal of the hand brake lever & gear change 'tower'.
Needless to say, this led to the inevitable "whilst I'm in there" scenario ...
So, with the handbrake lever assembly freed from the tunnel, the hand throttle's malfunctioning was investigated ... it transpired that there was nothing connected to the bottom of the hand throttle lever nor any signs of the plastic part on the floor of the tunnel !
Cheapest price for the plastic 'valve lever' was from the USA via Amazon (still cheaper than from any of the usual UK sources) so the part was ordered.


Fitting the part was fairly straightforward - just a bit 'fiddly' to get the tiny C-clip back on the end of the shaft (I hadn't disconnected the handbrake cables).
Along the same lines, whilst the gear lever was out in order to fit the throttle rod plastic bush, the opportunity was taken to replace the one at the base of the lever into which the 'ball' fits - as is often the case, the old one was cracked & worn:


The area in the tunnel beneath the gear lever was cleaned:


- then the new ball socket bush fitted to the gearlever & the associated parts refitted

So that completed the additional string of minor jobs, each of which had unexpectedly cropped up as an aside to my original task of tidying up the fuel pump installation !
.
Fitting the other 2 plastic bushes in the tunnel supporting the throttle rod necessitated removal of the hand brake lever & gear change 'tower'.
Needless to say, this led to the inevitable "whilst I'm in there" scenario ...
So, with the handbrake lever assembly freed from the tunnel, the hand throttle's malfunctioning was investigated ... it transpired that there was nothing connected to the bottom of the hand throttle lever nor any signs of the plastic part on the floor of the tunnel !
Cheapest price for the plastic 'valve lever' was from the USA via Amazon (still cheaper than from any of the usual UK sources) so the part was ordered.


Fitting the part was fairly straightforward - just a bit 'fiddly' to get the tiny C-clip back on the end of the shaft (I hadn't disconnected the handbrake cables).
Along the same lines, whilst the gear lever was out in order to fit the throttle rod plastic bush, the opportunity was taken to replace the one at the base of the lever into which the 'ball' fits - as is often the case, the old one was cracked & worn:


The area in the tunnel beneath the gear lever was cleaned:


- then the new ball socket bush fitted to the gearlever & the associated parts refitted

So that completed the additional string of minor jobs, each of which had unexpectedly cropped up as an aside to my original task of tidying up the fuel pump installation !
.
Andy
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”

