To home blast or not to blast
Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:07 pm
As I (very slowly) make progress with my Targa, I'm removing previous bodges / patches, and when I've repaired a section, covering with primer and moving on. Once I've finished, I intend to remove all the primer around repairs and to re-treat where necessary, epoxy prime, seal and prep for top coats. I'm undecided how much of the apparently good top coats to remove from elsewhere, and so ........
To remove my temporary primer covering, I could use my Rust-Buster and assorted wire brushes (very slow !). Alternatively I could soda or grit blast (more toys
). I know I could send the car away for dipping or blasting, but doing panel by panel at home will hopefully save a lot.
Benefits of blast tank - not only will it be easier and probably better at getting into nooks and crannies, I could also remove a lot of the 'good' paint as well to check underneath. As a 'good' top coat can be hiding a multitude of poor repairs and issues, this is probably a big plus point. I could also use it to clean up before patching, better ensuring a clean and rust free patch area.
Issuette - how do I prepare the bare metal for paint - if I wash the soda off, how much risk of flash rusting is there ?
Questions to the learned
1) Is a soda blaster worthwhile ? (£200 in round numbers for a soda / grit tank from MSB or similar, but then plus lots of aggregate) or should I persevere with rust-buster, wire brushes and flap wheels.
2) If so, how to avoid future paint adherence issues - what should I clear the residue off with, etc.
3) If I get a soda blaster, is it also worth grit blasting seams, etc to chase out rust (assuming not on flat panels due to the risk of distortion). I get that once I have used grit, I can't ever rely on the soda tank being clean enough to use on engine internals, etc.
Thx
Peter
To remove my temporary primer covering, I could use my Rust-Buster and assorted wire brushes (very slow !). Alternatively I could soda or grit blast (more toys
Benefits of blast tank - not only will it be easier and probably better at getting into nooks and crannies, I could also remove a lot of the 'good' paint as well to check underneath. As a 'good' top coat can be hiding a multitude of poor repairs and issues, this is probably a big plus point. I could also use it to clean up before patching, better ensuring a clean and rust free patch area.
Issuette - how do I prepare the bare metal for paint - if I wash the soda off, how much risk of flash rusting is there ?
Questions to the learned
1) Is a soda blaster worthwhile ? (£200 in round numbers for a soda / grit tank from MSB or similar, but then plus lots of aggregate) or should I persevere with rust-buster, wire brushes and flap wheels.
2) If so, how to avoid future paint adherence issues - what should I clear the residue off with, etc.
3) If I get a soda blaster, is it also worth grit blasting seams, etc to chase out rust (assuming not on flat panels due to the risk of distortion). I get that once I have used grit, I can't ever rely on the soda tank being clean enough to use on engine internals, etc.
Thx
Peter