DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Having a few timing issues with the car, and as a process of elimination has anybody got a known good 2.4 dizzy that I could borrow for a few weeks?

TIA

Anybody?

I've got one Rich but there are two problems so I held back replying because,

1. I'm not certain it's 'known good'. I've never had cause to use it (yet) and by the sound of it you don't want to complicate matters further by 'unknowns'.

2. I don't want it used on any modified engine other than standard original

I 'think' I have an original E, S and RS dizzy but would need to check.
What are your thoughts?


Regards
Mike

210bhp wrote:I've got one Rich but there are two problems so I held back replying because,

1. I'm not certain it's 'known good'. I've never had cause to use it (yet) and by the sound of it you don't want to complicate matters further by 'unknowns'.

2. I don't want it used on any modified engine other than standard original

I 'think' I have an original E, S and RS dizzy but would need to check.
What are your thoughts?


Regards
Mike

Thanks Mike.

Number 2 rules it out then sir

Seriously, thanks for the offer but I need one that is "known good" as a process of eliminating a problem, any one from a 2.4, I'm led to believe will do.

Thanks again.

This may help or not! I've got a123ignition programmable one taken from my modified '73 2.4.
Maps, documentation etc all available - but might just be a lot of hassle.

PM me if it's any help.

Tony

What’s the problem rich ?

Tony wrote:This may help or not! I've got a123ignition programmable one taken from my modified '73 2.4.
Maps, documentation etc all available - but might just be a lot of hassle.

PM me if it's any help.

Tony

Thanks for the offer Tony, but again, it might just throw in another set of problems setting it up.

hot66 wrote:What’s the problem rich ?

Was at Ray Wests last week trying to dial in the MFI but he found it really difficult. At about 3000 - 3500 the timing marks jump all over the place and its really difficult to get the right AFR, car becomes lumpy, backfires.

We are just going through a process of elimination, ie dizzy, points, wires etc and then start looking at the pump etc.

abzadams wrote:

Tony wrote:This may help or not! I've got a123ignition programmable one taken from my modified '73 2.4.
Maps, documentation etc all available - but might just be a lot of hassle.

PM me if it's any help.

Tony

Thanks for the offer Tony, but again, it might just throw in another set of problems setting it up.

hot66 wrote:What’s the problem rich ?

Was at Ray Wests last week trying to dial in the MFI but he found it really difficult. At about 3000 - 3500 the timing marks jump all over the place and its really difficult to get the right AFR, car becomes lumpy, backfires.

We are just going through a process of elimination, ie dizzy, points, wires etc and then start looking at the pump etc.

Check the points gap, too small a gap can exhibit that behaviour. A tell tale would be the rev counter bouncing.

Could also be the CDI box and/or coil. Some can get sensitive to battery voltage in their old age. I can test yours for you.

Why not fit a CDI+ and lock the distributer advance and just use the CDI+ with the programmable advance curve?

Jonny Hart wrote:

abzadams wrote:

Tony wrote:This may help or not! I've got a123ignition programmable one taken from my modified '73 2.4.
Maps, documentation etc all available - but might just be a lot of hassle.

PM me if it's any help.

Tony

Thanks for the offer Tony, but again, it might just throw in another set of problems setting it up.

hot66 wrote:What’s the problem rich ?

Was at Ray Wests last week trying to dial in the MFI but he found it really difficult. At about 3000 - 3500 the timing marks jump all over the place and its really difficult to get the right AFR, car becomes lumpy, backfires.

We are just going through a process of elimination, ie dizzy, points, wires etc and then start looking at the pump etc.

Check the points gap, too small a gap can exhibit that behaviour. A tell tale would be the rev counter bouncing.

Could also be the CDI box and/or coil. Some can get sensitive to battery voltage in their old age. I can test yours for you.

Thanks for the tips, I can loan a couple of good CDI's for when I get to that on my list, point gap has been checked but not the coil yet.

jb wrote:Why not fit a CDI+ and lock the distributer advance and just use the CDI+ with the programmable advance curve?

If its not the CDI then there is no need to change!

Anybody with a dizzy?

abzadams wrote:

jb wrote:Why not fit a CDI+ and lock the distributer advance and just use the CDI+ with the programmable advance curve?

If its not the CDI then there is no need to change!

Anybody with a dizzy?

JB's point is that you suspect the timing curve, e.g. the weights and springs are perhaps gummed up or tired, hence not giving the correct response.

As long as the bearings in the distributor are ok, you can lock the weights and springs and provide the curve electronically with CDI+ and remove any doubt about the advance curve.

John lamb at clowne will be able to investigate and check dizzy for you and he has rollers as well as m/c to fully check? Hope this assists?

I recently had the same/similar problem on a 2.4e which had been fitted with a Bosch exchange distributor at some point, eventually I traced the fault to the lower bush in the shaft being loose in the distributor body and walking up the shaft at higher revs. The owner who prepares classic BMW race cars had been chasing the fault for a while!
The bush would drop back down as the revs decreased and hardly showed on dwell readings as for some reason it never showed up in the workshop only on road test.
A couple of hours with a retired tool maker and it was as good as new.
Might be worth checking.