Went to take her out today and she wouldn't go.
When I get in the car I turn the key and in the position before starting I get a very rapid "ticker ticker ticker" noise which slowly dies over time. If I turn it further to start it's just silence, the ticking stops but the starter doesn't turn over.
Checked the battery and I'm getting 12.7v at the terminals.
Can't see any loose wires or anything disconnected. I've tried searching for similar issues but not found anything and the books are not helping.
What should I look at next?
Electrical/Starting problems.
I was going to say no but then when I went and had a look there is a square silver box on the left of the engine bay that has the fuel pipes running through it. There is a very clear label with flow written going left to right.
There are 2 wires attached one is ground loop and the other is connected to the coil.
There are 2 wires attached one is ground loop and the other is connected to the coil.
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Christoffer E
- DDK Newbie
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:01 am
Check your starter by putting the car in neutral gear (handbrake on for security), reach in in front of the right rear wheel with a flat screwdriver and short the terminals on the starter on top of the flywheel. If it turns - at least the starter is functional. While your down there check your ground cable fitted between the chassis and transmission.
Does the idiot-lights go dim/brighter when you turn the key to cranking position?Check any relays and wiring on the ignition switch. Could be a bad connection, broken wire or even moisture, perhaps.
Fuel pump is probably ok if it's ticking.
Good luck.
Does the idiot-lights go dim/brighter when you turn the key to cranking position?Check any relays and wiring on the ignition switch. Could be a bad connection, broken wire or even moisture, perhaps.
Fuel pump is probably ok if it's ticking.
Good luck.
1969 Porsche 912 Silver
It won't be the fuel pump if the engine isn't turning over...or is it ? Not sure from our post. 
Before my starter died for good, it was turning the engine over VERY slowly for a few weeks before; thought it was the battery going
.
I know it's laborious, but it's a case of going through each part of system in turn....
I HATE electrical probs !!!
You could get the AA/RAC out
( before you laugh, read on)....
My 66 912 just died and I bit the bullet and called them out - the guy spent about an hour and found it to be an aftermarket relay, hidden under a plate in the footwell, linked to a cut-off switch. He removed it and by-passed it. Hey presto !
Good luck
Before my starter died for good, it was turning the engine over VERY slowly for a few weeks before; thought it was the battery going
.I know it's laborious, but it's a case of going through each part of system in turn....
I HATE electrical probs !!!
You could get the AA/RAC out
( before you laugh, read on)....My 66 912 just died and I bit the bullet and called them out - the guy spent about an hour and found it to be an aftermarket relay, hidden under a plate in the footwell, linked to a cut-off switch. He removed it and by-passed it. Hey presto !
Good luck
Dreaming of driving a pre-A 356, actually commuting in a Cayman and for the weekend, a 911 'thing', with a Carrera 3 engine ( we think).
***
76 912E....gone
71 914 .....gone
66 912 ...sadly gone
...and lots of air cooled VWs and a few rusty, Italian tubs!
***
76 912E....gone
71 914 .....gone
66 912 ...sadly gone
...and lots of air cooled VWs and a few rusty, Italian tubs!
No, not even getting to the turning over stage.
It has an immobiliser so that may be relevant I suppose but if I don't 'mobilise' the car I don't even get the ticking.
The RAC did actually fix a problem I had on my previous car. It would just cut out for no obvious reason. Then sometime restart and sometimes not. After thinking we had cracked it a few times it was eventually found to be that the car was earthing itself through the distributor so no spark was getting to the engine.
It has an immobiliser so that may be relevant I suppose but if I don't 'mobilise' the car I don't even get the ticking.
The RAC did actually fix a problem I had on my previous car. It would just cut out for no obvious reason. Then sometime restart and sometimes not. After thinking we had cracked it a few times it was eventually found to be that the car was earthing itself through the distributor so no spark was getting to the engine.
Checked the the fuses and they are fine.
All other electrical systems are fine. One thing that is happening is that I don't see a dimming of the lights when I turn to the starting position.
I'll try out Chris suggestion tomorrow when I get the chance to get her out of the garage and I can see what I'm doing.
All other electrical systems are fine. One thing that is happening is that I don't see a dimming of the lights when I turn to the starting position.
