DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Good evening Gentlemen

It's been a while for me, far from ddk forum thanks to other projects and 911 enjoyment.

Now I'm back to your usual kindness and skills for my typical and unusual trouble situation.

Since this summer during holidays trip on Dolomiti with my 2,2T I noticed that with warm climate and/or queueing in traffic first/neutral/first clutching pedal tended to stay stuck floored for a little while before coming up during car start.

I checked cable adjustment and found that I had not the 20/25 mm freeplay of the pedal. I made all the set up following Porsche manual but if I set the pedal freeplay I'm not able to engage first and reverse without crunching gears when gearbox is warm.

I checked all things several times but nothing changed...or better...with the correct pedal freeplay and cold climate/cold gearbox all is ok but with warm gearbox crunching first/second and reverse are really bad so I need to adjust the nut at the rear end of clutch cable getting more cable tension in order to engage gears without crunching but with no more pedal freeplay and stressing again the cable/cable tube > stucking clutch pedal to the floor.

I tried also changing the cable with the old but still good cable I had on car before restoration...I hoped to solve because checking them side by side I saw that my current cable was a little bent in the point it goes in his tube so I bet that was the issue I was searching for...

Unfortunately not... it happened again.

I went deep on the Porsche manual procedure about the movement of the tube in his bracket (correct from high to mid high), the check of travel of fork (13 mm instead of 15mm but engaging gears is not an issue) and front cable yoke measure (manual says between 17 and 22mm and now I'm at 19mm): the issue of the stucking pedal still continue.

I have to add that my clutch diaphgram spring is a Sachs Sport (I choose it because it was the only spare part in alloy with a weight similar to original, Sachs as standard for 2,2 T nowadays provide a steel clutch diaphgram triple heavy than original alloy...) and this could be a cause for over-weakening the clutch cable... but since the end of restoration 4 years ago and 7k miles on the road up to now I had not this issue until this summer...

Thank you as usual for your suggestions and considerations
Max

Ok, I’ll start but with the caveat that I don’t know the 2.2 clutch too well. Could your pedal assembly be affecting things, roll pin broken, return spring failing, bushes need replacing?

Ian Comerford wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 7:51 am Ok, I’ll start but with the caveat that I don’t know the 2.2 clutch too well. Could your pedal assembly be affecting things, roll pin broken, return spring failing, bushes need replacing?

Thank you Ian: pedal assembly is in perfect condition in terms of spring and bronze bushes but is a good point "breaking my thought-pattern" to start on...

Ian Comerford wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 7:51 am Ok, I’ll start but with the caveat that I don’t know the 2.2 clutch too well. Could your pedal assembly be affecting things, roll pin broken, return spring failing, bushes need replacing?

deffo check this .. I had the same on my car and kept having to adjust the clutch cable, turns out it was actually the roll pin sheering until finally it let go

hot66 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 9:38 am

Ian Comerford wrote: ↑Fri Dec 09, 2022 7:51 am Ok, I’ll start but with the caveat that I don’t know the 2.2 clutch too well. Could your pedal assembly be affecting things, roll pin broken, return spring failing, bushes need replacing?

deffo check this .. I had the same on my car and kept having to adjust the clutch cable, turns out it was actually the roll pin sheering until finally it let go

Yes - definitely check this, there can be a LOT of free movement between the pedal and cross-shaft before the roll pin finally lets go ..........
Also, check the rear bulkhead where the solid tubing for the clutch cable comes through from the tunnel. If this is rusted or damaged, the tubing just pushes through into the tunnel when you press the clutch pedal, rather than operating the clutch.

JW

I think I might have had a similar issue many moons ago. The plastic "T" piece that moves the release arm was failing (one of the arms of the "T" was worn) and pushing itself inside the fork of the release arm. Not sure if that makes sense!

I assume this happened when hot due to the plastic becoming more "malleable". I replaced with the metal version.