DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Is there a Euro source for valves that fit unmodified deep sixes?

On an unrelated note - is there a source for euro front indicator housing side reflectors?

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The valves you need are 'stubby' TR 415 - there are at least 2 varieties so you need to make sure you get the short/fat version:



There's a vague chance I might have some - will check later & report back.

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Lightweight_911 wrote:.

The valves you need are 'stubby' TR 415 - there are at least 2 varieties so you need to make sure you get the short/fat version:



There's a vague chance I might have some - will check later & report back.

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Hi Andy

I have read about this on Early S. From what people are saying on there these stubby ones are nigh on impossible to find but im not sure if its just a USA supply issue, or an issue that used to be a problem a few years ago that has now gone away.

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A quick search on ebay shows a number of possible sources that look as if they are the correct type - usually advertised as being for older Land Rovers :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-X-TR415-NE ... Sw0LlffqZH

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I've been through this (again) recently, with stubby valves like those eBay ones.

Summary: the ones I tried had a lip around them, like the ones in Andy's eBay link. The purpose being, obviously, that when pushed through the rim the lip helps them to stay in place. Deep 6s (and 7Rs) shape means they are thick where the valve goes through, so the valve is never going to protrude far enough for the lip to engage. Since this is clearly wrong, the tyre fitters I used were not happy. They could get it to seal and inflate, but until the pressure got up quite high, the fact you could gently push the valve in and deflate the tyre quite quickly did not make them feel it was being used as designed. You can debate the merit of that but I guess it means that below 10 or 15 psi the valve is not held in place, so maybe a bump could dislodge it. Of course your tyre is already pretty flat at that pressure.... There was no suggestion that it suddenly would leap out at 35psi.
But fitters not happy. Conversely they were happy that the tyres I was using (CN36s and CR6ZZs, not mixed on the same car...) were sufficiently smooth on the inside that they'd be fine with a decent tube. I went with that. So far, so good, with tubes.
Your mileage may vary. It is physically no problem to get a seal, but you need to be satisfied with it, and to be able to persuade your tyre fitter that it's OK.

As you know, one solution is to machine the rims. I didn't fancy that.

If you do find a stubby valve with a long neck and the locating lip further up (suitable for a thick rim), please do post details.

Cheers, Richard.

I have had tubes on my 1970 911 for almost 8 years without issue. Tires are Michelin tubless. There is debate about using tubes in tubeless tires because the inside of the carcase is not smooth. When I purchased my car it had an original Michelin on the spare which was hardly used but cracked through age. Moulded into the tire wall was "To be fitted with Tube Only" or similar wording. The inside of the carcase of this tire, designed for a tube, was as rough as a .......( supply your own wording).

My dad had a garage in the early 1960s when tires for tubes were still available. He used to put what I think was a talc like substance on the inside of the tire carcase. Presumably to help avoid fretting of the tube against the tire.
Recently, on my ST clone (tubeless tires) I fitted bolt-in valves
( available on ebay in different sizes to suit the valve hole diameter in the wheel). I think these would work on deep sixes too although not 'period correct'.

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Sorry - didn't manage to find the valves (yet) - think I might have given them to someone else ...

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I have tubes on my CR6ZZs with 7R's. They work perfectly. I have driven across Europe / round the Nurburgring with no issues. They are also ok on the terrible UK roads.

inaglasshouse wrote:
If you do find a stubby valve with a long neck and the locating lip further up (suitable for a thick rim), please do post details.

OK so heres my improvised solution to this issue.

I got some TR801HP 15mm valves (only found one UK supplier of these High Pressure truck valves). They have a decent sized gap between the base and the seating lip but its still nothing like enough. The key thing is that the base is REALLY fat and chunky. I used a new super sharp knife blade to trim the base down and increase the gap as needed. I also needed to cut a flat on one side of the base to get it to seat (or you could grind some metal out of the inside of the wheel but I opted against this). I then daubed the valve in black urathane sealant/glue that I had lying around from installing my ER bushes , not really sure if this is necessary to be honest but thought it wouldnt harm. Pulled it through and got a nice pop as it seated semi-properly. You are never going to achieve a 100% proper fitment due to the angled nature of the hole in the wheel (it is much deeper on one side than the other), but the lip seated around 60% of the valve. You really have to work it to get it pull through and you really have to work it with a screw driver to press back out, certainly not a case of a simple finger press, and thats with wet glue too. I think this is the best you will get with any valve.

Now I know that many in the Porsche family and big money wheel refurb places might be aghast at such rudimentary and "dangerous" modifications of parts in this way but Im old school and Id be quite happy to run these any day bearing in mind these are designed for running really high pressures they wont ever see on a 911

Cut


Glue


Align



Pull Through