I'll try out Chris suggestion tomorrow when I get the chance to get her out of the garage and I can see what I'm doing.
If you have jump leads try connecting up to another vehicle.
yes i have read you have 12 volts but that is not all that you need . you need to have the Amps to actually make things happen.
when you try to start a classic the starter can take anything from 9-11 volts to turn the engine over but will tend to draw upto about 40 amps.
if your battery is getting tied and only kicking out very few amps not a lot will happen.
easy scenario is:-
car needs starting.
you have 1 man making 12 volts him pushing alone will be very slow..
now you have 40 men all adding upto 12 volts.. (i know each man does not have the voltage of one) but combined they now have far more force behind them to make things happen.
so what i am trying to say do not rely on voltage alone. try jump starting
if that fails you will need to start at the begining.
you can try shorting the starter use a pieceof good thick wire or couple thinner twisted together . touch these on the terminal with the big ring terminal usually 13 mm nut. and the small terminal sometimes ring sometimes spade. you will need iginition on.starter should spin.. (make sure out of gear. safest to jack the car up and put on axle stands because if for some reason thewheels turn they will just spin in free air not run you over)
this doesn't really tell you the problem appart from if the starter is u/s..
next if you have a multi meter continuity check the wires from the ign switch to starter .
because you could have a faulty ign switch.. which is not putting juice across to crank. seen this many times..
hope this helpsand makes sence
Jon
yes i have read you have 12 volts but that is not all that you need . you need to have the Amps to actually make things happen.
when you try to start a classic the starter can take anything from 9-11 volts to turn the engine over but will tend to draw upto about 40 amps.
if your battery is getting tied and only kicking out very few amps not a lot will happen.
easy scenario is:-
car needs starting.
you have 1 man making 12 volts him pushing alone will be very slow..
now you have 40 men all adding upto 12 volts.. (i know each man does not have the voltage of one) but combined they now have far more force behind them to make things happen.
so what i am trying to say do not rely on voltage alone. try jump starting
if that fails you will need to start at the begining.
you can try shorting the starter use a pieceof good thick wire or couple thinner twisted together . touch these on the terminal with the big ring terminal usually 13 mm nut. and the small terminal sometimes ring sometimes spade. you will need iginition on.starter should spin.. (make sure out of gear. safest to jack the car up and put on axle stands because if for some reason thewheels turn they will just spin in free air not run you over)
this doesn't really tell you the problem appart from if the starter is u/s..
next if you have a multi meter continuity check the wires from the ign switch to starter .
because you could have a faulty ign switch.. which is not putting juice across to crank. seen this many times..
hope this helpsand makes sence
Jon
1960 356T5b original uk matching numbers car...
oh another trick you could try but requires 2 people is when one person tries to crank the car the other lay's under the car and hits the starter with a hammer. reason the starter pinion may have become stuck (due to build up of oil and grime) and the solinoid may be getting weak and force required to push the fork and pinion will be to much but the gentle shock of the hammer will help.
i have found that if this is the problem remove starter and pull out pinoin gear. pour in a little neat petrol release pinion. shake starter then tip upside down (pinion pointing to ground ) and leave to dry out for a while. thus flushing the starter out.
BUT REMEMBER ALLOW TO DRY OUT COMPLETELY PETROL OS FLAMABLE..
i have found that if this is the problem remove starter and pull out pinoin gear. pour in a little neat petrol release pinion. shake starter then tip upside down (pinion pointing to ground ) and leave to dry out for a while. thus flushing the starter out.
BUT REMEMBER ALLOW TO DRY OUT COMPLETELY PETROL OS FLAMABLE..
1960 356T5b original uk matching numbers car...
Yep, I agree with above, definately check the battery is pukka before jumping to any other conclusions. I have scratched my head for ages in the past with non starting issues and although the battery has read over 12 volts on the multi meter it has still ended up being kippered! My 912 does the exact same ticking when the battery gets too low to wind the engine but as soon as I strap a power pack onto it it starts right up.
Good luck
Good luck
Burgundy 69 912
Audi A4 1.8T sport avant
VW T25 magnum multivan
Audi A4 1.8T sport avant
VW T25 magnum multivan