newbi question! yellow engine why?

[Mike Usiskin]

Hi all,

My 911T's engine is yellow, what does this mean? it's a US Spec 1972 coupe if that helps

kind regards

Mike

[Luke]

means it's a US spec T!

Yellow or Black = T
Green = E
Red = S /RS
Natural = R

[Lightweight_911]

The yellow shroud indicates that it's a 2.4 mfi 911T engine.

For the 'early' 911's engine shroud colours were as follows:

Non-S models up to & including '68 - black

'69-'71 T models - black

'69-'73 E models - green

'72-'73 mfi T models - yellow

All S models + 2.7RS - red

[Mike Usiskin]

Ahh, so it is what is says on the tin, hmm reaassuring it is! on a further point does anyone know anyone in SE London with a really good knowledge of early 911's, at the moment I'm taking her to GSC engineering in Horsham, who are brilliant by the way, it's just a bit of a hassle. Also when statingher up from cold, she's a bit smokey, is this normal and how smokey should she be?

sorry about all the questions but I know nothing about these things.

ttfn

Mike

[Mike Usiskin]

One last thing, can anyone recommend a good book, not haynes I can't stand the way they break things down, which I can trace faults with. I'm no mechanic though so reasonable simplicity is the key.

kind regards

ttfn

Mike

[Luke]

when you say smokey, is it white or blue smoke? white is fine, jsut condesation , blue not is fine as it's burnign oil.

Book wise Haynes is pretty useful, you might want to look at either of Wayne Dempsey's books for specific issues.

[Mike Usiskin]

Hi Luke,

thanks for the reply. She's burning white but it takes some time to clear and I've nothing to compare it to.

TTFN

Mike

[Nige]

As Luke says, probably just needs a good spanking on a long run

[Dyno Soar]

Hey Mike,

The Dempsey book is a must.. 101 Projects for your 911 and also the 911 engine rebuild book. Both re available on Amazon.

We had a little DDK meet last night in Cobham and we were all disscussing the smokey nature of 911 engines.. no need to worry if it clears up and by all accounts it only sounds like condensation anyway.



Alam

[Mike Usiskin]

Hey all,

Right ho, just been for a drive and there's a couple of things.

1; Firstly the white smoke I reported earlier does indeed go after a few miles so you guys must be right in thats it's condensation. Do they get more than say an MG due to the open grill over the engine?

2; When I fill her up with fuel, she leaks out of the front underside. This goes on untill it's dropped about a pint the it stops leaking. Am I over filling her? or does she have other more serious issues?

3; When she's warm and ideling (Sic) there is a kind of metalic "tink" sound from the rear. Sorry to be so vague! it sound like a backfire withouot any volume! make sense? Any ideas as to what it might be?

4; When downshifting say from 3rd to 2nd, she cuts out. it's like the revs don't hold, it's hard to discribe but it's like the idle is too low although if I reduce revs slowly withough downshifting she's doesn't tend to do it. for example changing down, 3rd to 2nd, clutch in she stalls before I can get the power on again in 2nd. Makes driving hard work since I'm having to start her up again at lights etc.

Apart from these things, she goes so so well, the wall of torque behind you is so intoxicating, but then you people all know that already!

Any thoughts on these questions would be great since i'm taking her to the mechanic and would like to be able to ask the right kind of questions!

kind regards

Mike

[Luke]

Mike,

1. No idea, but MG's tend to have a knack of filling with water every time it rains don't they?!?!

2. You got a problem! Take up the carpet in the front and check your fuel overflow pipe is connected and that it's not blocked. Also check you don't have a hole in your fuel tank and that there's nothing seeping out of where the fuel sender fits in.

3. Hard to diagnose, could just be expansion.

4. A few things can cause this: Firstly check your points and timing. Secondly if you've got MFI it could be the micro switch cut out (on the left hand side of the throttle linkage) is set too aggressively and is cutting in too early you need to download "Check, Measure Adjust" from the Pelican Parts website and follow the process detailed therein. My car used to do this and it turned out to be the timing.

Who are you taking the car to?

Luke

[Mike Usiskin]

Hi Luke,

Thanks for the reply!

1; Mine doesn''t though you do have to count to ten to wait for the acceleration!!!

2; where might I find the fuel overflow pipe and is it plain to see if it's connected? where does the fule sender fit in? (I've ordered dempsey's book by the way!)

3; expansion? please do tell

4; I'll look at the MFI ( I always knew MFI were trouble!, my kitchen's never really fitted)

I'm taking the car to GCS in Horsham Aka Carrera. Do you have any more local suggestions to me, I'm in SE London by the way.

Many thanks for taking the time.

regards

Mike

[Luke]

Mike,

2. Everythign will be obvious when you take up your carpet, it's all attatched to the fuel tank.

3. By expansion I jsut mean the heat exchangers, engine tine and general odds and sods expanding adn "tinking" when they do so. Sadlit's really hard to diagnose noises on the internet!

4. MFI is great, what ever you do don't swithc to carbs, you get more power, better throttle response and a better sound on MFI

I do al the work on my car myself, only garages I've ever used are JZ Machtech (nr hemel Hempstead) for a complression test, and Chris Watson (north London) for a clutch nut (which fell off when I was drving)

Luke

[domtoni]

Mike,

You can take a look at some of the stuff I posted (entitled MFI problems) along the way regarding the MFI in my car. Note all of the issues I had bwith my car are now pretty much resolved. The only issue is the interim time from starting until it is really warm. Then the engine can cut out.

Before I had the work done in my car,
Firstly, my car went ping when it idled. It does not any more. I replaced the relay.

Secondly, once I start the car, and it is warming up, it can cut out when I push in the clutch for a stop light or turning.
I am learning how to be gentle with the hand throttle to keep it running.

Once the motor gets good and warm, the engine idles at 900 to 1000, as it should.

Any idea what your car is doing with regards to emissions? My car requires 4% at idle, and (I believe) 8% at throttle (2500 rpm) ?
How is the throttle response between 2000 and 3500? Does it buck or does it pull like it should?

My car was screwed up due to stupid things I had done and due to the poor dearler service I got in USA.

A local Porsche shop straighted out my car, and I can recommend you follow:
- Check the emissions before doing anything else.

If you need to do anything else, you need to make sure everything is in order.
- make sure the valves are to spec.
- make sure the timing, ponts, leads, diszy cap, rotor are all in good working order or to spec
- make sure the throttle bodies are closed (the throttle bodies in my car were actually open and the bleed screws were shut)
- make sure the emissions are to spec

The car should idle at 900 rpm, and meet the emissions targets, and with that, pull like it should.

If you need anything else, send me a note.

I agree with Luke, the MFI is great. From my recent experience both here and in USA, these units have not been well serviced. When the MFI does not work, they are not very kind.

Dom