Tipi's '69 LWB

Gary71 · Post by **Gary71** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:58 am

Morning,

Car is looking good!

The front mount isn't a 915 mount, that looks like this:

Hopefully someone with more knowledge will be able to help you out!

Has you car been modified to take a 911 engine at some point, hence the rear body mounts are in the wrong place for a 912 engine?

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:03 am

Hi, the body is not modified for 911 engine mounts, which are right in the rear corners of the engine bay. I checked the parts catalog and there seems to be quite many different front mounts. Maybe I got pre'68 mount. My box is 902/16 (closer ratios), that might also have something to do with difference in the mounts too, but very unlikely I think.

The 915 seems similar to mounts used on 901:s from '69 on.

I'll probably cut&weld&reinforceweld the mount I've got now, which is a pity, but I really wan't to drive this thing! Othervise it's soon June, as I'm a couple of weeks on business trip in May.

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:59 pm

I loaned a front mount from my friends '70 911T and it seems correct, but I had only a quick view. Tomorrow I'll put it in, so I'll know for sure. Thanks for your help. So it seems to me that I have SWB front mount in my '69 car, and that's causing all the head ache. I wonder if the Gear box is matching numbers?

Dakota · Post by **Dakota** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:45 pm

Hi Tipi
firstly don't hack anything around until you know exactly what the nature of your problem is , to the best of my knowledge the front mount, the transmission mount, does not differ between LWB and SWB cars as the transmission did not move in relation to the body , the trailing arms were made longer and the drive shafts worked through greater angles to take up the difference so the wheels moved further back in the body, but the body remained the same length overall, the front mount looks right to me and your friends 71 mount should bolt straight on if he has the original nine o one box like yours , the rear mounr arrangement differs in that later cars got more rubber mounts, six to the earlier four , looking at the picture of your engine it all looks as it should , interestingly the nine twelve was designed to take the round nine eleven mounts thats why the brackets welded into the engine bay have round holes in them, I think they abandoned this idea as the round mouts proved to ridgid for the four cylinder engine as it vibrated more than the six, anyhow I think you may have got something mixed up or the wrong way round like the little adaptor brackets at each end of the engine rear support bar, good luck yours Bill,

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Sat May 02, 2009 6:52 am

'70 mount did not work either, so unfortunately I had to cut&paste the one I had. But I was driving&loving it all day yesterday!

Bad photos from last night:

jury · Post by **jury** » Sat May 02, 2009 8:11 pm

Car looks great, nice job!

What paint (type/brand) did you use to paint the Gearbox and Tranny mounts?

Thanks
Chris

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Thu May 07, 2009 11:24 am

Just a regular rattle can spray. Maston was the brand, not sure if thats available in UK, but I don't think there's anything special about it.

ViR2 · Post by **ViR2** » Sun May 10, 2009 12:41 pm

Very nice 912 and great transformation!

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:03 am

The spare engine I have on it now was running on 3 cylinders at low rpm, and did not run very smoothly on any speed. So I quess some idle jet was blocked. Any way those Weber carbs were not mine so I changed them to original Solex 40 PII-4, as I happened to have two sets. Usually it has been the other way around, Solexs have been removed in favour of Webers on 912 engines

I ended up using the pair I restored for my VW engine back in 2002. The other pair that was on my 'official' engine was so filthy I left it waiting for rebuild. I managed to do the swap on saturday as kids were at their grandparents. Yesterday was awesome day +25°C sun shining, and porsche running on four cylinders

I think the sync might be a little off, as on engine braking it's igniting in the exhaust. Does anyone have good instructions how to adjust the carbs? There seems no connections for carbtune I have used successfully on Dell'ortos.

Webers OUT

Dirty Little SoleXXX

Original air cleaners lowered the intake noise substantially.

I tried the hub caps on, and I like 'em.

Tipi_dwl · Post by **Tipi_dwl** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 6:16 am

As a wedding chariot on our friends wedding last saturday.

old_skool · Post by **old_skool** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:50 am

Tipi_dwl wrote:day +25°C sun shining, and porsche running on four cylinders

I think the sync might be a little off, as on engine braking it's igniting in the exhaust. Does anyone have good instructions how to adjust the carbs?

carb adjustment
Check that the throttle linkage is assembled completely, and then unsnap the throttle linkage ball joint rod end at each carburetor throttle shaft-actuating arm.
On both carburetors, turn the idle speed screws out until they no longer touch the throttle shaft actuating arms.
Turn the idle speed screws back in until they just touch the throttle shaft actuating arms, then screw them in about half a turn more (This is simply a starting point for the idle speed adjustment).
Adjust the throttle linkage ball joint rod’s length such that they snap onto the throttle shaft actuating arms without changing the arm position and, hence, they won’t interfere with throttle shaft position.
Carefully close the idle mixture screws, and then back them out 1 1/2 turns as a starting point for adjustment.
Re-attach carburetor fuel lines.
Start the engine and warm it up
Unlock the rod ends from the carburetors.
Evenly adjust both idle screws until the tachometer reads 1100 RPM.
Check the balance between each carburetor by using A CARB BALANCING TOOL. If necessary, adjust one of the idle screws to even the vacuum between carburetors.
Adjust each cylinder by turning the corresponding idle mixture screw in until the engine RPM drops, then turn it out until it runs smoothly again. Listen carefully for a change in RPM and smoothness of operation. As the idle mixture screw is turned in, the mixture is leaned to the point of idle air/fuel starvation; that is why the engine will run roughly. Then, when the idle mixture screw is opened again, idle air/fuel flows into the intake allowing the cylinder to fire properly and the engine will run smoothly.
Return to the idle mixture screws and adjust them again as before. Listen carefully to the engine RPM and operating smoothness. Turn the idle mixture screw in until hearing the RPM drop, then back out the screw enough to cause RPM increase and smooth operation. Turn the idle mixture screw out an additional half turn for the final setting.
Evenly back the idle speed screws out to attain 850-950 RPM.
Check the balance again.
Check balance at 3000 RPM.