New Car Woes - 1...Update

[IanM]

Not what u want to hear ,mine rhd,it turned out cheaper to buy originals from Freisinger than bugger abt, but at that time car was in bits ………

Hey Slope, you have a PM.

[911SE]

Just read through the entire tread, proper bodge job that and not what one would expect from a reputable shop. Easy to say afterwards but as some has already pointed out, the pipe(s) really have to be replaced. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

[IanM]

Some pics of mine here, which might be useful:
https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... -oil-pipes

Incredible pictures.

Are these oil pipes listed in the PET catalogue? If so, can someone please show me where as I can't seem to find it?

Thanks.

[PhilipB]

If you need the 2.2S hard oil lines Neil Bainbridge has newly made up ones in stock.


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[Lightweight_911]

Are these oil pipes listed in the PET catalogue? If so, can someone please show me where as I can't seem to find it?

Thanks.

[IanM]

Thanks Andy but I think that's for 1972. We're talking about 2.2S (70 & 71).

[IanM]

If you need the 2.2S hard oil lines Neil Bainbridge has newly made up ones in stock.

Thanks Philip

[Ollie]

The most elegant and cost effect solution appears to be Jonny's suggestion of adding a remote oil cooler to the rear of the car. It will be out of sight and minimal fuss in terms of plumbing.

[964RS]

To give this thread a little more clarity. Any repair to the pipe in situ is inherently a trial and see repair. Selected due to cost and in some cases time. This was discussed last time and agreed to trial a brazed repair. The only correct way is to replace the line. Previous mentioned ideas on this thread are again simply attempts to repair and hope it seals. There is very little space, movement and it is not possible to slice the line and replace a section. Our attempt was to braze the line in situ, which is inherently difficult as the lines are filled with oil which makes the job very difficult as it contaminates the area being brazed and also you are doing all this upside down. The attempt was agreed and repaired. This repair worked In that it sealed the line as the car left here dry in 2019, it went to a few shows plus was recently sold (not by ourselves) and the images used seem to show no oil leaks. See here (sorry not sure how to paste a direct link) 2021

https://flic.kr/p/2mDuANn

The rubber pipe is not the repair it was simply used to separate the lines from knocking together. If you need to increase visibility simply remove it. Clearly it looks like the repair has now failed, or there is another potential fatigue fracture, hence the only way to have true confidence is to remove the line and replace or attempt to repair whilst off the car. The line needs fully cleaning out first and also they need to be pressure tested before being installed. The body and paint was done in 2013 and I don’t have pics to see how they were installed.

Any repair in situ runs the risk of only be a temporary repair just like the previous attempt. Hindsight is wonderful and no repair on any restoration is intended to fail. Thus, rather than make the same mistake I suggest doing it by removing the sill and lower section of the rear wing. The kidney bowl will also have to be removed. Remove the front wing and i suspect the front wing closure panel will need to be slotted to remove the line and/or fit another. I estimate this to be 3 days and then paint. Plus parts and materials. I have mentioned the offer of help before and I’m willing to do so. Whilst I feel this can’t be a warranty repair, due to the agreement on the repair being undertaken in 2019, I can still offer a reduced rate and reduction on materials using our paint scheme, as I completely understand your frustration.

Thanks
Alan

Finally took the sickening decision to cut into my fully restored car today to try and locate the leaking oil pipe and expecting to find a previously brazed pipe repair with a piece of rubber separating the two oil pipes.

We took the decision to cut where all the oil seemed to be leaking out of and where the previous repair had taken place as that seemed logical.

The cut exposed 3 more jubilee clips tight around a rubber piece of hose…




But we didn’t know if that was the end and had to cut further…




On inspection it didn’t feel like the rubber hose had solid pipe through the middle of it? It certainly didn’t look like it was there to just keep the two brass pipes apart?

So we removed the clips and punctured the rubber hose in the middle. Oil poured out….




We then cut through the rubber hose and was able to remove it from one end of the brass pipe.




But the hose wouldn’t come off fully?

Then we noticed a jagged piece of inner sill metal that had been rewelded around and pressed up against the rubber hose on the other end?




Behind this we found another jubilee clip so had to cut this back to get access to it…




The rubber hose still wouldn’t come off so we cut it back further and found the 6th jubilee clip….




After another hour we finally got the rubber hose removed….not to find a braze repair but a 3” gap between the two brass oil pipes that had been patched with an 8” rubber hose and 6 jubilee clips…





It was always just a matter of time until it started pi$$ing oil out of it I guess and just lucky it was not a catastrophic failure that blew the engine.

I certainly don’t feel very lucky tonight though.

[Bootsy]

[PorscheBarry]

That is the worst bodge job I have seen it’s been calculated and intentional by either the owner to move the car on or the repairer having committed to a fixed quotation.


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[sladey]

Oof!

[hot66]

That’s shocking for a ‘restored car’ . I assume Alan will be able to explain

[PorscheBarry]

What is unknown is the condition of the pipes as they go through the kidney bowl, the only resolution is to do it properly and replace both pipes.


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[Bigfoot]

Assume Alan is going to cough up and repair it properly FOC with photos before during and after?


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