DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I've had mine in the car for several years now, part of the group buy which several took up on DDK.
Occasionally, my 915 (rebuild by The Lakes Master just before fitting the /Rennshift) is hard/bulks to get from 3rd to 2nd and can be reluctant in other gears.
I suspect this is all down to fine adjustment.
The rod/box coupling is quite old, and has the bushes with no slot, just plain holes (automation parts I think) but free of excess play, all other bushes all near new. Thus, the box is weak or the adjustment, so suspect the latter.
Anyone had the same and did a close tweek of the coupling position fix it?

Have a badly damaged toe right now so can't drive but can tinker in the garage...hence this question.

SORTED, the Rennshift video is really good. Will have a go tomorrow!

Interesting - Do you have a link to the Rennshift video by any chance?


Gavin
‘73E -> 2.7mfi

Adjustment of rennshift shifter and it was at the top.
Made by JW Engineering themselves, really clear, well filmed, you can't go wrong.
My unit never came with instructions.
The method is simple but allows great precision, nesacery I think to get the best.
Hope to feel an improvement tomorrow.

Ditto Gav’s question: do you have the link to the video?

Here you are:
Re-set the start to 'zero'

https://youtu.be/8JDlBKERL3w

Just re-adjusted mine following the principles shown in the video.

I removed the passenger seat to get comfortable access to the coupling hole.

I found my neutral position (3rd/4th plane, horizontal of the H) was way out, nearly 5mm at the gearbox. So, used 2 x M10 new equal length bolts and screwed them into the housing, front and back after putting the box in Neutral and slacking the rod clamp ring.
With the bolts in equally the gear lever is true vertical and 'locked' there by the finger tight M10's.
The coupling (still tight to the box shaft, I checked it first) will move 2mm fore/aft in neutral, normal play in the box. The shift rod from the tower will not rotate as the 3rd/4th bias springs firmly hold it there.
So, set the mid neutral position 1mm from the tube of the coupling rod and 'marked' this with tape. (as video)
Rotated the coupling max anti clock, mark to one side of the slot in the tube, and max clock to the same side of the slot. This is a SMALL radial movement, about 3mm between marks on the tape.
This actually shows the neutral spot in MY box is +/-1mm fore/aft and +/- 1.5mm rotation. Another box may be different.

Rotated the coupling to mid distance of the 2 marks to align to the same side of the rod's slot.
Oh so carefully tightened the clamp ring making sure the fore/aft of neutral was matched to the tape and the mid distance marks on the tape of the coupling rotation. This is true neutral.

Slacken the M10 bolts and remove.
The stick will still be dead vertical to the tower and the gearbox in dead neutral.

Check you have all the gears by simply selecting them without any undue force through the H pattern and reverse. Mine seems ok.

Can't yet drive the car until my left big toe has recovered more from a trauma..., though today I can press the clutch pedal down ok.
Don't want to push my luck.

911hillclimber wrote:
Can't yet drive the car until my left big toe has recovered more from a trauma..., though today I can press the clutch pedal down ok.

Gout playing up then?

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Thank goodness not that!
hat condition from what I'm told by someone who had it.
No, clean knocked my left big toe nail off which leaves things a bit tender but nail bed all there still...

Been 8 days since, but healing well for an Old Man.

I set mine up by putting the box into 3rd on the 915, hence the selector is stuck in the vertical plane and by default so is the Rennshifter, then I just moved the gear stick forward to where I reckoned it should be when in third and clamped up the shifter. It took a couple of goes to get the 3-4 fore and aft position to get the lever right but it was a matter of a minutes. After that the box shifted perfectly. Seems a tad simpler

That was how I did mine initially as I had no instructions, but would be hard to take 2nd from 3rd.
Maybe it will be better now I've had another go.

Ditto the third gear method. Mines a Wevo but the principal is identcal. Some good written pdf instructions on the Wevo website which might be of interest here too.


Gavin
‘73E -> 2.7mfi

Drove my wife's Citigo today without pain, so will try the 911 tomorrow if the foot is ok with the much heavier pedal and see if this has improved things.
The 3rd gear method is simple but I ended up with neutral in the wrong spot but Mike might have micrometer eyes!

Forgot to mention that I have Weltmeister bushes in the shifter joint, so much less wobble in it, so that may be why it is easier to set up and not due to any laser vision I may or may not have

Me too, round holes and a tight pin.
Did you bother with the travel restriction M10 grub screws?