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To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:07 pm
by PeterK
As I (very slowly) make progress with my Targa, I'm removing previous bodges / patches, and when I've repaired a section, covering with primer and moving on. Once I've finished, I intend to remove all the primer around repairs and to re-treat where necessary, epoxy prime, seal and prep for top coats. I'm undecided how much of the apparently good top coats to remove from elsewhere, and so ........

To remove my temporary primer covering, I could use my Rust-Buster and assorted wire brushes (very slow !). Alternatively I could soda or grit blast (more toys :bounce: ). I know I could send the car away for dipping or blasting, but doing panel by panel at home will hopefully save a lot.

Benefits of blast tank - not only will it be easier and probably better at getting into nooks and crannies, I could also remove a lot of the 'good' paint as well to check underneath. As a 'good' top coat can be hiding a multitude of poor repairs and issues, this is probably a big plus point. I could also use it to clean up before patching, better ensuring a clean and rust free patch area.

Issuette - how do I prepare the bare metal for paint - if I wash the soda off, how much risk of flash rusting is there ?


Questions to the learned
1) Is a soda blaster worthwhile ? (£200 in round numbers for a soda / grit tank from MSB or similar, but then plus lots of aggregate) or should I persevere with rust-buster, wire brushes and flap wheels.
2) If so, how to avoid future paint adherence issues - what should I clear the residue off with, etc.
3) If I get a soda blaster, is it also worth grit blasting seams, etc to chase out rust (assuming not on flat panels due to the risk of distortion). I get that once I have used grit, I can't ever rely on the soda tank being clean enough to use on engine internals, etc.

Thx
Peter

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 4:52 pm
by 8bit-ash
What compressor have you got to do the job?

Also factor in for an air fed mask if you haven't got one. Mine set me back £400 but took a fair bit of shopping around to get everything I needed for that cost.

From my research i'd say avoid soda blasting, it leaves a residue which is very hard to get out completely and can cause paint issues. It also won't be man enough to get rid of the rust and won't touch undercoat.

I did a bit of research into getting the kit to blast my shell and in the end paid up for someone to do it (£650) and i'm glad I did. I'm still thinking of getting a little pot for small cleaning where I cant get a die grinder/wire brush into but I think i'd always leave a full car to the big guys.

After having my car blasted I did think if I ever did it again i'd have it dipped but I'm now back in the blasting camp.

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:19 pm
by PeterK
Thx
My compressor is 3hp, around 15cfm so should easily cope with the blaster, although an airfed mask would need what, about 6 or 7 cfm
As I'd be doing this outside (couldn't face the cleaning up if I did it inside the garage !), I assumed that a 'normal' paint mask would suffice.
Peter

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:00 pm
by RichardBTek
Blasting is too messy for me. I've had two cars dipped at Envirostrip and getting a completely clean rust free shell to work on is a major plus in my book. If you go down that route though be careful as sometimes the seams can bleed chemicals that might react unfavourably with the paint finish. You will also find other horrors that you didn't think you had! Once cleaned a good coat of Acid etch primer should keep the shell relatively well protected under normal dry conditions.
Richard

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:11 pm
by Nick Moss
Dipping is the only solution for me, although I use Envirostrip. I have had shells blasted with various medias including soda, which was as good as useless in removing anything that really needed to be removed, and the residue was terrible. Hard media blasting will not touch body or seam sealer, so you will certainly not get into the seams. After any stripping it is essential that the bare metal is protect as soon as possible, and I mean within hours. If transporting afterwards only do it in an enclosed trailer/truck and preferably in low humidity conditions. Store immediately in dry conditions.

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:05 pm
by PeterK
Thx guys

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:33 am
by 911hillclimber
I've tried DIY grit and soda inside and outside the garage.
The mess is unbelievable and get everywhere. You spend ages either protecting or cleaning up.
Soda is a weak solution imho, grit is great at its job but you need a good compressor for best effect and something to dry the compressed air.
A good mask is very very important to you living longer.

Personally, invest in sending the job out.
I too have used Envirostrip, good company.

Re: To home blast or not to blast

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 10:12 am
by PeterK
Time for a chat with Envirostrip at the NEC methinks :-)