torsion bars

Need some help with a technical problem - ask away and let's see if we can all help.

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Max911
DDK above all
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:21 am

torsion bars

Post by Max911 »

Good morning Gentlemen

Hope all of you is fine.

After first quarantine run my 911 T 2,2 my 1970 went down on rear left corner ground clearance... I scratched my bottom muffler inlet tube on ramp of my garage... never happened before... I was sorry to see that she seems a boat flooding... pneding on left side...

3 cm less from ride height (center wheel to wheel arch) left wheel vs right wheel.

The car was standing so when bought but on right side...I changed the right torsion bar with another good used and now it happened left side...

Is it something due to age of bar??

I tried to re align the car giving 1 external splin of preload to torsion bar but the result is that now she is unnatural high on left side.

Now: I'm going to buy 2 rear good used 23 mm original bars...new original Porsche bars have stellar prices but more than this I don't trust nowadays bad quality steel...

I considered also new bar "quickchange" from design911.co.uk but apart from expense they start from 24mm and I don't want to stiffer the car or to start incompatibilities with dampers, bushes and so on...

What are your precious considerations about?

thanks as usual
Max
911hillclimber
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Re: torsion bars

Post by 911hillclimber »

Bar failure is usually because one end (spring arm end at the rear) has corroded and the bar will snap.

A pair should be left and right (marked on one end, L R) and have a nice coating of red oxide colour paint right up to the splined bosses.

Fit with lots of axle wheel bearing grease on the splines and set the ride height from there (tedious job, well explained in the Haynes manual)

Rust - free bars essential!
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Gary71
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Re: torsion bars

Post by Gary71 »

‘Sagging’ isn’t usual. They are spring steel working well within limits.

This has been discussed before and I can’t remember what the end conclusion was, other than scary stories about the inner mount on the body for the torsion bar moving.

Snapping is pretty obvious and I guess you’d have noticed if the bar you took out of the other side was in two pieces...

I know none of that helps! I’ve had a snapped front bar (due to rust around the seal) and it’s definitely not sagging :)

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swb100
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Re: torsion bars

Post by swb100 »

Max it is quite tricky to get the correct spring plate angle if you are not used to setting them up. You need to be very methodical and use some method of checking your before and after angle. I have lots of pairs of 23mm bars . Best would be to give me a call in the workshop and I could talk you through it. 01483 280736, cheers, Glynn.
Max911
DDK above all
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:21 am

Re: torsion bars

Post by Max911 »

swb100 wrote:Max it is quite tricky to get the correct spring plate angle if you are not used to setting them up. You need to be very methodical and use some method of checking your before and after angle. I have lots of pairs of 23mm bars . Best would be to give me a call in the workshop and I could talk you through it. 01483 280736, cheers, Glynn.

Thanks Glynn really appreciated!

Thanks all of you for precious advices as ever.

I found in the meanwhile a good pair of rear torsion bars 23mm now I'm waiting to be delivered.

About setting I've always used "101 project manual", "Haynes" and official Porsche Workshop manual to set angle and height: my application was approved by local Porsche classic dealer when I got from them wheel alignment professionally and digitally checked (apart from obvious slight camber/caster adjustment)

As soon as I get my new bars I will update this post in case ringing Glynn

Thank you very much!
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