DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Can anyone recommend a company that does driveshaft rebuilds? I seem to recalll a couple of mentions of someone in or around Coventry that did good work. My car is away having body issues addressed and it's time to get a move on with sorting out all the bits that need to go back on.

Thank you

Ian

Hi Ian, Dave Mac Props in Coventry. Call 02476 683239 ask for John as he's the man that knows his Porsche drive shafts/cv joints or info@davemacprops.co.uk. They are sorting my 914 cv joints and drive shafts at the moment.
(Btw they are very busy)

Regards

Matt

Thanks Matt, what are they doing to yours?

They are really simple to rebuild. I just bought the joints from Dave Mac and put them together in about an hour.

Ian Comerford wrote:Thanks Matt, what are they doing to yours?

i asked them to strip them down clean them off, check the shafts and check the joints for any signs of wear. John said the engineer is back of his hols tomorrow and will call me with the good/bad news. Fingers crossed

How did you get on? It appears that one of mine has play in it

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Just about managed to read that Chris!

Just done my new wheel bearings (front) on the 911, and re greased the 1972 CV's on my race Lola all with fresh greases specific for the job.
I used GKN CV grease and have for years on my tired CV's
Question to you is do these greases actually melt to a thick or thin fluid in use and thicken on cooling?

My CV's have always been liberally greased when I've taken them apart or off the cars and the grease never has 'settled' in one position in the gaiter or the CVs look as if the grease drains by gravity to the bottom of the joint when the car come to a stop and is left so allowing cooling.
Always found it hard to determine when I've injected/smeared enough grease on re-assembly after cleaning of a bearing or a CV. Never had a failure either over the decades, but might have been too sparing on occasions and wear has advanced.

Any comments on how much is right?

The non-melting greases tend to maintain their film thicknesses over a wider temperature range than more conventional greases with will melt and thin.

This will mean they are more likely to stay in place and help reduce wear, they are also more likely to deal with shock loads than conventional greases.

We started using these types of grease on high speed bearing pedestals around 20 years ago and they provided much better bearing life and reduced the need for maintenance quite significantly.

Bel-Ray make a CV grease of this type specifically for use in Baja type vehicles and it seems to work well.

I am sure that the conventional 'Kluber' style Moly Grease is OK but as the non-melting greases cost about the same money there doesn't seem to be a downside in using them.

I would think that 90 grammes should be enough for a SWB CV joint and may be 150 grammes for the larger joints but all you need to do is pack the joint rather than the gaiter.

Interesting Chris.
My CV grease is Motorsport type from Merlin.
Get it on your hands and a week of washing-up won't shift it, evil stuff.

I took my drive shafts over to Dave Mac Propshafts, recommended, l by a few on here, to be told they could only rebuild the wheel side. They couldn't do anything with the more complex overside?? He was going to check with the gaffer on Monday. Not the response I was expecting

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neilbardsley wrote:I took my drive shafts over to Dave Mac Propshafts, recommended, l by a few on here, to be told they could only rebuild the wheel side. They couldn't do anything with the more complex overside?? He was going to check with the gaffer on Monday. Not the response I was expecting
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Those Nadella shafts are not day-to-day business for a generic driveshaft place, I guess.
Time to see a specialist?
There are at least a couple (to my knowledge, doubtless there are others) who have plenty of experience rebuilding these.

If they can manage the wheel side I am surprised they can't do the entire shaft.

6 years ago when we failed to find any driveshaft specialist to take on these shafts, including Dave Mac, we decided to do them ourselves and have now rebuilt a significant number and have sent them all over the world particularly to the USA and one guy with a R spent 3 years trying to find a rebuilder before he sent them over.

We have re-manufactured the 'staking' washers as they were obsolete and the small rubber V seals which were also obsolete and the pin that provides the extra articulation which we have made from an H13 tool steel and precision ground.

We have sourced the correct spiders and buy the bearings directly from Nadella in Italy.

We have also re-manufactured the seal that sits on the transmission side as it is an AN section Wiper Seal and not the Square Section O ring as suggested in the US.





We have also rebuilt a significant number of 911R Shafts.



We can and do rebuild Lobro shafts as well but these are easy in comparison.