Terrot MT1 Motorcycle restoration project

[911hillclimber]

It will be sold as soon as it runs, so I hope they will be anyone who firstly knows what it is and will want something different to normal British Bantams etc.
Despite trying to keep costs down It will prob sell at a material loss.
No idea how anyone in the classic bike trade makes enough to by lunch once a week let alone keep a family.

Saw yet another bike accident recently, big BMW bike, toppled over by someone going round a roundabout.
I'm too old to break, so it will go like the Lambrettas and my lovely Honda..

[Gary71]

Really coming together now, probably way better built than when new. Good work!


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[911hillclimber]

Thank you Gary, it has been a simple but interesting bike where you can't just order parts and screw them on.
The Terrot company was huge in France, BSA Triumph etc all rolled into one then it died in the 60s.
So many have never heard of them inc some of the specialists
I've used for services.

Got to get it running first before I can try the hand gear change of the 3 speed box....

[911hillclimber]

Sure is hot even in the shaded garage today, but another 2 hours to do a few small things.

The Terrot has a 3 speed box with a gear lever mounted on the tank coupled with a steel rod. As with the rear brake I re-made the rod in stainless steel and spent ages getting the adjustment right.
I think I'm there now and the 3 speeds correspond to the steps in the gate.
Bad news is the clutch does not clear...so some adjustments needed in that sandwich soon.

Wired the rear light up using connectors from my Honda build and added the petrol tap and hose.
Might remove the hose clips as they are very ugly as this is a gravity feed, I think all will be well. The hose is a very tight fit.

Found the correct front tank bolt in the box. This has longer heads and doubles as a stop for the forks preventing damage to the aluminium details on the tank.

Getting closer!

[Cortina]

Minor critical comment / observation : Now I know this is not a speed machine / the brakes are probably crap (at best) / but .........

I don't "like" to see the use of a solderless nipple on a front brake cable
Yes , they are easy to use / handy / etc etc .... but the only time it will ever fail , is when it is being used the hardest .... I'll let you make the rest up !

It's all looking good

cheers

Alan

[911hillclimber]

No problem Alan, and it had crossed my mind too.
The original design is far smaller and just the wire trapped with a simple pinch bolt, M4 in size with a square head...

The part I've used is a Lambretta gear change 'ferrule' if that's the term, brass with an M7 bolt.
The wire has been soldered for about 40mm and cut to length (general application new brake cable outer/inner) so the bolt is tight against the soldered part of the cable end.

[911hillclimber]

Frustrating time in the garage today and decided to walk away from it!

Finally bit the bullet today to set the timing etc, so got the piston to TDC and then backed it of by 3mm.
Set the points to 12 thou with the heel on the 'cam' (or rather the raised section welded to the flywheel hub that spans about 60 degrees of the rotation), and then placed the in-registered (ie no keyway) flywheel into place and gently pinched the crank nut up just to hold the wheel to the crank for now.

Fitted the original HT lead that I tested for continuity first and ensured the magneto end was in good contact with the magneto contact pad. The connection is by a sprung plunger.
Plug is shot blasted clean (and is the original I think) with a gap of about 20 thou.

Turned the engine over by the kick starter with the plug out and touching earth bolt to see if there is a spark.
Dead as anything can be, nothing.

Put a dvm between the plug lead and earth as Google says there should be a resistance of about 25K Ohmes, but nothing.

So, not sure the internal coil (original again) is duff as the wires all look good and clean etc.
I had hoped that something this simple would spring to life, but not so.

Just had a thought that the kill switch (a momentary switch pressed to kill ,ground, the system to stop the engine might be permanently in the kill position hence no spark...)
Best check that first by bye-passing it.

[Kneeslider]

Chin up Graham, you are doing great. Its a great achievement to have got this far with any project, let alone one with no spares support, and little in the way of information about how it goes together. The drudgery of making everything look bright and shiny is over, and now comes the more cerebral pursuit of making it all work harmoniously!

For me, this is the most rewarding bit. It's where I am now with my 356. Lots of people falter at this stage, but the difference between a non functioning but shiny pile of bits, and something that works is a subtle thing, which is only appreciated by the few, so enjoy this part of the process!

[911hillclimber]

Thanks!
I did take this on because the others I've done have all been easy in that parts and info, even workshop manuals, are all readily available, just spend money!
This bike is taking too long, I need to get it done so it does not become a chore.
Have a few other things going on in the garage too, so keep getting distracted..
Will have another go on Thursday, day out with the wife tomorrow in the Boxster.

[911hillclimber]

I now have a fat spark or 3 or more!

A French man on the www.terrot.org site in France gave me the right figures for the set-up and it all works.

Points set on the 'cam' @ 0.4mm / 16 thou
Piston raised to TDC and then 5mm linear piston travel retard, 5mm B TDC if you like.
Apparently, this engine is a bit sensitive, and 6mm is bad and 3mm is weak.

Sit the plug on a cylinder head bolt and spin the engine by the kick start and sparks nicely.
Will apply some petrol mix next week and see if it works....

Progress again.

[Ashley James]

Excellent news! Need more photos.

[911hillclimber]

Magneto flywheel on and tight. No keyway etc to locate it, so just a tight taper fit. Really hard to get it off ages ago, so hope all is well.



The output chain sprocket is nackered to say the least, and it sure is hard so the wear is a surprise. The rear sprocket is fine.
I have found a UK company close to me, Sprockets Unlimited, who sell the correct 1/2" pitch sprocket blanks that can be machined and the machined original let in and welded tight.
Not sure my lathe will handle that, need a 'Sladey' type, but I know a man who does this kind of thing!
Previous owner in France fixed the missing circlip by welding the sprocket on the gearbox shaft....

[Kneeslider]

I think that I tried to machine a sprocket ages ago, and it didn't go well. Far too hard. You would probably need to let down the hardness with heat, then machine and weld, then harden again. Bit of a faff.

Its time to make it run!

[911hillclimber]

Yes, rock hard as you would expect, but a lot of wear oddly.
I can't find a second hand one good or bad, so options are small!

I am racing this weekend, so weekend gone, but hope to fill the bowl with fuel and try it early next week....

[smallspeed]

If you get stuck "central grinding" near me Are good at this sort of thing - refaced lsd ramps, ground cranks, etc for me in the past